JBNeal

Perhaps you could start your own build thread since you want to address multiple issues beyond the original scope of this thread... front seals rear seals

Those look thicker than the ones I've seen...

duals have a different offset than singles

I cannot defend my fellow countrymen and their driving habits as I have seen quite a few lousy examples on a regular basis all over the state. In my time in West TX, it was understood to steer clear of anyone with NM plates cuz they had a tendency to just wander around a bit and forget about traffic laws in general. Just today, south of Waco, I was travelling along several paved back roads and had to make left turns onto other roads, having to pass a truck that I was trailing at 2 separate intersections cuz one guy decided to pause to look at something for sale in a corner yard, and the other much older guy took the turn so wide (and slow) that he had to stop before turning into the ditch...road construction over every other hill, leadfoots around every corner, and yankees wandering around just a-gawkin' at us simple folk and our backwards ways...it's no wonder that visitors think drivers are bad here, cuz there are A BUNCH of'm that are just THE WORST

Terrill Machine might be an option for engine parts...no website, but you can call or email...I drove up to DeLeon back in '04 on a rain day to visit Feltz's operation...parts were basically in most of his house just outside of town at that point, not a storefront business per se but he is very knowledgeable... terrillmachine@yahoo.com 254-893-2610

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As far as I know, Fluid Drive was offered on 1-tons, but higher rated trucks had conventional dry clutch configurations. I believe if ya try to overload the coupling with a stronger engine, the coupling will slip and you'll just be trying to jockey a smelly noisemaker rather than piloting a workhorse...if you need more power, a better arrangement might be to upgrade the truck with a 318 + TorqueFlite, but that's easier said than done...maybe the engine modifications are the cheapest route to more power, as well as upgrading to taller tires, possibly respecting the load rating on the data plate

I signed up on FB to meet girls...I mean, that's why zuckerberg put that devilish contraption together in the 1st place...amiright?? although these days I use it as a portal to play li'l old ladies on the Scrabble...it's a hoot

There should be an o-ring between the tank and the fuel level sending unit...

RIP

A grand is kinda high for my taste for such a chewed up buggy, unless that glove box had a valid title and a bag with 500 bucks in it

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Black can be semi-gloss black...the unpainted parts were actually originally plated (cadmium, perhaps), but since they are unseen adjusters / linkages, ya might can coat them however you like, rattle-can zinc plate or painted body color or DIY plating, as long as they can function without binding...when it comes to the hidden parts, I reckon you can do as you please and let the nitpickers out themselves when you're out enjoying your buggy...I recall seeing an engine fan painted black with 3 silver stripes on each blade years ago and thought it was odd until the engine was revved up, then realized this was something done on warplane propellers of that era and thought it was a nice touch

How much oil is in the crankcase? Kinda sounds like piston rings are not sealing well, allowing blow-by on expansion after ignition...you can check by rigging up a hose on the draft tube and running it up towards the carburetor...rev up the engine from the carb linkage while under the hood and you can easily tell what's blowing out of the draft tube, tho ya might want to aim that hose into a coffee can for safety

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I'm a little confused as to what oiling mods need to be made other than cross-drilling the crankshaft...care to elaborate?