BobT-47P15

Far as I know, all the "early 49s" are still P15. The newer body style (later 49s) are P17 and P18. Here's the "late 49" model page from the Service Manual. The top two on the left are the 4 door sedan and club coupe.....P18 in both Deluxe and Spec. Deluxe. The convertible and woody wagon on left are P18 and come in Special Deluxe only. On the right the two door (fastback) sedan and three passenger (business) coupe are P17, and are only in the Deluxe line. The all metal suburban wagon is a P17 in Deluxe only. So, a 49 model can be either a P17 or a P18. 1950s are either a P19 or P20.

Not all P15s came with that hood brace. Not sure which years didn't have it. Mine and Don C's happened to come with them. And they do have the part of the hinge with holes provided to attach the brace. The others do not have that. The hood edge, where the captive nuts are located can break and may need to be welded.

Old tow trucks are pretty cool............you can get all the winches and stuff working and use it to bring the Dodge home if it conks out. Won't hafta call AAA.

Very Innteresting........... What will they think of next??

Can't you use a reducer (like Runtz) to reduce power at the gauge? Heres a link to some old posts on the topic.........read thru them to see if any apply to your situation........................ http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=1045&highlight=reduce+power+gauge

Is there anything under the car being held up by those bolts?? Edge of the rocker panel or some such........seems kinda odd they were put in from underneath and are thru the rubber sill/step plate. How does the rear door fit... could they have been stops to keep it from rattling or something?

Bill.....I didn't realize the Chevy float works different from Mopar.....so I can see that won't be workable then. I have a good Plymouth float, new a few years ago. Ed, if you can measure a tank it would be helpful. The O'Reilly book lists the tanks by measurement, as well as by vehicle they fit. Saw a couple O'Reilly reps at a car show near here in October, they had brochures about gas tanks. That's why I went by the store to check further. It would be a really good thing if someone could find a replacement tank for our old Mopars that resembles the original in construction and has the float hole and filler neck in needed positions. I wouldn't care what brand vehicle it came from if it was useable. And.....another question......did the shape and layout of tanks change much from the 40s up thru the mid 50s?

From Tanks, Inc............$230 Kinda homely with that smooth exterior.............

From that Truck and Car Shop catalog.........a gas tank for 41-48 Chevy.... $150...... The Chevy tank sending unit greatly resembles a P15 item......$35

Does anyone have handy the dimensions of a P15 gas tank (length, width and depth)? I was looking this morning at a catalog of replacement gas tanks at O'Reilly Auto. They have some listed (and have pictures) for various makes of cars - but, of course, nothing old as late 40s. I can't measure mine since the car isn't here.....and the parts and repair manuals didn't give dimensions.......only said capacity 17 gallons. Some new tanks might be useable with slight remodeling for placement of center float hole and revising the filler neck a bit. Tank from a 47 coupe............. Here's one on their list that might work.........30 1/4 x 23 1/2 x 7 1/2......17 GAL...don't know what specific vehicle it fits. Was just guessing while at the store. Maybe not as long. COST $314.99

I looked on "Shopzilla" shopping site for clocks with roman numerals. They all used the same upside down numerals at the bottom. Guess we gotta do as the Romans do.

And a different all par article about 49-52 era Chrysler products. http://www.allpar.com/history/chrysler-years/1949-1952.html

Here's a story on Chrysler of Canada on AllPar site..........have to scroll down just a bit to get to the article.....authored by some familiar name people. http://www.allpar.com/world/canada.html Here's one tidbit of info.....and there are many more........"From 1946-1950, the Plymouth DeLuxe was modified to become the Dodge Kingsway, while the Special Deluxe became the Regent"

Guess that's 'cause they're on the bottom........ Just went to look........same deal on a clock in our bathroom.

Glad you now have that figured out. I didn't know if you had tried to put the trim on the 4 door or were placing it not quite correctly. .....it IS sort of an optical illusion. Well, anyway.......happy to be of help. Your car is looking good, like a P15 should. (Kinda sounds like an old time commercial doesn't it?)

Got it........thanks, Tim.

