Plymouthy Adams

but the constant beeping drives your crazy......

possible......when the guys gets home or next stop and sees his damage to what may be his towed RV...he may make the same statement...I am a hit and run victim.....many folks have no clue when backing if their trailer has made contact with something especially if there is a bit of give in the hit...metal bending....

I have a question for you...what is the oldest car you drive that was factory equipped with belts...how many times have you changed these.....when was there ever a notice by the NTSB to change your belts....as for collision...I do not recall these ever added in on a body shop repair ticket...my only concern on using these belts is that they are not showing signs of abuse and chaffing, not having been exposed to the weather and frequent rains with windows down and doors open or off the vehicle. I have cars from the 70's here, original belts...they are not frayed, chaffed or rusted up...they are still very supple and pliable...not hard and brittle...apply a little common sense..if car was in a collision.....make the call not to use the belts. Very few cars in the wrecking yards around here are wrecks...these are reclaimed and disposed of through major marketing networks...not your local yokel yard.

the thing I would like to mention is careful with vehicles with doors and glass removed and the seatbelts and their associated mechanicals are exposed to the elements.....

walking through a wrecking yard is so addicting. I can and have spent hours on end walking about looking at this and that and taking notes of what I like and the make model and year for later retrofit as appropriate. Like a spice cake a little of everything some times. Anyway....glad to see you out there looking...nothing ventured, nothing gained. To be honest with you, the dare to be different reigns king in my book....no cookie cutter cars.....

you do not know if he is uninsured...only that he is uncouth.... I sure do hate to see stuff like this...

per the manual and schematic within, there are two red wire on the ignition switch one feeds the ignition circuit, the other goes to the turn signals...

I see you into heavy metal music.......

and therein lies the marketing of most belt suppliers....generic belts and not much available for custom fits...this is where you get creative...and creative may be a trial and error but hopefully the error is discovered during the fit and not fitness when stressed in an accident. The wrecking yard I still state proves invaluable in sourcing donor parts...do not rule out that co mingling front and rear center straps may be necessary for a bench seat. The buckles are the same if from front and rear of same car.

keep the three beers (you deserve them for posting the brochure) I wanted three fresh cards off the top of the deck, changing my hand...

one of my favorite Arts.. Mr. Linkletter......I'll go stand in the corner now.........

thanks Lloyd...what I was saying with the advancement is safety and cockpit design with crumple zone make for some heavy metal in places...

well this was carefully extracted and most of it made its way into my 48 bz cp......this puts the metal in the 48 as original design, weight and fabrication to shame....

one aspect ratio is equal to one width dimension in up and down....215/75 would be equiv to 225/70 IF you are looking at trying to maintain the revs per mile.....the 70/75 is the ratio of the tire sidewall compared to the width of the tread....OF IMPORTANCE.....on a radial the width will roll up and onto the lower edge of the sidewall...many forget this and think that the 225 is the actual on the ground tire patch....NOT....

the post this week on skirts had one of our members posting the actual part numbers for Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler....do a quick look am thinking still on first page here... ok, I'll take three of the top please.....it was your own post that shows the different part numbers.... want to get sticky wicket on skirts..try the 1954 Plymouth with at least 10 different fender part number I think.....and I will assure you one skirt fits all IS NOT the answer for that one...so I would feel pretty sure by your own chart it is not a fit....and further...the Plymouth is always a bit smaller body than the shared bodies (cowl aft) of the bigger three sisters.

looks like he is simply fueling up, business as normal...

the formulas, resins and other solvents have evolved over the years and most all newer components are BC/CC where all gloss is the clear coating....anyone that tells you they can match it is jerking your chain...anyone that tells you we can come real close for touching up you can believe....and do try this touch up in an inconspicuous spot first,.,..

it is a personal choice for certain...many arguments for and against on the retrofit....I have a couple cars that are NOT retrofitted and not planning to do so either. I think belts are a good idea....but there should not be a law for an adult to buckle if he does not wants....the ole lance of death if steering is not upgrade to collapsible column is also a risk even with belts...these ole cars do not have engineered crumple zone....

I agree with you....only time I extracted a donor floor sections and seats I had a trailer equipped with a generator, my compressor and various electrical and air driven cutters and grinders. It was still not a quick and easy task as you working on dirt for the most part and limited in means to support and stay safe. Anyone who says the modern cars are built cheap and flimsy has never tried to cut one apart I assure you. I buy a donor vehicle when doing a retro and utilize as much as possible off the carcass before ditching the remnants at the recyclers. It is cheaper and easier in the long run....but again, it is an involved process but hey, this is where the fun is at in my opinion.

sorry you having such a problem....I modified a bench seat...gets quite involved.....as for buckets...for me that is the only way to go and a much as other hate them in an old car....I love them and that is just a part of my personalizing my cars. This coupe has late buckets..built in seatbelt to the seat frame.....you can make these a bolt in but not my recommendation and I highly suggest weld in of donor floor mounts.....modifying is more involved than many care to do and when they do many cut corners. This may give you an idea of the depth a mod can go to mount late models to be as the original design as the donor...

now we need a roll back in price and availability to 1942....thanks, hopefully this will help others now and into the future also.

Lloyd, on one install I was able to also utilize modern belt retractors that were recessed into the structure of the donor body originally and in turn was able to retro fit behind the B post in same said manner.....but I will admit first and foremost....I do not mess with 4 door cars and as such may not be able to assist here except to say some two doors with rear seats....one can still mount on the back corners where the sail and package tray form along with the rear cross brace behind the seat...very structurally sound in this area on the average.....carry a tape, some paper and pencil for notes and if possible a camera and log color and donor application so you can sort and refer to later.....good luck.....I have so far been successful finding retro belts...but often it takes opening many many car doors in the process.

as for the wiring...appears by his statement the dash wiring burnt in welding along with the main harness cut as shown in one of his pictures...he is going to need a retro wiring kit which from quite expensive if purchased, quite involved in making it....but either way would have been best if it were removed and placed aside for safe keeping till later....good thing is many wrecking yards do not ask much for harnesses...finding one that even they did not slice and dice selling engine and tranny may be tricky.....need to be first on scene most of the time.

maybe you could donate that literature via upload to the forum...am sure if you need assistance GTK will surely help and I forgot but thanks for the ident.....folks should be thanked for taking their time to post correct info....

so far every car I have installed 3 points has been done very successfully using clean later model belts from donor vehicles in the wrecking yard at usually 10 bucks a set at tops in my local yard....last set was a hard to find color, burgundy, but did find a nice set with fully enclosed retractors, all hardware, covers and even the associated wiring for the seat belt light....10.00 the pair and the yard helped me with removing them. I suggest a walk through a local yard if possible.....if nothing else....you get some insight on mounting viewing the many models. The install in this case allowed me to use the very mounts of the car, fits and look like it should have been there factory and instead of flopping non retractor shoulder as before...disregard the paint color...getting total color change and burgundy theme interior.. Again, you can do this usually in a better way than generic bolt on......do that walkabout....