Plymouthy Adams

As Nile mentioned, no title will be issued even if titled from another state at time of purchase. Other states have to reciprocate and honor this law..bill of sale from Georgia and a copy of the registration show it was registered in sellers name and instant title in another state...it is the registeration that is the key...otherwise you may have to post the bond..and further the state may request that a uniform officer inspect the car's body number against bill of sale and sign a verification letter that it matches. We have to do this here in Georgia when a car sales without a valid registration card. No bond however..just went through this with the 54 Plymouth.. I know some states are very hard to deal with..personally I think if I have the title and wish to pay the fee, I should get my car titled and as how it is written here in GA that you can back to late 50's I think, they still will not do it even if you request..Georgia did not issue titles until 1949 or 50 area.

The clock you need will have just the slightest amount of dome..get it too high and the knob for setting will not function..don't ask as I never admit to anything... When removing the minute hand, pull up the setting gear and engage..using a nice flat piece of rubber gasket and your fingers wrap and hold the engage gears..firmly grasp the minute hand and do a twist and lift motion..hand should come off..I will tell you..they can and often times will be a bit tough... After that disassemble the coil from the clock..do not immerse that in solution as you do not want to break down the coating on the wire of the coil...it is a very simple yet solid little clock..The electro-magnet fires when the contact come together..this causes the counter lever to be pulled to the pole of the magnet..this stretches the spring..this stretched spring is what keeps tension on the movement like a mainspring on a wind up watch. There is a good amount of tension left on the spring when it next fires so it never really misses a beat nor winds down till the battery cannot fire the magnet or clock stops due to lack of oil, dirt in the gears or a spike from a high heel goes through the crystal.

E-bay is a trend sometimes..look for more to follow..especailly at the price this pair went for...like my cars like I like my women..skirts off

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At first I thought you had cut all the trees for posts an purlions...then I said..whoa..is that the desert????? You builing it too small...I know you say that now..but wait..it is too small..lol Like no substitute for cubic inches (turbo the exception) no substitute for sq. footage.

I have done three of these clock..the hands are just white paint...the hands do need to come off to properly clean the clock and the dial/face removed so the clock movement can be immersed and later properly lubed. I had two sets that came off rather easily and one set that really was a pain..not sure if I was going to get them off without damage but finally came off..it is the minute hand that is the bugger bear. The adjuster sleeve is held on with the slotted button screw also for removal of the dial..I also make a dial out of a cheapo clock at Family Dollar...worth the price for the cheepo to get a nice clear lens..easily marked and cut..I put masking tape over it to protect the finish whele cutting to size..the tape also protects against shatter when drilling the hole..go very very slow here...

When I did the ones on my 51 and also the 52 Plymouth I went to the local junkyard and got some light sockets from a Diplomat ...the old single element sockets are not stepped for the 1157 bulb so that is why I changed it all out..now they are dual and self aligning with no need to file a tab on the bulb.

If the crank if .050 under then the supplier of the crank has the responsibility to provide matching bearing shells. In fact I would find it very very unlikely that any machine shop would line bore the block to .050 never should there have been a core shift that needed cleaning up to this degree and as Mr. Curl stated..they machine at the boss first to allow it to be line bored and will go back to stock. It is my feeling that they just sent the wrong size bearings with the kit...the back of the shell will have the undersize stamped in the metal...check for this information first...maybe some one here can snap guage a torqued end cap for proper diameter.. Secondly the person assembling should have caught this with the first bearing cap being put on..the use of a plasti-gage is paramount for just this reason..with a song and dance like the one you are getting the music must be plenty loud.

will you throw in a split hare?

Ed, I was going to a tech school in the mid late eighties in Illionis...I also found an old Honda Elsinor 250 Enduro (2 stroker) to occupy my spare time..it had a locked up engine but pretty much complete..I went through that engine and when I go it running took it out on the pararie outside of town for the initial run..(they had a nice dirt bike run there)...I bet you no less than 100 rabbits jumped in front of me on that short ride..called that bike THUMPER..I swear when you hit third gear you best be prepared to ride for the rear tire tried to pass the front one everytime..it was whicked for its size..sold it later as it was just a bit much as I was getting a bit to daring on it..told the boy about 3rd gear..passed him one evening limping in pushing the bike..asked him what happened..he simply said, THIRD GEAR

