John-T-53

As it should be!

1 - This shows the Langdon bronze bushing pressed into the stock mopar bearing sleeve 2 - The throw out bearing assembly with the Chevy bearing retainer on the T5. You can also see the centering ring installed on the retainer flange. 3 - Disassembly of the clutch. I had originally though I got a bad t/o bearing because of intermittent sounds like something was loose everytime I disengaged the clutch. Turns out the clutch disc springs were hitting the damn flywheel bolts. Not sure why - same bolts as before and stock clutch disk. The flywheel was only surfaced about .050". 4 - The back of the flywheel showing the ends of the bolts "smoothed over". I had to get the dremel up in here to so a little cleanup before removing the nuts. 5 - The back of the bellhousing has some extra holes in it for what probably are for a 4-speed. This is a 3-speed truck so this was unexpected. Unfortunately, 2 of the 4 spd holes are partially where the T5 mount holes go. I took the bellhousing into the fabrication shop where they're trying to figure how to plug them before drilling and tapping new holes. They said it's tough to weld on cast iron because it gets very hard, making it difficult to machine. Last I heard they ordered a special alloy rod that would work.

Using the original 11" mopar clutch with a 10.5" 10 spline mustang disc. The pressure plate is relatively new/rebuilt and the flywheel was resurfaced about 6k miles ago. I think I can just scuff lightly it with my sander ... what do you all think? Yes you need the chevy front retainer for the stovebolt kit. Retainers are interchangeable between T5's.

Yes...let us know. I'm eager to see the outcome. Thanks,

This is the Chevy retainer as I received it from the builder. Looking at your pictures it looks like there were different lengths available. The retainer has to be similar length to the original transmission retainer, when used with the original clutch, so it can release fully. The retainer I have pictured below is about 1/8" shorter than the original when measured from the front of the case. I think it'll be fine but I'll do a mock up to make sure. I'll use the Dodge t/o bearing, with the stock bearing sleeve/holder..this is the good thing about Langdon's kit. The only thing to change is the clutch disc. I was able to find a 10.5" mustang disc on ebay for $49. My local NAPA told me suppliers are no longer selling discs separate. Now you have to buy the whole clutch kit!

Here's the official thread on the T5 installation in my half ton. After a year of planning and getting parts, I'm taking the plunge. Since my truck is my daily driver, and I'm required to use it more for work these days, the time for an upgrade is overdue. I've been getting a strong case of the 3rd gear blues with the ol' three speed, not to mention a few 'birds' on the freeway (altho that was more often in LA...sorry, Hank). This forum is where I got the idea, way back in my first post a couple years ago when I asked about switching rear end gear ratios. Thanks to all for your help and tons of great advice. I hope to finish in time to make the Clements get-together. Here's the tranny...built by a gentleman in Texas named Earl Johnson, with a recommendation from another member on the car side who also had one built. It's a Camaro box with S10 tail housing. The Camaro/Firebird box shares the same bolt pattern as the S10 which can be mounted directly to the truck bell housing. The gears are Ford Mustang 3:35 gear set with 0.72 OD, which should work perfect with the 4:10 rear. Also pictured here is Tom Langdon's adapter kit with ring, throw out collar bushing, and a ford pilot bushing. His kit requires the chevy front retainer, which I had to order extra.

I second that. I've used everything and PTFE thread tape works the best, especially on head bolts. I even used it on the spark plugs in combo with the ever-dry cups and it holds up well.

Interesting to note the stainless bolts are cheaper than the regular steel. For those of you who've done your beds, do these original bolts usually come off intact? I have to fix up my bed someday soon, and I have all the original bolts in place still. They've never been touched.

Does Alcoa or any of the newer aftermarket wheel mfr's make anything that would fit trucks of our era? I had a buddy who had a neighbor on his ranch with a '57 International 1-ton flat bed. He ran aluminum Alcoa's and they looked sharp. I'm not sure if he had modern hubs and suspention though, or original.

