JBNeal

check your battery cables

Merle is correct on fan blade design as I had this demonstrated to me awhile back at an antique fan restoration operation in Ft. Worth. I had a 1950s Emerson 12" oscillating fan that needed a new cord and I wanted them to get the blades off because I could not. They gave me the nickel tour of what they had worked on awaiting customer pickup/shipment, and I was amazed at how quiet these antique fans of all sizes were...the most impressive was the 2-blade pedestal fan whose mfg also designed airplane propellers during the 30s and 40s...when that thing was wound up, it was like standing in an Arctic blast with very little noise...I did not have a decibel meter, but we could have a normal conversation with that thing on. The owner lamented that this attention to detail began to disappear in the late 60s with the advent of cheaper made asian copies that would replace these relics...he said that almost all fans now are noisemakers that move a fraction of the air that the quiet American made fans could. This point was accentuated a few weeks later when I stopped at a roadside burger shack and noticed the 6" noisemaker by the cash register not moving hardly any air on that hot day...when nobody was looking, I turned it off to see that the fan blades were almost flat

I'm glad to hear that your truck now runs as good as it looks...great job! Maybe on your return trip, you could bring your own PPE: face shield, safety glasses, earplugs...that way ya might have a better chance at taking a look at the operation cuz of your professional approach to machining

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additional information - Radiator Cap Replacements

I highly recommend going through the entire original brake system as a cheap insurance policy. Those parts are susceptible to rust that can cause leaks at the master cylinder and wheel cylinders, and the hard lines can rupture without warning. The rubber lines will definitely need replacing, and the brake shoe linings may certainly delaminate from the shoes as the bonding agent does not age well. I had my master and wheel cylinders sleeved as the bores were pitted and rebuild kits would still leak after honing. It was expensive but it was the only option I had 15-20 yrs ago as those parts were no longer available at parts stores and cheap replacements were not available online. I replaced all of my hard lines with new tubing that had coatings that were not as susceptible to rust as the original lines. With the entire brake system replaced, I upgraded to DOT 5 fluid which does not absorb moisture like DOT 3 does. Over 10 yrs later, those 2 trucks still have solid brakes. I also recommend finding a shop manual and studying it well...reprints are available online, and with that knowledge, you can do most repairs to specifications on that fine buggy ya got thar

Marvel Mystery Oil will work wonders...I used MMO recently to revive a 30yr old Troy Bilt tiller...among other things, its throttle control cable was frozen; I used an old squirt can to trickle MMO over the entire cable sheath length and gave it a day to soak in...the next day, the cable broke free and worked nicely with no squeaks...the shop manual mentions applying light oil to the cable and pivot points for its control function periodically, to keep things moving freely, so I have been using MMO from a squirt can once a year for this purpose...as far as spiffing them up, MMO might be a problem as paint does not stick to it, so after soaking the cable sheath in MMO to free up the cable, it'll need to be cleaned off with lacquer thinner thoroughly for any coating to adhere properly...after coatings have cured, then the lubricant of choice can be applied to the cable, but do not be surprised if the sheath finish delaminates a little where it contacts the lubricant

Roberts rad.cap DCM rad.cap Bernbaum rad.cap VPW cooling parts

Judging from the line, that trunk might have an ice chest full of pop and baloney sammiches

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 Pilot-House at the cattle auction

Lucas Jackson knows the importance of routine maintenance

Hey Merle: While looking for something else, I found this...how does the engine look these days? Any rust bleed or staining? Just curious I reckon, I've painted several engines and engine parts with different primers, using rattle can on sheet metal and a foam brush on cast iron and I have found that cleaning and preparation before the top coat make a big difference on paint quality over time.

VINTAGEPIC: McCoy's Building Supply sent out a flyer to celebrate their anniversary, and I was able to snag a few totes that had a B-1or2 Pilot-House work truck on it

additional information - Flathead Coolant Flush

additional information - Troubleshooting Hard Hot Starting Problems

additional information - Modified Wiring Diagram with Headlight Relays + Turn Signals

additional information - Shock Absorber Information

Carburetor float retainer replacement made easy

You may be able to approximate the professional tool with something more economical

I had my wheel cylinders sleeved years ago but have had a spongy brake pedal for years on the '49 1-ton...after several years of use, I noticed dust caked around the bleeder screws; I suspect the sealing tip is pitted and not sealing, leading to a very slow leak...it's been on the to-do list, among other things

Check your dimensions for what will fit in your housing: Wix 51010 Wix 51011 Wix 51071 Wix 51080 additional information - Flathead Oil Filters

That one looks like it was made in China, dunno how good the quality is

additional information - Troubleshooting Hard Hot Starting Problems

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Have ya looked into swapping the radio guts for a solid state upgrade, also getting a newer size-appropriate speaker? That may solve a few problems as well as allow for some upgrades like USB or MP3 access