John-T-53

I knocked out the heater holes in my firewall last month to install the 'new' model 61 heater and fresh air kit. The original paint on the firewall is in very good condition, and I started using the 4" knockout as a coaster. In between swigs last night, I noticed a very faint "529" on the engine side of the disc...looks like it was scribbled on with a paint marker before the cab got sprayed. These numbers match the last 3 numbers of my VIN on the frame. In addition to this mark, there's another two in the upper driver's side - a scribble in the paint (when it was wet), and another yellow grease pencil mark next to it. I find these marks really cool as they add to the vehicle's historical feel. Anyways, though I'd start a thread to post some pics of the various markings and how they might vary depending on year/build location. Although, these are hard to photograph. If you got good pics of factory signatures, share 'em!

Yeah, sounds like brushed or a loose connection somewhere in the motor. I'd imagine they would check the armature for shorts, etc too. Miy wiper motor was working slow before, and took a long time to get moving especially on cold days. It was a combination of old hardened grease and a bad ground. I ended up running a ground wire to the body because the connection at the mount bracket was a poor one. Works great now!

If you get new pieces made, check the fit of the glass in the windshield opening first, and note any excessive gaps before taking to the glass shop. This is what I forgot to do, and I have one corner that's a little "loose" as evident in the way the rubber seal meets the body.

I bought a 6v Die Hard battery about 6 years ago, installed a new regulator, and haven't had a problem since. I think the battery was about $50 at my local Sears. I hope they still carry these when I'm due for a new one, because it has led to a very high success rate at least in the electrical system of my truck.

These do look cool, but I agree the black background would be better. The best way to repaint the faces is by silkscreen method; some shops do this while it's beyond means of others. This speeedo shop in Michigan can go the whole nine yards, and they're pretty helpful on the phone: http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/about_bobs.asp I've dealt with Palo Alto Speedometer for my other ride - they did a great job replacing my speedo's jewell and calibrating it, but I didn't need any refinishing done. Expensive, though....

That is original maroon seat and door panel upholstery, unique to the '53 models. When you get it cleaned up a bit, snap some more pics so we can see the color come back to life. Does the truck still have the back panel and headliner cardboard? What model heater is in the truck? I don't recognize the type with both inlet and outlet at the bottom as shown in your firewall pic. My '53 doesn't have the grease hole plug, nor any clips at the grill seams. I'm not sure the plug was factory. Someone might have used a sink hole plug for this just for fun. Have fun with this ol' gal!

Thanks Rich. I've contacted the seller to see if these would be similar or identical in cross section to the B-series rails. I'd be good If I could use at least parts of them to repair mine. This is a stroke of good luck!

Set 'em looser as mentioned below. The cold setting doesn't have to be dead on as you'll have to adjust again when the engine comes up to full temp for the first time. In fact, the first hot adjustment might be good to set one or two thousands larger as the gap will naturally get tighter on a new engine (as the valves seat into place).

Thanks all. I've searched various repro mfr's for something that could be adapted but no luck. Closest thing was for a late '30's Ford car but they wanted $130 for a pair, and it's hard to tell from small images on websites what they actually look like in section. Not worth it. I agree this would have to be custom fabbed, just need the technology to do it...More like I need to find somebdy who has the tools to make them for me.

Too bad you're so far away... I have a good working 3 speed sitting on my garage floor with no home.

...IN '84!

Reminds me of George Costanza eating ice cream "on tv": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7MgaRS0MIE DD, I always appreciate your pictures. Keep 'em coming! I will be back in the area this September for another trip to Horton lake. This time we plan to do some hikes above 11,000' and maybe to the top of Mt Tom. Can't wait!

I ended up getting the seal from "fmmpar" on ebay which is actually AMS Obsolete. The sell a lot of other parts for B-Series trucks too. I noticed the DPCD letters cast into their seal and asked them about it - turns out they aquired original molds and are making new seals from this, hence the good fit. Only problem now is I'm having a tough time getting the weatherstrip adhesive to stick to the rubber.

Lokar makes a simple ball knobs w/ pattern inscribed. Theirs come with 3/8"-16 and 24 inserts and locknuts. I used their black know on my 5 speed stick and it looks and feeld great. VPW also sells knobs if you want a more original look.

Anybody ever have to replace theirs? Mine's completely rusted beyond repair, to the point where there's holes in the cab roof. My local body guy suggested I remove the drip rail completely and find a replacement. And of course, it would be best to find one that's as identical as possible to the original. So my question is...do you guys have any ideas on sources? Thanks,

This is where I had my Chevy's radio restored and FM converted: http://www.bobsradio.com/ Bob did a hell of a job and is a nice guy to deal with, very helpful on the phone. In all his years of vintage radios, even he has not seen a 610-T! Joel, your rig looks cool! Great job!

Sounds like a good strategy for buying a mattress too! Just saying that because I spent the past month looking for one. Ugh.

Great...thanks. I might be tempted to replace the new one I got from VPW. It looks good but doesn't seal completely. When it rains it leaks.

Is this gasket the solid rubber type or the rubber-covered sponge foam type (like a door weatherstrip)? I believe the original was the foam type, which would work better considering the common alignment and adjustment problems on most vents. Thanks,

Hey, don't forget the fluid drive hood emblems too! A 5 speed swap would be just about as much work, maybe a little less. I can't fully compare the two since I've never driven a fluid drive, but I really love my 5 speed w/ overdrive!

Mine are like yours, with the clutch slightly back, both touching the floor panel where it angles up. After the floors are in, the position of your engine (front to back) will affect the brake pedal position, in addition to the adjustment on the brake rod/clevis. What's most important is that the pedals are adjusted so they work correctly. You'll likely be visiting this area frequently when you first get your truck on the road.

Yeah I imagine just the tag was swapped to get the truck titled, who knows how long ago. There's no evidence of a cab swap, this thing is all original except for the 30 year old paint job, tires, and the work I've been doing to it. My title has the tag vin as the number it's registered under. I'd like to get build tags from Chrysler. I read somewhere on here how to request them and I'll have to look it up again. I think it was through the WPC museum? Or now we might have to contact Fiat ... Fix It Again, Tony!

I plugged it in: Serial Number 85325529 Year 1953 Make Dodge Model B-4-B Engine 217.76 Flathead Six Wheelbase 108, 116 Rating 1/2 Ton Engineering Code T306 Plant San Leandro, California Build Number 3529 All the same as the tag serial number except the build number.

I'd like to replace mine with the new version. I called them the other day about this and they were deer in the headlights on the issue. I was transfered to another dude and left a message, but never heard back. Gary, who was your contact over there? Thanks,

Merle - the door panels you have are just ABS with no vinyl cover over them? I'm thinking of making standard cardboard panels and then having them upholstered. Also trying to figure out how to put a real headliner in with bows as I don't like the original panel setup.