Yes, I like some of their paints, especially the "underhood black". The color and sheen is perfect. Just expensive and you have to pay/wait for shipping, as said. I'm going to look into the POR-15 silver. I have to pull the head again and replace the intake guides due to premature wear - and want to give it a fresh coat.

Chrysler is no longer making the Aluminum color engine paint. Just tried to order some more from Mancini and they said it's discontinued :-( Anybody got some laying around they'd like to give up? Or find a good match in a different brand? (it's touch-up time for my block) I always liked the idea of a mopar engine being painted with mopar paint, but with this news, doom and gloom is setting in.

Nice! Does the hood open to reveal an edible flathead too?

I also noticed from mine and the pics on here - the Steele rubber is flatter and rounder on the outside, where the Mopar rubber was thicker and more pronounced...it had a more defined ridge around the outside of the glass.

Pictures from the jobsite. I've been driving my slug to San Jose every week for construction meetings. Always gets a warm reception.

The unit at the carb is an actual fuel filter; and the one built into the fuel pump is just a sediment bowl (but it has a screen in it). I'm not sure about what Roberts sells but I plan to get an in-line glass bowl fuel filter like shown in the pic below. Danchuk mfg in Santa Ana, Ca (www.danchuk.com) has repro AC filters for chevys, but they're pretty much universal and could be plumbed to fit any fuel line. I've heard one of these can be ordered at Napa too, but haven't tried that route yet. ggdad, if you're doing a CAD dwg of that heat shiels, could I get a copy of the pattern? I need to make me one of those!

I used some of that felt material sold as a non-scratch pad for the bottoms of furniture legs. I got it at True Value - comes in packs of 2 3"x4" sheets, brown or green. Self-stick, but pop rivets will hold it in place after it gets soaked with oil. This material also works good for floor board seams and as a general anti-squeak application as needed.

3/8" is a lot of room. This sounds like the glass is partially to blame. If you pull the windshield out, hold the glass up to the opening - it may be a bit small. If you get another piece that's bigger it'll push the rubber lip out and probably cover the spots. This might be a lot easier and a lot less costly than filling them and repainting the cab.

My seal from Steele didn't cover all of the dimples too....I just figured it was because of the glass being cut a little small. It does look like the outside lip of the rubber is a bit smaller than the original, though. Let us know what they come back with.

Brown isn't my favorite color, but I do like the way it looks with the beige in the old Pacific Gas & Electric (PG&E) color combo on my truck. With the two-tone done this way, it surely makes the truck look a lot longer and lower than a solid scheme. Originally a dark green truck, I'm still on the fence whether to someday return to the original color or stick with this scheme. I've also thought about how the Dodge green would look with this beige...

Soda blasting seems to be the newest rage out there for stripping - it's gentle and doesn't harm the metal underneath, and doesn't require as much protection to adjacent areas as with sand. There will always be a lot of cleanup work with whatever stripping is used. Yes, sand especially. I sandblasted my Chevy 15 years ago in my parents' backyard with a setup like Reg described. I'm still getting some media fallout from body cavities, especially from under the cowl/dash, inside roof, and under the rear package tray. It took forever to clean out the bulk of the sand initially, using shovels, brooms, and eventually an air hose with shop vac combo. The backyard looked like the set of the Ten Commandments. Some lingering sand in the trunk got disturbed while in the paint booth even...made for an anti-slip paint finish!

I just did mine with a new seal from Steele. It fit perfectly - no complaints. I went with this one because it was fully vulcanized. The seal sold from Roberts is described in their catalog as "splice together type" which did not sound fun.

By chance do you have an extra under dash panel and any cables? That's all I'm missin' to hook mine up, which I bought from a member last year. Also looking for a fresh air cable.

What an odd sized wheel - I wonder why so narrow? The tires must be like pizza cutters!

I like this idea, but making strips out of the ply. I've always thought of going with a black bed floor so I can use it, abuse it, and leave the can of Pledge at home. Reg - Did you have to special order marine plywood? I've never seen it in the lumberyard. My gut is ply might be stronger than lumber here. Especially in 3/4".

That's neat the way the snow formed perfectly over the hood and fenders!