Plymouthy Adams

hopefully you are not trying to read the air gap...?

regardless of chassis ground the device will need be connected + and - respectively....

is this unit farmed out at this time and why it may or may not be on the chassis?

in another 30 years.....flounder about at a greater state of confusion...

therein lies the importance of marking and at least ensuring on removal the position of the rotor when on TDC..and also NOT to rotate said crank till you have reinstalled the distributor. Wish I had a nickel for every one that was "absolutely not 180 out" Factory timing which is the relative 7 position is obtained by proper installation of the oil pump to the cam. While the engine can be timed at any point on wrong insertion of the oil pump, one must make this mental note and clock the towers as needed to compensate. However I have never thought it practical to deviate from proper assembly as such time down the road it often will rear its ugly head in such cases as this....you now have the opportunity to place things back proper and thus be able to with some degree of certainty, follow the book. TDC is established and verified by the access hole in #6 cylinder postion on the head and by valve to determine if TDC 1 or 6 at that time. You can short cut by doing TDC and if it does not start immediately, rotate the shaft 180 and not bother to check the valves with access plate removed or doing the compression with finger as you position the crank TDC. This #6 access is ball park only as only a pison stop and degree wheel will establish true TDC

I see the picture dates are 15 years old....old photos or camera date wrong...if date is right how well did the cab fare out in the weather with no glass....some of these survivors have amazing stories and will to live.

but the constant beeping drives your crazy......

possible......when the guys gets home or next stop and sees his damage to what may be his towed RV...he may make the same statement...I am a hit and run victim.....many folks have no clue when backing if their trailer has made contact with something especially if there is a bit of give in the hit...metal bending....

I have a question for you...what is the oldest car you drive that was factory equipped with belts...how many times have you changed these.....when was there ever a notice by the NTSB to change your belts....as for collision...I do not recall these ever added in on a body shop repair ticket...my only concern on using these belts is that they are not showing signs of abuse and chaffing, not having been exposed to the weather and frequent rains with windows down and doors open or off the vehicle. I have cars from the 70's here, original belts...they are not frayed, chaffed or rusted up...they are still very supple and pliable...not hard and brittle...apply a little common sense..if car was in a collision.....make the call not to use the belts. Very few cars in the wrecking yards around here are wrecks...these are reclaimed and disposed of through major marketing networks...not your local yokel yard.

the thing I would like to mention is careful with vehicles with doors and glass removed and the seatbelts and their associated mechanicals are exposed to the elements.....

walking through a wrecking yard is so addicting. I can and have spent hours on end walking about looking at this and that and taking notes of what I like and the make model and year for later retrofit as appropriate. Like a spice cake a little of everything some times. Anyway....glad to see you out there looking...nothing ventured, nothing gained. To be honest with you, the dare to be different reigns king in my book....no cookie cutter cars.....

you do not know if he is uninsured...only that he is uncouth.... I sure do hate to see stuff like this...

per the manual and schematic within, there are two red wire on the ignition switch one feeds the ignition circuit, the other goes to the turn signals...

I see you into heavy metal music.......

and therein lies the marketing of most belt suppliers....generic belts and not much available for custom fits...this is where you get creative...and creative may be a trial and error but hopefully the error is discovered during the fit and not fitness when stressed in an accident. The wrecking yard I still state proves invaluable in sourcing donor parts...do not rule out that co mingling front and rear center straps may be necessary for a bench seat. The buckles are the same if from front and rear of same car.

keep the three beers (you deserve them for posting the brochure) I wanted three fresh cards off the top of the deck, changing my hand...

one of my favorite Arts.. Mr. Linkletter......I'll go stand in the corner now.........

thanks Lloyd...what I was saying with the advancement is safety and cockpit design with crumple zone make for some heavy metal in places...

well this was carefully extracted and most of it made its way into my 48 bz cp......this puts the metal in the 48 as original design, weight and fabrication to shame....

one aspect ratio is equal to one width dimension in up and down....215/75 would be equiv to 225/70 IF you are looking at trying to maintain the revs per mile.....the 70/75 is the ratio of the tire sidewall compared to the width of the tread....OF IMPORTANCE.....on a radial the width will roll up and onto the lower edge of the sidewall...many forget this and think that the 225 is the actual on the ground tire patch....NOT....

the post this week on skirts had one of our members posting the actual part numbers for Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler....do a quick look am thinking still on first page here... ok, I'll take three of the top please.....it was your own post that shows the different part numbers.... want to get sticky wicket on skirts..try the 1954 Plymouth with at least 10 different fender part number I think.....and I will assure you one skirt fits all IS NOT the answer for that one...so I would feel pretty sure by your own chart it is not a fit....and further...the Plymouth is always a bit smaller body than the shared bodies (cowl aft) of the bigger three sisters.

looks like he is simply fueling up, business as normal...

the formulas, resins and other solvents have evolved over the years and most all newer components are BC/CC where all gloss is the clear coating....anyone that tells you they can match it is jerking your chain...anyone that tells you we can come real close for touching up you can believe....and do try this touch up in an inconspicuous spot first,.,..

it is a personal choice for certain...many arguments for and against on the retrofit....I have a couple cars that are NOT retrofitted and not planning to do so either. I think belts are a good idea....but there should not be a law for an adult to buckle if he does not wants....the ole lance of death if steering is not upgrade to collapsible column is also a risk even with belts...these ole cars do not have engineered crumple zone....

I agree with you....only time I extracted a donor floor sections and seats I had a trailer equipped with a generator, my compressor and various electrical and air driven cutters and grinders. It was still not a quick and easy task as you working on dirt for the most part and limited in means to support and stay safe. Anyone who says the modern cars are built cheap and flimsy has never tried to cut one apart I assure you. I buy a donor vehicle when doing a retro and utilize as much as possible off the carcass before ditching the remnants at the recyclers. It is cheaper and easier in the long run....but again, it is an involved process but hey, this is where the fun is at in my opinion.