John-T-53

Hey, anybody recall the thread that had some pics of a grey airport tug in it? I thought I had it in my subscription list, but I don't see my thread subscription list anymore, and the "Content I follow" is blank. And an exhaustive search just now turned up "null"... I had a recent encounter with a tug in Tahoe and would like to post pics, preferably in that appropriate thread (and delete this one). Thanks, JT

Wow, lots of corrosion in there. I'd take a guess and say everything is toast except for the case and carrier. A member here may have a used rear end you could swap in. Or, as mentioned, upgrade to a "diff" rear end.

Steele has the windshield rubber with the best fit. They even re-tooled it a couple years ago to cover more of the pinchweld flange after suggestions from forum members.

Welcome! Where in the bay are you located?

...and that is why I'm generally unimpressed with any "car" shows on TV. The real focus is about making money, or the drama between the guys working on the cars, or something other than the car or process of working on it itself. They don't really get into the details or show good shots of what they're working on so you can get a good look at it. Same thing about Orange County Choppers - the majority of effort was spent documenting the fights between the Father and son, with the rest going to building the bike. The two shows I actually appreciated were "Shade Tree Mechanic" and "My Classic Car", No longer on the air...

They are only about the $$$

Ralph, I'd cinch that fitting into the block a little more. That might be your problem now. You don't have to lean on it, but use a wrench and give it a couple turns past hand tight. The flare fitting also should be very snug. Pipe dope is great like Don mentioned, even PTFE tape works good.

Jim - Tom Langdon also sells elec pumps, and could provide some advice related to them. http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/

You can get new tubes made from brass.

Looks like you have a "stubby' dipstick. Is that the end of it down there? This 'splains it then....The block dipstick hole just above the pressure relief valve must be for rear sumps, and the front sump pans must be "on the pan" only.

To downplay this whole radio debacle.... Radio's in these trucks are just for decoration anyway. It's too loud in the cab to be able to hear anything coming out of their speakers. Drivers often wear ear plugs. And....there are no free hands available to play with a radio anyway.

How about posting some pics on here so we can see what ya got. There's two dipstick styles that I know of, one goes directly into the side of the pan through a welded on sheath, the other goes through a small hole through the pan casting boss, straight down into the sump.

With a + ground, how do the plugs fire? The wiring suggests they still fire like a neg ground system, from the center electrode to the side.

API P Zn B SJ 1301 1280 151 CI-4 1150 1374 83 SL 994 1182 133 CJ-4 819 1014 26 SM 770 939 127 Source: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/

Zinc and Phosphorous are essential for older engines. The API grade SM oil you find on today's shelves has inadequate levels. You should shoot for 2500 ppm Z and 2000 ppm P. Amsoil has a line with higher Z/P levels as stated above. Joe Gibbs also has a line formulated for hot rods and old engines. You could also go with API rating of "SF" if you can find any old stock. Additives work well with new, non specialty oil. ZDDP Plus has little 4 oz bottles that does it for 5 quarts. Crane cams and other MFRs also have break in additives with high zinc. but you usually have to add a whole quart to your crankcase. BUT...What other additives are in in that quart that you don't necessarily want in your engine?

Ocean City....the other end of HWY 50!

It doesn't look like retirement will be an option for us "young folk" anyway... :-/

Been driving this one regularly to work since 2010. Here it is at Leigh High School in San Jose last summer while checking up on a paving project. I got a new job last fall and the commute went to 35 miles each way, three days a week. It was tuff! I have since upgraded to another vehicle, but the truck gets better gas mileage! Ear plugs required!

It's simple...the radiator just bolts to the core support with its angle tabs that are part of the side frame of the radiator. there are (3) 3/8" fine thread bolts each side. It helps to chase the threads on the weld nuts on the core support first. The core support is bolted from the side to the filler panels - these are either 3/8" or 5/16" bolts or a combo of both. There are also the two bolts at the bottom that hold the core support (and the front clip) to the frame. I think these might be 7/16" bolts.

Haha!

I wouldn't lose any sleep over the civil defense marks. Probably better to have them anyway especially now with Putin and his shenanigans. I wonder if they'd work equally well for isis, Tehran, or Kin Jung Un? lol

looks like a Willys Aero parked next to the Studebaker sedan. Cool little cars. The dude I bought my truck from owns one.

This one has "living" patina on it....all that lichen. Who can say they've successfully cultivated a garden on the surface of their truck? lol This tells us that the truck is facing south ... That's a unique ash tray it has...never seen one like that before! Did the tree grow into the tail gate or was the truck backed up against it?

Ah... far out, man

The bezel is pretty big, what if you just cut the dash so the knobs will fit. Will the bezel cover all of the cut outs and leave enough "meat" left to mount it? I know you don't want to cut anything up, and you've probably already thought of this....Just trying to think of an option that would allow you to keep it!