JBNeal

The link to that part number has dimensional information available, as does most of the Wix online catalog. My suggestion is to peruse the Rock Auto catalog for trucks of similar vintage to see what other manufacturers were using, as you might have a fuel bowl from an older Dodge, a newer Chevrolet, a smaller ford, etc. These filters will also have dimensional information that might save ya some $$$ by doing a little homework first

would this scenario be a candidate for the candle wax method?

some folks carry a 1" piece of scrap plywood, 12" x 36", in their tool box along with a trolley jack in a case, to avoid certain roadside problems... the board can be used to keep from rolling around in the mud when retrieving a spare tire from underneath the truck, then can be used as a pad to slide the jack under the axle...some folks might even be able to stow this gear under their removable seat, out of harm's way until needed

My '49 B-1-D-126 rides a LOT smoother than my '48 B-1-B-108...just like my '92 Dakota long bed rode a lot smoother than my '89 Dakota short bed...they all have a good ride, but longer wheelbase inherently has a less choppy feel

take a look at your distributor5 and oil pan drain plug3 while you're at it

If the valves have been rattling around, the valve seat angle becomes distorted and they will not seal properly... loose and oil will be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke. I hand lapped my valves with the suction cup on a stick and valve grind compound... it took awhile, but I developed a feel for when the valves and seats were in full contact

additional information - Troubleshooting Light Problems

Wix 33034 replacement gasket

VINs were established to clarify country of origin, manufacturer, powertrain, year of manufacture etc with the last 6 digits being vehicle serial number...VINs were not used prior to the late 60s, but data plates that contained manufacturer specific codes for powertrain, trim, paint etc as well as serial numbers were used...these trucks had a serial number and a model designation, if ya wanted more info you would have to get a build card...and for quite a few states, when assigning VINs became mandatory, these old trucks were assigned their engine number, not the serial number, so the VIN on the title could possibly not be found on the truck at all if the engine is swapped out...my '48 title has a T142 engine number, but the truck has had a Plymouth engine in it since '68 or so...so VIN kinda muddies up the water a bit whereas serial number is definitive

standardized VINs did not appear until the late 60s...serial numbers were stamped on the frame and ID tag located between the driver door hinges...the cab number was stamped on a tag located on the firewall...the ID tag included the model designation, serial number, and HP ratings, but nothing about trim package, transmissions, etc that would be deciphered from a VIN

additional information - Dodge Truck Registry Serial Number Decoder more additional information - Frame Serial Number Location

I have seen full battery voltage on cells that could not pass a load test...and if you have a fully charged battery that loses voltage while sitting disconnected for several days, then the battery is failing

additional information - Horn Repair Information more additional information - Horn Tone Baseline

transmissions...throttle return springs...paint colors...mirror arm strength...hole plugs...posting pictures...VIN usage...I have witnessed these subjects become arguments to minor amusement

Maybe your right side wheel cylinder is sticking

McMaster-Carr hole plugs would work, with a few dabs of RTV

someone with more dollars than sense would think this is a neat old truck...I would be picking it apart for all of its inaccuracies...and as Dad is fond of saying, "for that kind of money, it better have a spare tire"

possible answer

Flatheads left the plant with aluminum paint but that wasn't meant to be there forever...many equipment manufacturers assembled components then applied paint to the whole thing, wiring included sometimes, then added parts from other sources that may have been painted another color (like black). Flatheads left the engine factory sometimes in bulk on flatbed trucks or in crates, so not all of the engine components were added to limit any damage in transit. My '49 has some aluminum paint visible on the intake manifold, but the thermal expansion of the exhaust manifold just let's the paint flake off. There are special coatings available so that you can give your engine compartment a more attractive appearance, some folks go plain to keep the manifolds from rusting, others go fancy to accentuate them manifolds...choose wisely

additional information - Engine Color

If it is too loose after installation, tap the end on the horn of an anvil to open up the diameter...or use a large crescent wrench

Reactions and Editor Uploading Improvements look interesting

My '48 has bound up, I'm thinking that it spun a bearing...it's like a wedge between the crank and rod since the alignment tab may have slipped out of the notch...a few months ago I recalled seeing something when I opened up the engine back in '96, but I didn't realize what I was looking at until reading something about it on the HAMB...better late than never

Pusher fans are usually used to address packaging constraints in automotive applications as road debris can really do a number on the blades...puller fans do much better when coupled with a properly formed shroud

You could get replacement springs and have them tested for a comparison... I have read that if there is any damage to the spring wire surface, then the springs should be replaced regardless of how much compression force they can withstand. The reasoning was that oxidation from moisture inside the valve chambers (i.e. ambient humidity and condensation), as well as any acidic issues with sludge formations, damages the surface of the spring wire, which can cause weakness in the spring or eventual failure. I recall the surfaces of the springs in the '48 and '49 were not smooth compared with the NORS springs I found on eBay several years ago, and made a mental note to address that. As for the shims, I think they are used to keep the valves from "floating" above the tappets at high rpms by assisting in adding more compression to the spring, a kind of pre-load for lack of a better term