Rattle can paint is at best a temp fix and will require frequent re-doing to stay in nice looking shape. However it appears that access to a compressor and spray gun is your main problem..however if you do have access and cost is your killer...then a very economical system that would do well on the fenders would be Rustoleum Gloss Black, quart is about 8.00 and you can get a can of acrylic hardner at any auto finish store for under 10.00 and mix 8-4-1 and shoot it..the hardner really adds gloss and protection to the Rustoleum paint..I use the generic brand hardner with this and it does frames and underside of fenders fantastically..as they eventually get undercoat..no sense to pay high price for paint...you will find that when dry that the abilty to remove this paint with 500 grit is a bit on the difficult side..it bonds excellent to well prepared surfaces. 8 parts paint 4 parts reducer (or as needed to reach correct viscosity to spray, may want to use a fast reducer for this time of year.) 1 part hardner couple drops of fish eye eliminator if you wish...

I tell you this Bob..you find a couple split hares and I will be more than happy to cook us BOTH a stew...I am sure it would be most tender and flavorful after seasoning and about 18 hours slow cook in the crock pot..Dang..now I'm hungry...have not had a rabbit for a meal in many years...coyote pretty much keep rabbits at a extremely low population here in the middle of Georgia..

I know the lettering is not on the 54 flags.....that would be too much for tooling to do that...it is a nice key chain and would go well with my 1954 Savoy...as it would go well for any Plymouth car for that matter...I would like to find a set of the tail fins to put on my car..have seen them on Savoy cars for sale...couple pair I have seen just been to badly pitted to mess with..

Maybe this will help you..I have here at the house a D24 sedan trunk lid and I also have a P15 sedan with the trunk lid off for prepping...the D24 lid has the wrong curve and is wider to the extent that it covers part of the rear light on the Plymouth when the seams are aligned on one side...

Correct you are..my use of words "came out" may have been wrong I did not clearify enough but the intent was to say that the actual flag appeared first on the car in emblem form in 1954..it may be splitting hares..but I don't recall seeing it on a car till that time..and it is the only place I have ever seen the emblem affixed to a car...

In all fairness..some of these models the rubber seal affixed to the deck lid not the body...as the trunk itself is not pictured..it very well could be in place... Over all this is one nice car...the chrome appears to be extremely nice and that is a small fortune on items as large as the DeSoto has...yet in the given market it is over priced. On the other hand if this guy deals in cars he has alternate means to finiance this for a prospective buyer and as such could make the car affordable through a payment plan over time...to each his own... Point number two in the scheme of things..what type body work was required and how was it completed..I would INSIST on detailed photographs of a car that is represented by that high an asking price...photos of work being accomplised is very much a selling point later...the man offered no arguement paying my price after seeing the photos when I sold my Porsche years ago. Sometimes cars are just flashed for flipping..those sccare me...

For the record..to prevent a lot of build up of gunk in the engine due to low heat from lack of use of thermostat..suggest you keep a thermostat in place at all times..the 185 will get the engine to temp and allow you to cook off the condensation and help retard the accumulation of gunk ..this gunk is notorious for restricting oil return holes in the upper engine starving the car of oil in some extreme cases.

That banner came out with the 54 Plymouth I am thinking..they are also found on the car on the rear fender trim...one little removable flag per side...

Cheylan WV..town closest to the ony tunnel on the turnpike...very small town..had to drive through this town to visit my relatives many years ago...

What happened..tree limbs froze and fell on the power lines..did you have a back up generator? I have one..we hit a power outage in my neck of the woods and I am lit up like an oasis...love it..they are nice to have around...

Now I see the problem..the P.O. in Alaska got the zip code wrong ..was to be sent to Canada to begins with..yes I know you don't have zip codes in Canada...need I say more....lol It is very nice out..sunshine and blue skies...not at all like I thought today would be..not raining at all....so much for the weather man and his 90%...90%that he would not get anwywhere close to a real prediction.

A real Texan would have put a lasso around that and took it back to Canada where it belongs...now it will probaly move east to my neck of the woods. Gee thanks...!

A very simple yet effective reservoir that is also correct thread..try Sunbeam Alpine..check it out at Long Motor Corporation...clicl on the Sunbeam catalog...try series 4 Alpine...

Boy..talk about an afterthought on the gas fill tube...sorry boys..forgot all about that in the design..lets just stick it here...

Plastic..one I have in the TS is steel...??????