Plymouthy Adams

this is from a town south of here that hosts our bi-annual swap meet..the texture of the card is different and I guess I just flat out liked it so much I bought it..one can only guess to what cars are pictured..

You are using + and - for terminals 1 and 2 and that is okay as long as 1 goes to one and 2 goes to two..the second chart is incorect....the first wiring should be correct..the black box you have below the tanks sending unit..what does that represent...?? This should be the sending unit going to ground....as the tank is full in this confition, the guage will read full as you indicate in your test. Using the trouble shooting chart above you can test each leg of the resistor by grounding or open by just lifting the wire off the terminal, through the wiper on the reisitor...as posted in picture by Tom T. Do not depend on the tank itself being a good ground connection..you can run an alternate ground wire to the frame of the car..please keep in mind here also that the lower part of the sending unit, the bulge that the reistor fits into is the ground point mechanically for the wiper..the sender has a gasket between it and the tank and internally between the bulge and the top cap where the terminals are..you can take a short piece of wire and place it between the sender and the tank with the gasket under the wirre and bolt it down..this wire can now go to your car body and ground ensuring a good connection at this point..seriously sounds like ground is your problem. In regard to your reducer..if this is one of the type that bolt in and not electronic or bi-metal style as built into your guage..the load will not be enough to reduce you voltage..they work well on larger load device but WILL still surge on first power then fall back. What voltage are you reading on the guage side of the reducer with the ign switch on? Can you post a pic of your reducer...? Again, the guage will work without the reducer as the guage itself has a built in 5 volt bi-metal regualtor. The ground is the one most common problen to these guages not working. As indicated in earlier post and pictures above..the wiper, arm that the float connects to, is the only link to ground you should have on the sender.

I have three of these cars upgraded with various Mopar rear gears..9 1/4, 8 1/4 and a 8 3/4...with all applications the stock springs were retained and the narror perches removed from the stock rear end and transfered to the donor..as for the width, that is something you need to work out..as i also used a 9 1/4 from a 79 Newport and the width is about 6 inches wider..no biggy as I built my car around a set of positive offset factory Dodge mags..fill the rear wells nicely...

trivial

even quicker..hook it up battery, engine off, pull on the lights..look at amp meter..

It is of a purpose..this is for locating top dead center..and you can measure the stroke of your block in this fashion...when the plug is removed, you should be able to see right through..appears it is carboned up...

nla

I remember the car..I also remember you really did not want to let it go..

That is a sharp car...a few of them about in Georgia but they are getting harder to come by..you did good...you should be happy with that one...congrats..

I said I was out of it..but this will cinch it...it is funny Norm how you can go round and round about this and that and relate all non car related incidents in your verbage but god forbid someone take a minute and explain something so the guy and back up and regroup...excuse the hell out of me....!!!!!!!!!! Ed..guess I can kiss one of my Christmas gifts good bye with that one.... I don't apologize for the truth..just for the manner in which I had to put it across...

Whatever..I'm out of it...

There-in lies the problem..you have to understand how it works to get it to work...nothing more needs be said...

the guage is marked for battery and then you terminal ! and terminal 2 the wires to 1 and 2 go to the terminals on the tank unit..the tank is grounded and the sender unit can be grounded extra for know ground to the body of the sender but never to one of the terminals. The guage cares not if it is positve or negative ground nor if 12 or 6 volts as the guage is heater element with built in voltage regulator in the gauge..the twin coils pull the guage in both directions as the 0-32 ohms are split to ground on the wiper...as the wiper moves the 32 ohms are linear..1 would be 32 and 2 would be 0..as it moves to the other end, and say 1 changes to 25 then 2 will the 7...this balance and the 5 volt regulator dampens the movement against any slosh and keeps the needle rock solid...it also take a few cycles of the built in regulator to steady out the needle and read the tank level accurately.

Ed..I'm trying to be good...biting my lip when I can...helping little old ladies across the street as it is very close to Christmas and I have many parts and tools that dance like sugar plums before my eyes..

Ed..then the fun is gone...some day..am not in any hurry really...refuse to cut a corner just to sit behind a wheel..I bought 13 license plates this year...10 are motorized vehicles..not like I don't have something to drive...went back out after talking to you on the phone and soldered the last of the pin holes in the gas tank of the Spit..as fo this morning still no leaks...maybe (with fingers crossed and puckered cheeks)

silly me...did not read down far enough before I posted...thanks..sorry to be a problem...guilty of reading out of order sometimes...

Nice work...great selection of cars featured..now...how about a calender for the guys who are WORKS IN PROGRESS.....????? Get both sides of the coin...

Lou..once set up right they work well...the engagement of the solenoid is activated with the starter motor that allows full engagement of the choke...once started the tension to the choke is lessened with the dropping of the voltage to the solenoid..this is your basic primary choke divorce...this now reverts to the air gap need in the throat of the carb to ensure running when cold without over enrichment...full divore is the result of the choke bi-metal spring as it loses its tension when heated...at full temp the metal should be fully expanded and the choke valve a perfect vertical position.

I am thinking the Jasper decal was center of the block just abouve the oil pan and block gap...forget what side though...

PS..one other item..if you need another gasket..you may have to go to a shop that services boiler etc..they have a gasket material called GARLOCK..it is made for these type high heat application...they used this stuff on ship repair all the time...

Ed...the choke has but one wire hook up..that means for the solenoid to energize the other end of the internal coil must go to ground on the engine.. The asbestos type gasket is there to prevent loss of ambient temp within the housing to enable the bi-metal to get the full effect of the manifold heat...

Norm..sometimes you just got to bite the bullet and go for it..a bit of maintenance is needed in any and all things...

The book makes one caution on the connection to the choke..be sure the screw on the terminal is correct length..too long a screw will bottom out on the manifold and short the circuit...

These are the cats pajamas in a Studebaker Starlight Coupe...

thanks Don..posted the shade on my Studebaker forum..guys over there may appreciate it also...