Plymouthy Adams

The book makes one caution on the connection to the choke..be sure the screw on the terminal is correct length..too long a screw will bottom out on the manifold and short the circuit...

These are the cats pajamas in a Studebaker Starlight Coupe...

thanks Don..posted the shade on my Studebaker forum..guys over there may appreciate it also...

I convert lean burn babies over using 1969-1974 carbs and I recommend the 1973/74 breakerless distributor and the standard 25.00 ignition module..hve converted a few of these puppies...the fastburn heads on that baby are really good units..for the street..they do very well. If you want a bit of grunt and keep road manners just install a RV cam..basically a bit deeper breather in the 256-260' range...real torque and will light the back tires real well...not a race car..but a definite improvement..

the insight must be from his mothers' side of the gene pool...lol

Make it five years, cut the price in half, throw away Goodyear cheapy tires on production vehicles and deal me in...!

I can say this..the car is built around the engine and as such access is not a factor they designed in..access to components can and most time is a real headache..I don't think that the engineers/designers ever take consideration of the mechanic into the picture.

With the exception of the peaks on the headlights, the 54 Dodge Granada is almost identical to the 1958 Packard Hawk...rear of car not included in this analysis

Bob..you can easily over come this buy doing the following...as you own the shop..sneak in by way of a busted door glass...with your ski mask on and pretend you are stealing it...then ride baby ride...fill your report out in the morning over a cup of coffee

Your basic difference first off will be in the quanity of water in the crossflow being less....due to the smaller thinner tanks..going to a circle track crossflow rad of aluminum will get you dual cooling rows of 1 inch width and the larger cooling reservoir built in..these are available through Summit Racing for under 2 bills new..carries a major brand name also ..Griffin...the number of rows, design and added abilty to transfer heat with the aluminum will probably make this an excellent choice for the oler cars..

yep..but I bet you gonna find a lot of cud built up inside. The pennzoil is a parrafin base product and though highly refined over the past few years..still leaves a residue. The buildup will be even greater without the frequent oil changes...and if used only on short commutes about town..worse even yet. Best thing to do on this baby if it is running at all now...is drop the oil pan and clean the screen. Using a hand held valve tool and compressed air, install new valve stem seals..replace the PCV and change oil and filter, add a quart of Rislone..ensure you have at least a 180 thermostat...throw in a set of plugs and run it like this for a bit..the Rislone alone will do wonder on the notorious lifters in a 318 about the only problem they ever have... As the Rislone will do a good flush of the engine in a pretty quick pace...change the filter after about 200 miles and top off with 50/50 Rislone and oil. 116000 is nothing on this engine..when maintained The entire engine, tranny and rear gear will make an great swap out driveline...using a later model A500 or A518 would be better...the only difference is the rear tranny mount is a tad different than the early model without OD

Joe..in the quick reply box you have the yellow square with the mountain..this is for your hosted pics on the net... For posting direct from your computer files you have to use the GO ADVANCED below the text box and use the MANAGE ATTACHMENT tool.

Lou...if the thread section breaks withing the head and the electrode does remove with the base and ceramic insulator, then removal may be fairly easy with an easy out..I would try the blue point brand that are fluted first or maybe the square ones..as it is basically a failure of the metal due to exposure theymay come right on out. I try to avoid the use of the tapered spirals as they distort and actually can itghten the metal to metal bond of the incline plane. Even if you have to result to removal of the head...quick heating of the m steel within ght cast iron will make quick and easy removal..at that point, you can just flat out melt the thread out of the cast iron.

The clam shell loom is shaped like a clam shell and has the scalloped edge for guiding the wires out of the loom to each plug...as for what year cars had these I am not sure but have seen a few...

Thanks for asking but I will hold onto the stuff for now...maybe one day I will get back into shooting...I used to pop 400-600 rounds a week years ago..30 round magazines empty rather quick... .223 22.250 30-30 30-06 .243 6.5 Jap pistol dies are carbide...357/38

Hey..don't know how long you have been lurking on this forum before joining and such but with you first post you have sold the member list down river...In the years I have been here I have never seen anyone tell another person that their car is not worth fixing up etc. It is good that you have your granma's car...even better that you want to keep it in good condition...do you own a roteiserie or will you be farming this out...if you are farming this out..ask the owner of the rotor jig, I am sure he will have the answer.

In regard to the 45-70..do you really think the guys rode across the pararie standing in the stirrups and shoulder firing that gun at buffers? The 45-70 I fired had a slight bit of a punch to the shoulder. Makes a good meat tenderizer. (YEAH..YOUR SHOULDER MEAT) I used to load 30-30 cartridges..not my favorite caliber..I have not even unpacked my reloading equipment since moving over 12 years ago..

just answer his ad and tell him in regard to his first question concerning the product..it is a known fact that the clock would not work in Africa as it is geared for the western hemisphere and would run backwards in his country. Send some Kruggerands if still interested...

I see you have the rear over-riders off the car..and also have you had any fuel fill problems with fuel splashing out when full? There is an adapter out there that is a 90 degree extension..looks goofy though. I plan not to PACK the tank on fill up with mine...I have the window rain shields on mine complete with front vents and door lock guards...I think the rain shields really ress the side of these cars up nicely. There is a 53 4 door local to me with OD..runner but rough...1200.00 is the asking price..kinda high for condition and location..he may yet getit as these cars are not made every day..that them 2 extra doors are killing him at the moment. Mine also is the 230 with 2 speed automatic...the 2 doors, auto and never dinked with survivor is why I bought the car. I will repaint and freshen the interior.

Norm..my 54 Plymouth Savoy Clup Coupe (as is his 53-no rear vent glass) has stock size tires on it and they really do fill the wheel wells..they are not super large openings..thus the look..the rear tires HAVE to have the body lifted a bit to change...the ole floor jack under the axle won't cut it..

Are you sure you did not block the intake with a rag while the carb was gone to George and fail to remove it..starter fluid and ignition will always get a "bang" so to speak...flat out sounds like the mix is not making it to the cyclinders.

trivial

I think these belong on Freddie Crugars' car...

When I refer to CLOSED, the butterfly is blocking exhaust and diverting.. When I refer to OPEN the butterfly is NOT blocking exhaust... These things are necessary for proper opertion of choke especially in the later V engines as the choke pull off was mounted into a pocket cast in the the manifold and relied upon engine heat to work..the heat riser when cold does divert gasses up and over to the other manifold by way of passage under the choke oven and through the intake under the carb..heating the choke and manifold to promote fuel atomization... With the newer computer controlled cars the rich cold start is maintaned by the computer through temp sender feedback circuits..two on new cars..and in the era before digital when analog, the cold start valve enriched by mean of a temp sender simular to the one used to report engine temp to the guage on your dash..should you be lucky enough to even have a guage.

A properly functioning heat riser brings the engine up to temp in faster smoother manner enabling the fuel to atomize better and overall cold operation be on the decline saving you fuel in the long run. As for doing away with them in the 50's...you must have stayed in the outhouse while the plumbing was changed in your house as they were alive and well even into the 80's As for Ford the heat tube you see is for one reason..diverts gasses up to the bi-metal in the choke housing to accelerate the opening of the choke butterfly. A functioning heat riser diverts gases but if functional and free will still be blown open on acceleration...an engine under acceleration does not utilize the choke circuits and therefore that mixture is not in the mix so to speak. Can you live without it yes...is it worth fixing...your call...the real nix is the thing closing and getting stuck in that position..back pressure is now the problem, , stumbling on acceleration and increase in engine temp. Leaving it opens lengthens the time the engine takes to get to temp wasting fuel and sooting you plugs..