I've met three on that list, along with several others.....all good guys, who have much knowledge of the old Mopars and are willing to share. Have really enjoyed my time hanging out here on the forum. Look forward to more good times ahead. Bob P.S. Just so I could retain the list for a while if it goes away......I highlighted the post, copied it, and pasted it into an email to myself. Just passing this on in case anyone else is interested in saving it.

My parts manual shows the rocker mouldings (1149-182 for R) and (1149-183 for L) are used on all body styles...... This is how the trim mounts on a four door......stops before the rear fender, and does not go completely onto the front fender. A two door sedan..........trim fits the same way..........

I have a pair of rocker trim for a P15........they are 72" long and 2 9/16" wide, outside edge to outside edge.

Found these definitions on a website, from a British writer........ A "fog lamp" by definition throws a wide broadcast light output (flood light) which is intended to light a wide patch of road close to the car. These lamps should be mounted fairly low on the front of the car and be pointed slightly downward so they light the road full width close at hand and produce minimal reflected glare in fog. A fog lamp may be mounted below the front bumper for best effect (although may be mounted above the bumper as well). Lenses may be clear or amber and are usually fluted to break up the beam in random directions to reduce reflected glare. Some countries require a rear mounted fog lamp to be used to accent your visibility for a driver following your car in dense fog, in which case the lens may be red. Use of a clear lens in a front fog lamp is generally legal and common in older classic cars, but the clear lens can lead to identity confusion with other types of lamps. A "driving lamp" has a slightly broader definition, most often referring to auxiliary headlights. Casual reference to any auxiliary front lamp as a driving lamp is erroneous. A fog lamp is definitely not a driving lamp. A "driving lamp" is used to see farther down the road in non-foggy conditions. An auxiliary "driving lamp" may be large or small, round or rectangular, and may have almost any mounting configuration (usually not below the bumper). They should almost always have a clear (not colored) lens, although there can be a wide variety of fluting or plain glass or a combination of flutes and plain glass it a single lamp. Driving lamps commonly have a light throw pattern similar to headlights, although the aux lamps may be more concentrated in the forward direction for better illumination farther down the road and less to the sides. Driving lights like headlights are usually mounted above the bumper to be aimed straight forward with the top of the beam perfectly level for long distance illumination. In most government jurisdictions it is required by law that driving lamps be wired to or triggered by the headlight high beam circuit, so than when you dip your headlights for an oncoming driver the driving lights will go out. This provision of the law is often not enforced, as the cops are usually happy if you just have at least two headlights that actually work. Now with the descriptions clearly understood, it is easy to tell the difference between a fog light and a driving light. Apply power and shine the light on a wall. A fog lamp will illuminate a wide area including somewhat off to the sides and may appear to be not terribly bright, as the light is widely dispersed. A driving lamp will have a light pattern similar to the common headlights, mostly forward, flat on top, not much to the bottom, and may (or may not) be distinctly asymmetrical for RHD or LHD. Single beam driving lamps are less likely to be asymmetrical. A spotlamp will have a pencil beam which will illuminate an area on the wall not much larger than the lamp itself. Link to a dissertation on the subject from another writer.............http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html

I think the yellow or amber lenses were considered "fog" lights back in the day..... perhaps because the yellow was supposed to penetrate the fog better. The clear ones were more likely just "driving" lights. Not totally sure of this however........**edit**there are exceptions according to the articles upcoming.**

In looking thru eBay stuff, I noticed someone is selling a watch with a P15 hood emblem in the middle. Don't know how good a watch it is, but the price doesn't seem too bad........$14.99 with free shipping. Just passing it on in case anyone finds it interesting or wants one. I have no vested interest in the product. Link to the ad: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-PLYMOUTH-2-DOOR-BUSINESS-COUPE-EMBLEM-UNISEX-WATCH-/130803306198?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e747c0ed6

I have some rocker clips that are correct for a P15, far as I know. They measure 2 and 9/16 inches long.

Hmmm.....good question.........well, uh........not sure I' ve ever lubed that particular place. Seems as though it's always shifted just about right all these years since 1973 (when I got it). I like Greg's idea.

Perhaps some liquid graphite or lightweight sewing machine type oil.