Plymouthy Adams

As the fluid coupling in the car is the transfer of motion then indeed low fluid could easily be the cause of your problem. However filling may not be the cure...why is it leaking if you find it to be low?

Thanks..I will answer...why yes..we each have our own Honda...

This thread peeked my curosity..the 47 Town Sedan I just bought has these size wheels, these tires are very narrow..so I was wondering about the track of the bigbutt coupe as it is upgraded. The stock track is 57...so with the positive offset 7" wide aluminum wheels I am using with 215/65/15's...the cross section of the tire is 8 3/8 inch but the track is only 57 5/8" lots of extra meat for no sacrifice in fender clearance..who is going see 5/16 inch per side standing away from the car? Pleasantly pleased. Now the rear track with the 70 'cuda 8 3/4 and same wheel/tire combo..track is about 1 1/2" wider than stock...I will probably install 225 width tires when finished.

PM works the best..the e-mail for some reason is a hit or miss issue as i have also in the past had trouble..I don't bother to use it anymore..PM is by far the best approach..

anti chatter spring for equalization of pressure around the drum surface..to think it is simply for noise..no..you can actually have brakes grab if you have one on one wheel and not one on the other..really only needed on the front drums...

I give Travolta credit for having his commercial pilots license...that is really good...but for all these years since the sweathogs..he still doesn't know how to act...at least Nicholas Cage grew up a bit....he will always be a punk in my eyes..the book, The Generals Daughter was the makings for an excellent film..to believe that the movie followed the script take a lot of imagination..to think Travolta played the part well..take lots of alcohol...

why I stay out of Tennessee as much as possible...real class as we all know is a Sears catalog...duh...!!

nla

oh yeah...the old TP cover...egad I had hoped never to see one of these again....

this has battled back and forth a few times here..there are those that have new rebuilt engines running the finest grades of oil available even symthetics...then there are those who have converted their cars over by oil changes and frequent filter changes etc as the detergents tend to start cleaning an otherwise gunked up engine..and then there are those who have coverted, no oil filter changes that have started moving masses of contaminates through their engines and damaged bearing surfaces. Then you have those that have the older engines that have always been on the ND diet and remain to keep it that way till the time comes for overhaul whereas they will then go to the higher grade oils.. only error in the bunch is the addition of high detergents or detergent additives without regard to very frequent filter changes....remember...if the oil filter gets restricted..oil flow (contaminates also) continue to circulate...

I'd donate 10.00 toward another hole to bury it in.... Speaking of which....if the guy who got the record breaking steroid ball is subject to paying a tax on its value though it never has changed hands...why is this car at the record price offered not also being hounded by the tax collectors... How can you tax a potential to earn money...most women are equipted to be high dollar prostitutes but are they being taxed...throw me a bone here..I just don't get it...its like the guy who says he lost 10,000.00 in the stock market..NO..he failed to realized his max potential but he still sold for a profit..just not what he could have had..so...as he was active in the stock market..the same principle applies here..tax him for his stupidity for not getting out when he could realize max dollar...next thing you know, your old car here will be taxed at the rate of the trailer queen..some states do this...and it is based on the average value..of course if yours is a junker..well it still applies at the same collector rate..I know, we were under this for some time in SC...it was finially repealed..that is why collector is not registered as the collector guide lists it..glad we had the option on this model...

The flex piece is there to prevent breakage of the line as the enigne rock left to right on acceleration due to torque. The lines were steel and thus would work harden if this rubber piece is not used. IF you run a later style hard nylon style hose, the flex of this line is such that you can eliminate the rubber connector.

I will agree with the Chevy cam to some degree..not all the time is the metal fatigue due to poor material or workmanship..it is a product of over building for the street and improper break in..most of these boys will put in high lift cam, super heavy springs so as not to float at the revs they will NEER run on the street and then idle these babies to a ground powdered metal just to hear them chop. IF you think you need a engine of this nature..DO install normal daily driver stock grocery getter spring and break in the cam right..then after break in..change to the higher tension..however I still don't recommend racing hardware on the street driven car that will idle or pull a AC at low rpm etc....dollar for dollar more money is spent on a Chevy engine in the valve train area than anywhere else on the engine so they can be on par with either the Mopar or Ford stock design. These are such a major flaw in the GM and just recently have they copied the 1957 Mopar poly block heads of the 318 for performance and durability...

