greg g

If the throttle doesn't close, the idle circuit isn't in the equation. No amount of adjusting the idleair screw will have any effect. The throttle doesn't need to shut completely, you are actually supposed to use a thin drill bit as a gauge for the setting but unless the main linkage is closing and the float and needle and seat are working you are banging yer head against the wall. Is the linkagefrom the gas pedal allowing full travel of the fiddly parts?

I haven't gone through all the responses, but it haven't been suggested yet, you might want to do a vacuum gauge timing procedure. Second Chance garagehas a good how to on this technique. This uses intake manifold to find the optimum spot for your car's operating conditions. You did mention you corrected some issues inside the distributor . There is a wire connecting the points to the breaker plate. This is a snort many stranded flexible that allows the breaker to rotate freely from centrifugal and vacuum inputs. Many folks have found that wire in bad condition, insulation missing, broken strands, and or replaced by wire that is too thick to be as flexible as needed. Napa supposedly has replacements of various lengths.

Hey my october built . 46 has a fitment for a crank handle but no access through the grill just another of " use these till they are gone" things we find with change over models. If I remember, it was find a compression stroke as felt through the crank, retard the spark, pull out the throttle about a quarter of its travel, close the choke, and crank through that preselected compression stroke. That should have started a well tuned engine. Chokes didn't have a selfsetting high idle cam, so the throttle served that purpose. The things you might see in old movies where the star actor windmills an engine crank were part of the comedy sthict ofthe period. As far a as the throttle being needed on an electric started engine with a high idle set up, might have been a nod to the past to keep old timers happy in case the new fangled stuff didn't work. So it's any ones guess why there was a free wheeling knob and cable in the trunk of my car.

Could be anti clunk deal. Keeping down noise when the butterfly goes to one of the stops. Mine with the missing bi metallic spring. When you got off the as, it was audible when exhaust pressure went away and the counter weight would clunk against its stop.

Fully clockwise opens the flap which allows exhaust gas most direct exit. Heater core doesn't car which way flow goes. I set mine up so flap is welded in the clock wise position. I do have the heater return hose zip tied to the intake manifold. So driving in cold weather with the heater on provide s some warmth to the intake. This kind of mimics the set up of a couple of after market dual carb intake manifolds that are plumbed to accept coolant flow through the casting. OFFENHAUSER is one I think. I don't do much winter driving due to over use of salt in our area. But I have been out in 20s and 30s without problems. Depends alot on humidity also. Dual carbs draw only half of the air flow of single carb, so they might be less prone to evaporative iceing. I haven't experienced any issues with my shade tree solution. (Dual Carters on Fenton intake)

I have following this fellow for other content. Pete was at an architectural firm but recently ditched his 9 to 5 to take over his family's farm. I find his and his wife's approach to agricultur and life refreshing. Their care of animals, and his approach to mechanical bits neceessay to farming show a broad knowledge base as well as common sense. In the linked you tube post he begins reassembling the engine from his grandfather's 52 International Harvester farm truck. I know it's an OHV setup, but most procedures are applicable to a flat heads. So grab another cup of coffee and sit in in his shop. This is a two part post, the second part should be linked from there.

Get a hold of member Mark Duggan (mark@rdusaclassics.com). He has sourced rebuild parts for a couple OD's he rebuilt, and a couple sets of parts for others. He can also provide a list of part numbers if you would rather source common wear parts independently . My car runs a 56 Plymouth 230 with 225 r 75 15, 4,11 rear and overdrive. At 62mph it was turning ~3300. With OD its runs ~2400. And gets 19/20 mpg on the highway.

Assembly line foreman to engine builder " I don't care what the build card sez, USE THEM TILL THE DAMED BIN IS EMPTY!" " Are we clear on that? GOOD."9

Another variable, my 56 Plymouth 230 had a six bolt assementric pattern. Maybe to carry the overdrive? I used my 4 bolt (lightened) 46 flywheel. The od I found matched the 56 engine but I chose to use the light 4 bolt flywheel. 18K on the setup, no issues.

Talk about artistic license, look at the 37 illustrations. Compared to the actual cars, they look chopped channeld and lowered. Well they were trying to sell cars.

Three passenger rating is pretty optimistic especially these days. With me and my wife comfortably ensconced, there is barely room for our 25 pound dog between us. Folks must have been narrower in 1946. Thanks for attaching those pages. Quite interesting how in depth the descriptions were. Folks today are interested in USB ports cupholders,and how far the remote start can be from the car and still work.

Fuller brushes, Stanley Home products, Electrolux, Rainbow, and Kirby Vacuum cleaners, encyclopedias, bailer twine, milking machine parts. Life Insurance. Hormel Meats had a fleet of them painted up like their canned ham containers and a few done in Spam livery. NY City PD used them as radio patrol cars and in Traffic and Parking Enforcment units. Saw a pic of one with a slide out mini machine shop. Mine was owned by a fellow that sold farm implements, tractorsand tools. He had a garage full of die-cast models of his catalog/ brochure items. Some manufacturers labeled them as Doctors Coupes, most notably Buick and Packard. My service manual specifically refers to that body as business coupes differentialy seperate from the club coupe with the back seat. In 1940 and or 1941 there was an option for fold out occasional seats which faced to the side. I forget the term for those. The business coupe was the body that was built as the p15 convertibles. On the p15s the trunk lid was specific to the coupe and convertible. 20230116_141520.heic

You should have a knob and cable to disengage free wheeling. Its charm was only moderately usable in the thirties. I think its an over driven gear with a prawl to lock in or not. My choice these days is not.

Spiffy! I have a pair of wing tip brogue in nearly the same colors. I think they may be also known as spectators I think they were popular when your coupe was built. Great lookng car enjoy have fun!⁶ ,

I took my road test in a 54 Meadowbrook with three speed fluid drive. I used second gear for the bulk of the test using my right foot on gas and brake. Clutching only for reverse during parallel parking and three point turn. I used third once to go above 25 mph. He had me accelerate from a stop sign get up to 25 then stop and do a left hand turn. When we finished he said I had passed and complimented me on my smoothness. He said if he didn't know better he would have thought the car was an automatic.