BobT-47P15

This pic is of a page in the P15 Repair Manual, I think. My engine is from a 1957 Plymouth......it has a tube for the dipstick......but I don't think it's the correct dipstick. So......one time when I changed the oil, I filled the filter and then the crankcase......and then made a mark on the dipstick where the oil level came.

Hi Simon. Robin gave you good advice. Hope to hear more from you when you receive your "new" car. Bob

Looks good Robin. I see also that you have the optional red circles on your chrome center horn ring.

I did not have good luck removing my set screws........but managed to drive out the complete lock cylinder using, as I recall from many years ago, a large nail or punch and hammer. Since then, have placed chrome plugs in the holes and had no locks. But, not long ago I bought some locks complete with key........so may try to install them and see what happens.

Has a nice vintage look to it.

When I took these pics a few years ago, it was sitting at an auto shop with a for sale sign in it. It didn't sell, so the owners took it back home to Neosho. Don't know who they were, where they live, or if they still have the car. It was purchased in Japan, I believe, by a military serviceman who brought it home.

I am currently using a vintage 50s style aftermarket turn signal unit with a rubber cancel wheel that rubs against the back side of the steering wheel center. It resembles this one, but is in better condition. It has a pilot light like this one to let you know it's working; For a while I used one of those cheap flashers that sells for about $20.......but the works on the inside finally bent because they were made so light weight.........(in China of course).

This is a turn signal indicator/ high beam indicator light unit from a Chrysler or Desoto, or whoever used that item. An arrow indicating direction of turns. 3 bulbs behind the dash to illuminate things. Just posting as background info.

Whoever did that stuff at least had some imagination................. The car is not at the same place any more......don't know if the owner died or moved......or what. His other car was a nice driveable P15 Deluxe with a few add-ons..........

Nice neat work there, Andy............

You can look under the fenders where things join;;;;;;;;underneath things like rubber door stripping and windlace cord....... anyplace original paint might have remained covered when a repaint was done. If they repainted with the original color, it may be harder to tell. Is there any fading of the present paint? Is it thin in any areas? It's possible someone kept the car inside and maybe even covered up so the original paint remained good all these years. Nice car..........have fun with it............welcome to the forum.

Found this picture of a P15 I used to pass by in Springfield, MO. It was basically yard art. Just putting it out here for fun.

I have a new radio/c d player out in the garage. If I put in a new speaker in place of the original, will just the amp in the radio be strong enough to give satisfactory volume for driving along? I don't expect one of those thumping bass=that=rattles=the=trunk=lid sounds. The player might either fit in the glove box or under the front seat. As it is 12 volt, will need to use a power inverter from 6 to 12 that I have.

I sent you a P M.

Tim is right........have never seen anyone offer a complete set. A fellow named Dave Cruse offers some smaller parts like gas tank filler neck grommet and several other P15 smaller things. Steele Rubber Co offers a very good windshield gasket and a cowl vent gasket, among other things......they are not cheap but are good. For doors, there may be some universal rubber strips as opposed to the exact original configuration.....but one needs to search those out.

Back to the key question.......the only solution I have found is a good locksmith. And, those are hard to find here where I live. The last one that tried to make a key produced one that just barely worked, plus he broke a piece on the trunk lock. The only good , old, lock guy we had around here used one of those little gun type things that I referred to as "shooting the lock".......it gauged the placement of the pins or something. He could produce a good working key pretty quick. However, I read somewhere that those tools are supposedly now illegal because they can be operated by crooks as well as locksmiths. Found this info on a forensic lock picking site.........apparently they are called "pick guns" Manual pick guns are spring-loaded tools that resemble a toy gun with a lockpick attached to the front. The lockpick is interchangeable, and referred to as the "needle." To open the lock, the needle is inserted in the lock and placed under all pin stacks. As with lockpicking, a separate tension tool is used to apply tension and rotate the plug. Light tension is applied to the tension tool and the trigger of the pick gun is fired. According to physics, the kinetic energy transfers from bottom pin to top pin, causing the top pins to "jump" in their chambers. If all top pins jump above the shear-line at the same time, the plug can be rotated to unlock the lock.

I don't know how many participants go over to the classifieds and look or shop. I know I don't very often. Maybe it would be appropriate to put a note on the main forum saying something like......"I have a question about windshield wiper parts. Please see my message in the classified section. " ......or something like that. And/or, maybe I can try to put that automatic feature in place.

Here's a P15 wiring diagram, but it does not give wire gauges. I think gauges are listed on the 49 and up diagrams. You guys need to get a Repair Manual and Parts Manual for the car.......can usually be found on eBay. Those answer many (but not all) questions. Have fun and enjoy your project to get it shaped up again.

I did PM the gentleman with some hopefully useful information. Some times the line is a little blurry.

Wish I had measured the length of the "O D cable" i had before the tornado.........but one of those things you just don't think to do as it's lying around waiting to be used at some future time. Who'd of thought it would go flying away. I imagine if a person would measure the original cable and then look for something listed as about 6 inches longer.....that would work. I think the outfit Don Coatney listed in Nashville is a good place for old car items. Thanks for the input guys............always helpful.

I have had my R10 overdrive trans for several years now, and may get around to having it installed. At one time I purchased a speedometer cable that indicated it was for use with an overdrive transmission.......I believe it was just a little longer than the stock cable for the normal trans. However, following our lovely tornado in 2011, that cable is in some other unknown place. My question is for anyone here who has added the R10 to their 46-48 Plymouth......is the original cable long enough, or do you indeed need a bit longer one? If so, what one did you use? Thanks for any input.

Pretty cool alright. Are many planes equipped with that parachute feature?

Frank........I was finding this thread informative to me as I just recently purchased a Tattersfield dual intake (apparently real cheap) from a local scrapper. Mine has no linkage and only one carb attached, and I don't know if I will ever want to install it. But some additional info on the topic has been helpful.