166 fan switch 165-164 forward door seal..by the hinge 163-162 pedal draft seal 157 lower door seals 156-154-153 door panel trim (the uprights you will see where these insert in the window garnish)

Tony..keep in mind the amount of movement needed to index the 727 without having the default neutral crossover on your column shifter interferring..this can be done..will need to make a bellcrank. As for your indicator...be careful here..I bought one from a leading supplier..their ad was very vague and led you to believe it was installed to the pan bolts (ie chevy style) whereas their mopar unit is different..it installs exactly in the position of the kickdown linkage of the modern truck tranny of which I suggest you look into for your own application. Also the routing of your cooling lines in stock form hinder this application also..it can be overcome but at a bit of time and effort on your part. In other words..not a dirrect bolt on unless you are using a tranny mounted "be like everyone else" shifter with cable kickdown from another major supplier that everyone uses..however here again, the kickdown there is very expensive and must use the stock bellcrank located on the bellhousing..if we all had this amount of room you would not need a cable kickdown cable..duh! Hopefully you will be able to use stock setup..my application was the 3 piece setup stock and thus bulky..interferring with my tapered firewall.. Anyway..the seller of the indicator agreed that the ad was misleading and ad need to be changed to reflect proper mounting location...I am sure if I had went the expensive aftermarket out of the box stuff this may have been a quick and easy setup..their customer service department was top notch. This setup is complete now on my 41 with the 383/727...kickdown travel is dead on with specs from factory..also keep in mind that if you retrofit factory cruise control, that the breakaway lever is installed on your carb. Not a factor if using say a Bendix all in one box cruise kit.. Proper kickdown lever adjustment is paramount for the transmission to shift smoothly..DO..give this major consideration when fitting your stuff up..hopefully you can just transfer all your stuff from the donor to your car..

appears to be the colors of my 54 club coupe...looks real nice...do you still have the blue gingham interior?

On another note..you have the 4 door sedan in custom trim...this is the the 4 door Town Sedan and it came in custom trim only....

no we did not..still think you need to investigate for current drop/insufficient size cable or dragging starter right on to possible bad coil...

The old forum site before this new format host the original spotters quide and lots of other reference material..go to the dark gray banner above and click on RETURN TO P15-D24.COM and check out all the link..this will get you to the spotters guide..quick way to help define years, models and see the differences between the D24 Dodge and sister car the P15 Plymouth. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/spotterframeset.html

I am about 8 miles from the nearest if you want to call it hardware store...and their selection and "out of date stock" leaves a whole lot to be desired...I do however like living where I do..and I have about gotten accustomed to writing down what I need and grabbing it while up town so to speak..has taken a whole lot to get used to this might I ad..like you..I did live where everything was but a couple mintues away and competetion was so great a good deal was always found...

glad you have a choice of where to shop...everyone in this area is closed now and to drive all the way to next town of size, some 50 miles round trip, makes shopping stores "other than" a tad bit expensive.

I traded an old hoopie here for an engine and a 4 door 65 Dodge Coronet..right sharp looking car..decied it was too new for me plus 4 doors did not want to major invest....traded it for yet another engine and tranny combination and donor front brakes for my 48 Plymouth...I have just not been able to get in the groove so to speak on muscle car era...nice looking 64 Plymouth 4 door down here..passed on it also..ran real nice...looks like he did sell it hough..I could probably be enticed into a nice 62 Dodge Dart 330...but gotta be a two door so you can get max jingle back out of it...max wedge is not an option..just want the body style..

I use the ole stand by Wal-Mart rattle can bomb and go...clear enamel

I effectively extend the life of the newer lenses by wet sanding the coating that was put on back off...then I use Barkeeper Freind to further clean and polish them followed by a two light coats of clear enamel...they will return to new looking condition...as this will eventually wear also..I point out the fact that "light" coats are the better way to go...these can be quickly wet sanded and then lightly coated to keep the lenses in a good optical condition. If your lenses are not heavily deteriated..maybe the scouring powder alone will be more than enough...then clear coat..I have save many a set of lamps with this method....

nothing if it is the style with the external reisitor....the industry when it went to 12 volts did not change everything over...gauges and coil are a couple items that were continued with the use of dropping resistors and CVR's. It was found that starting on 12 volts resulted in such a tremoudous spark and as it was just a few seconds burst of power..the coil could well handle the extra voltage as could the points...however continued use would eventually burn up a set of points and overheat the coil. So if you have a 12 volt coil for use with an external resistor..effectively you have a 6 volt coil..most resistors drop this voltage to 6.8 to 7.2 volt range as it is and matches well to the 6 colt charging circuit in your car. Polarity is also not a factor..it could care less...about the only thing you will visually see in the polarity aspect is the opposite side of the points pit..