Plymouthy Adams

This was introduced long back..still not ready for the public it appears...not sure if they can stand up to the rigors of acceleration, braking and g-force associated with hard turns...lots of webbing there ready for ultimate tire failure. If this was any good I am sure the Navy would use it for anchoring their heavy componets to buffet shock from war and adverse sea conditions..I think they are still uning the cable coil suspension. Then again, it has been years since I was employed by DoD Navy.

Look to 50's pickup trucks for flatter smaller rear glass that may be more at home in your chop than a sedan or coupe glass... International has nice sized glass I know...

I have in recent time with the building of my latest shop addition installed some very spacious suspended shelves. I have my parts for various cars cleaned and boxed, marked on the outside as per application..this has gone far in helping me should I need to do a test fit of an item in the course of repairing my cars. I have slowing been able to also clean up a lot of my laydown area in the overhead in similar manner..I have areas dedicated for Sunbeam, Triumph, Plymouth, Dodge etc. for some of the larger items like seats, fenders etc. I have a long way to go yet but am getting there. Tools that I use but once in awhile are also boxed in metal tool cases and such with a number on the box and a list on a clipboard as to what is in what box. Originazation is a hard thing to do when you also stay rather busy working on a project of some sort. It is a dicipline that is hard learned and I confess I am not as diciplined as I should be. It is a slow process and I am happy that I am making progress in both areas. This takes lots of boxes though...but sure looks better plus the part is protected until needed.

I prefer butt welds..others overlay and drill holes to use Cleco clamps to hold panel in place...and then you have those that use the flanging tool that makes a recessed shelf for the panel to lie in and then weld..the key is fullperimeter weld for max strength and watertight integrity to prevent future corrosion. Actually I have used all the above and it is according to the area and how much room you have for working whatever clamp/device you use plus access to back of the weld for final prep. I do not care nor recommend pop rivets or sheet metal screws unless they are your only method to hold in place while welding and are removed after the weld and hole also welded in. Hope this links to my earlier post and shows the buttweld of the bear claw donor latches from the 91 Dynasty onto my 41 Dodge..these clamps are fantastic as they really will prevent a lot of sheetmetal buckling...and if you have access to the rear of the weld, very easy to use...I recommend you having these if you do panel repair.. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=45

Shel..bless you..I feel so much better with my shop now... I have this problem of working out there till late..come in when I get tired..when tired me sleep..not sweep

Its a three passenger due to the roll bar...guess its for the babies safety seat...

This car for some reason does look familar...I like it for sure..however as our original Norm said..lose the roll cage..and install a decent back seat...this car is very well appointed..nice in and out..but I would have to see the before and during shots to invest the coin this car will bring...it is only about 2 1/2 hours from me...how many want to chip in and get it for me..I can send you pictures of it..gas reciepts, nah..make that send you gas bills...let you come view it (at your cost) and on your birthday a filmed burnout in your honor...hey ..how can you go wrong?

dupe listing..

nla

nla

Imagine that..thanks...Champion body..the smaller car..what a nose that car has..Jimmy Durante...eat your heart out....

I think Allan found a set of the factory replacement panel and yes they are correct curved..I also found a set of them for my Club coupe years ago..correct curve, indents/holes and rocker trim square holes...rest assured that these are very hard to obtain today.

OK..mystery buyer..who got the deal...inquiring minds want to know.. Sounded like one very solid car...

Mid year 1952 introduces the OD in Plymouth..6 volts I think through 1955..12volts afterwards through 58 in cars...you will see the R10 cast into the unit on the passenger lower side I think...not sure if the OD continued in use with the itroduction of the slant 6 engine...never followed these cars past early fifties..

I am not sure..at that time I think the DeSoto and Chrysler may have shared the same body...I think the Dodge may have been a mid line whereas the Plymouth was the smaller body..but again I am not 100 percent on this..just basing this on the last 49 Chrysler I saw...

So maybe a Dodge connection ...did not think that one mule could get all of Juan's coffee off the mountain and to the market...

that is determination....congrats...

350.00 is not in-law pricing..be sure and get your monies worth here..however..as a gentle nudge may be better than bursting through the door..ask you sister-in-law to inquire on the side about what they can do to help you out...

I have welded a set in as supplied by JC Whitney...for a 2 door..they went in without any real problem..better than the high dollar ones I bought and had to return to a major supplier..those were pure T garbage...of the two..and for the money..JC gets my vote.

a few..can send them out from here..look for a PM with photobucket links in a few minutes from now.

At the last swap meet there was one selling these NIB for 40.00..very nice vacuum molded carrying case...he sold his inventory early...I expect him to be back with more this year....

For what it is worth..I met a vendor at a auto swap meet..he was selling the exact same units as JC Whitney..maybe that was where he got them...I clicked on your web link..did not see a picture of the rocker in question..rest assured however that all the ones I have seen for the 49-52's did not have the correct J-curve at the threshold..this is an item that can be duped only by stamping..a break will not recreate this curve..they are still workable mind you..average Joe won't notice...

Ahhh...come on Norm..be a real guy..know what I want folks to say about me 100 years from now... "Damn he looks good for his age..."

Gary is right..I upgraded my engines..I was fortunate to find a person who could use them..we both made out. I also hate to see then go to the scrap heap..but tripping over them get tiring also..most rodder are not even trying to get high bucks return to begin with..Gary, sure you don't need a D19 Town Sedan...look good at your place...lol

218 for the Plymouth is correct..the twin carbs..number of people running different things...they must be jetted correctly and sync'ed..you need a specail tool for that..don't leave home without it...I believe Ed posted the pic of the valve in question..that is the hot water control valve for the heater. As Ed stated..bypassing is not that hard..you can piut a nipple there..pluymb in a cable actuated aftermarket valve and continue to operate as normal..most parts houses have a book..ask to see all the control valves..pick one by inlet outlet size..cable op and physical size to suit your application.