Plymouthy Adams

Makes you want to run right out and buy one...!!!

that very small area of yellow really set off the wheel...red is too stark...

Don..thanks buddy..after looking at that rusty hulk..I have to go get a tetnus shot. No idea but the guy that bought it did and was more than happy to get it I am sure..frame alone could be worth it..

Not sure just how many years this was applicable but in my book it shows the battery grounded to the front drivers side of the engine on a drilled and threaded head bolt. My 54 is original and it is there also..being a 54 model car and the book covers 46-54..one can but guess.

It is nasty outside so I have spent a bit over an hour on this..I have 92 out of 100..as I am not a chevy fan I have trouble with a few model names...I will eventually get it but this is enough for now..I have but two that I have not named the make...so without the make I cannot get the model..so that leaves basically only 4 models not named.

try this... Plymouth - 1948 - DIRECTION-SIGNAL-FRONT - Automobile - 1158/6.3V/7V/2.63A/0.75A USA Plymouth - 1948 - DIRECTION-SIGNAL-REAR - Automobile - 1158/6.3V/7V/2.63A/0.75A USA Plymouth - 1948 - DOME-LAMP - Automobile - 87/6.8V/1.91A USA Plymouth - 1948 - HEADLAMP - Automobile - 5040/6V/50W/40W USA Plymouth - 1948 - INDICATOR-LAMP - Automobile - 51/7.5V/0.22A USA Plymouth - 1948 - INSTRUMENT-PANEL-LAMP - Automobile - 81/6.5V/1.02A USA Plymouth - 1948 - LICENSE-PLATE-LAMP - Automobile - 63/7V/0.63A USA Plymouth - 1948 - PARKING-LAMP - Automobile - 63/7V/0.63A USA Plymouth - 1948 - REAR-LAMP - Automobile - 63/7V/0.63A USA Plymouth - 1948 - STOP-LAMP - Automobile - 1129/6.4V/2.63A USA

headlights..upper beam...45 watts lower beam 35 watts Parking and tail light....3 cp Stop lamp 21 cp license plate light 3 cp light switch protected by 30 amp fuse my book did not give number of replacement bulb..but Hey..you did get the cp listing..headlights are ususally always rated in wattage...(volts X amps)

one other item..on your dash starter switch...be sure that it is not sticking on...even though the buton may return does not necessary man the contacts are not sticking inside..this is tested by disconnecting and checking with ohm meter.

first determine if the starter solenoid is sticking or not...that is what applies your voltage to the starter..also is you starter switch securely mounted to the dash and not lose causing it to maybe short across the contacts aor even have lose contacts here that may be shorting...

gonna try to put a few miles on it today to check it's roadworthy..probably drive it uptown a bit, fill it up and get a spare key made if possible...then maybe run by the tag office and take care of that...first things first thogh..go to make it to the landfill..too many old tires about the place that have to go deep six. Took mums and the boy out to Shoney's for breakfast...now going to try and get some work out of them..yeah right...!!!!!!!

Allan, I did drive the Spitfire out of the shop tonight with the exhaust system now complete..looks good and sounds good also..not bad considering I had only a 2 1/2 collector as a start...I used a reducer and took 2 1/4 to the rear..then reduced it to 2 inch as I had a Dodge Diplomat muffler and rear pipe like new in the barn..after a bit of cutting and weldingl viola..an exhaust system is born. Maybe now I can get the shop a bit straightened up and get back to work on my 41..

Brad..the few times I have been to your house..never met the little lady..she sure looks good in blue....

which of the 12 version of the game did you play..don't think you were on the link posted above...

Ok..so I went back and did it again.. 319.9 seriously, is there anyway I could let a lawyer from Georgia equal my score...I don't think so..!!

Ed..long ago before I got my lift I was uptown with the Tiger..thought it would be good to get a lube and oil change with the possibility of undercarriage inspection of the car from down in the pit. Well..as the pit had guard rails around it..my car would not even drive through the bay...so I can still say I have never had one of these places ever service any of my cars. As the Tiger has never been lowered per say, and with the number of cars out there that also sit low..just how in hang do they manage to service the number of cars they did in a given day. The only time my cars go out for service is to the alignment shop or in the case of the bigbutt when I needed an entire front to rear custom exhuast fabricated. I still sing praises about that business...they did the entire job to my exact specifications and for a very reasonable price. I had asked first if they would do it my way and give me an up-front written estimate...they came in a bit under their own estimate.

now you know why they call it a gated community..they don't want these crazies out in the general population...

My first swing..292.9 (lucky hit) about 40 swings later I hit 316..enough is enough...just proves the blind hog theory...

Copperhead Term used during the American Civil War to describe a Northerner who opposed the war policy and favoured a negotiated settlement with the South. The term was first used in 1861 by the New York Tribune, referring to the copperhead snake that strikes without warning. Most Copperheads (also called Peace Democrats) were from the Midwest, where agrarian interests distrusted the growing federal power. The movement's leaders included Clement Vallandigham. Though the movement was unable to influence the conduct of the war, Republicans used the Copperhead label to discredit the Democratic Party.

these are not permanent magnet DC motors...therefore they care not which is pos and which is neg...

Most of these are done by first boxing and then notching your frame...it is a superior pain in the butt on these cars as the spring housing on the car have to be shave and boxed...keep in mind that relation of the rear frame and the front ears when doing this must not be disturbed...it is do the outside ..do the inside...watch your cross piece for replacement of the doghouse. Once boxed most people then set the height by depth of notch...also 2 inch drop spindles are available for this k-member...when cutting the notch..this is the time to verify your caster. Some install guide say you can imitate the doughnut mounts but ride height is general high when doing this...

The wire unplugs at the bottom...it is easy to remove and re-install the wire..I have done so a number of times..be careful however as the rubber may be brittle..if this is the case I would recommmend replacing with a heavy teflon coated wire..the teflon covers allows for a very slick stiff wire to work with..you can drop a small nail through the hole with a string attached to help fish thorugh if needed..use air pressure to blow the nail through...

I am one to do all my own maintenance..however I had the Tiger uptown one day, long before I bought my own lift. I thought that I would go ahead and get an oil and filter, plus a chassis lube and give the car a look-see from under..while I will admit that the operators were very friendly and never in their lives had seen a Tiger thus was willing to let me inspect from the pit...sad part is that thier drive through bay had guard rails that would not permit the Tiger to drive on. My one and only experience with "lube shops"

sometimes you can touch up stuff like that with a sharpie marker...we have paint pens at work for touching up aircraft instrumentation panels.

I highly suggest you load the vehicle..if you plan to lower the rear below that of normal ride height..do it at the time fo the Volare install....point is that when installing the Volare sub..you need to be sure of the caster for once it is set it is set..the angle has to be some positive..follow the chart of the volare when setting but do it with the ride height you want..or..just go a bit more positve (angle toward the rear) and you will have some play room..it is better to have a bit extra positive caster than none or negative..neutral or negative will make it road walk like crazy. Most of this work is done with the frame rails in a level condition. I will have to look around for the install specs on the Volare front end...

I would not be concerned with the ride height in the rear yet and wait till the car has the newly installed V8 and auto..then address the total car in regard to stance...you can always lwer the rear later with blocks if need be... Really odd...changing this axle, using original perches springs, shocks and with the 65 series tires..ought to be just a tad lower due to the itres..the rest is one for one...did you measure the height prior to the axle change and if so what is the difference in the numbers...