Adam H P15 D30

In short the HEI module is the way to go Your conversion thread and Thrashingcows should be available in the archives. I used it when I did mine Adam

It is on this site also but the pictures fell victim to the photobucket scandal but the write up here is very good. If you google it, the photos are still there. There is another thread here right now with the link. Adam

I would also add that the Landon HEI is a better choice because you can take full advantage of the powerful spark the HEI can deliver. Being that there is almost no primary resistance needed in an HEI system, you can safely open the plug gap to .050 or more and kick up the secondary voltage to 50kv + and not worry about heat or coil saturation. The cap is where the difference is between the slant 6 / HEI mod and an actual HEI (Tom's). Though the slant 6 / HEI is capable of the same high voltage, the distributor cap and rotor were never designed to handle that kind of spark energy and may suffer a shorter life span, Tom's HEI is an HEI cap designed for the high secondary voltage. I kept my plug gap at .040 with my slant 6 / HEI set up. You MUST use the square HEI coil to do this as the round coil would quickly overheat. I know I'm splitting hairs here and probably dragging this a little off topic, apologies.... Adam EDIT: You could also use the points to trigger an HEI and point gap wouldn't matter anymore and the points would never burn up, you would only replace them when the wear block wears down. It's a little involved electronically to make is work correctly but doable. The HEI would trigger when the points closed and therefore rotor phasing would be off but a very simple electronic inverter would fix it. I built one inside my old voltage regulator to hide it. HEI Schematic.pdf Resistor is a 4.7 k-ohm 1/2 watt or higher wattage Transistor is a 2n2222a NPN

Pertronix makes a 6v + or - ground module. I don't care for them because they are temperamental to primary coil resistance and RF noise. Also when one of their modules takes a cr@p, you are stuck until another module is shipped out. I prefer off the shelf parts if you are driving it, if it's a fairground / trailer queen it probably isn't an issue. Someone will chime in saying they NEVER fail but everything fails and Mr. Murphy will ensure it fails at the worst time and place. The slant 6 distributor mod is pretty easy. The write up here is excellent and the pictures are still available if you google them. basically you have to turn the distributor housing down .030 to fit in the block (I used a file and drill press) and swap over the drive and advance weights from the flathead distributor. While you're at it, google using a GM HEI module and coil to trigger it for reliability and a really hot spark with no primary coil resistance limitations like Pertronix and the factory Mopar control unit, don't forget to open your spark plug gap. Also, if something does go wrong, the module is $20.00 and the trigger is $20.00 available at any parts house. Tom Langdon sells a drop in, ready to run HEI for our engines for about $200.00. It's not an integrated cap and coil so it doesn't look like cr@p and uses off the shelf parts for a GM V6. FWIW, Adam

For $65.00 search slant 6 distributor upgrade. Adam

I totally agree with this approach. If I ever have to go through my 230, I will install a set of 218 (longer) rods and have custom 3 ring pistons made. Cost isn't that much higher, you get the benefits of a 3 ring piston, longer rod, and ability to choose your total height. With the piston speeds of these long stroke engines, the benefits are real.... I would expect your compression to be closer to 8:1 with your pistons, but that's just a guess. I am not sure if the stock pistons even come to the top of the deck? Adam

They were out in the late 70's. My point is if the OP changes to a Motorcraft (or equivalent) spread bore 2bbl, the car would run much better. The VV's were tempermental at best and basically garbage. Also finding someone with the knowledge and tools to set one up would be difficult. Many VV's hit my junk pile in years past... Getting a little off topic here but it probably has a severely retarded timing chain set in it. Change to an earlier timing chain and gears would wake it up. Adam

Does that have the VV carb? great looking car by the way

The crest? My D29 has the crest, wish I had a better picture of it.

@JOHN EDGE A couple of questions, I ordered the same carbs and air cleaners last week from Tom. Going on a mostly stock 230 (slightly milled head .040; .030 on the pistons; Tube headers and Intake; Will not be using the 1bbl to 2bbl adapters) 1. How easy was the tuning after the initial install? 2. Reasons for the electric fuel pump? (clearance?) 3. What trans and rear axle ratio are you running? 4. What is the oil separator for on the firewall? 5. Your exhaust system? (looks like Fentons??) It looks like you could eat off that engine, nice job!!! Thank you in advance... Adam

Change the cluster bulbs Swap the battery cables Windows - site above my reply Gyro trans - I ran an R10 years ago with 6v solenoids on 12v for a long time without problems. Not sure on your transmission solenoids. Do they make 12v solenoids for the Gyro? Maybe on the site above (they do list R10 solenoids) You have an extended bell 331 so transmission swaps are limited. Contact Wayfarer on this site if you wish to go that route. On a side note, if he has a way to adapt a TF727 to a long bell 331, the performance would be significantly improved over the Gyro that's in it now. Don't kid yourself, a trans swap is a major undertaking, I would look into 12v solenoids first, if available, run yours on 12v and see if they last. Adam

***MAKE SURE YOUR WIRING HARNESS IS IN GOOD SHAPE*** Or replace it! Change light bulbs and headlamps to 12v units Add a Runtz resistor to fuel guage (though I've heard it will run fine on 12v) Change heater motor to 12v (I used a 60's Dart) Swap polarity on battery cables Install 12v alt (you're planning to anyway) Install 12v starter relay (6v starter is fine as long as you don't crank on it for 10 minutes) Install 12v horn relay, horns don't care Install ballast resistor to coil and reverse coil wires If that car has power windows or power seats (not sure) it will get more complicated. I probably forgot something but it's not difficult.

Thank you Don, I remember that thread now. I just can't imagine why he kept the the 6v pos ground system in addition to a 12v neg ground system adding that much complexity. Keeping the car stock shouldn't have been a concern at that point with all the other mods he did. But we are getting off topic to the OP's question, so I guess the answer to him is yes and I got the benefit of learning something new today Adam

Ok, I get it... it can be done but that brings up the most important question, why? Why would you have 2 systems running especially with opposite polarity? Unless you are into overly complex systems? Still cant understand how it is possible but obviously it is. Adam

I would just convert the car to 12v. With the setup you are proposing you would have to change to negative ground anyway, might as well go to 12v and complete the conversion. If the wiring and switches are in good shape, 12v would run through it all just fine Adam

Agreed. Tappet wrenches are a must

Unfortunately I have headers and you have to adjust them cold. Space is really tight. Adam

Here's one I'm building now. Haven't decided what the intake will look like yet but it will be 2 Carter/Weber progressive 2bbls from Tom Langdon. Can't beat the coolness factor

Yeah, it's hot and messy

Manual only lists .008 I and .010 E hot. I set mine at .010 Intake and .012 Exhaust cold and never looked at them again. Adam

No other mods needed after installing disc brakes. With your master cylinder up high, you probably won't even need residual pressure valves at least on the front. Maybe a combination valve but then again, maybe not.... Adam

Just to be clear, I have since gone to a dual master cylinder for safety reasons. I did the gut the old master cylinder and run a longer rod through it method, works fine. As I was happy with the performance of the old master so I kept the same bore size. This is all on my 49, my 47 is a completely different animal... FWIW, Adam

A must in big city traffic, probably not but neither are seat belts. I do drive my 49 a lot. commute, rain, traffic, etc. After a few shoulder bail outs during sudden 70 to 10 stops, I converted @JOHN EDGE I was able to use my stock 15" wheels with rustyhope's disc brakes without problems. Stock master worked fine after removing the internal residual pressure valve and adding a 2lb front and 10lb rear in line. Adam

Unless you drive in big city traffic....

They will siphon the new road $$$ off like they did to the other road taxes that are currently being charged at the pump so the roads will not get any better but we get to enjoy the honored distinction of paying the highest (by far) fuel taxes in the country. The only reason your cost per mile has dropped is your fuel mileage has doubled. Some of us need to drive TRUCKS. I think the registration goes up an average of ~$100.00, might be mistaken though. The current road taxes should repair the roads, not get diverted.... Electric and Hybrid cars should pay the additional taxes based on mileage. To use their terms, "their fair share." You are braver than me, I'm afraid of plugging it into a spreadsheet. I already know we are getting ripped off. It WILL be repealed. My God, California sucks... Adam