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John Zellmer

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Las Cruces, NM
  • My Project Cars
    Trying to get a 1950 B2B back on the road: complete engine rebuild, new oak bed, power disc brakes on front (for wife's peace of mind), all new wiring, electrical windshield wipers, three-point seat belts, lotsa welding and minor body work, etc., etc.

Converted

  • Location
    Las Cruces, NM
  • Interests
    B2B

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    retired geological engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

709 profile views
  1. Greetings, I even bought new glasses, but still can't find brake-shoe-to-drum clearance or tie rod and drag link torque values for my B2B. Would appreciate any help. Thanks John
  2. Jeff, I purchased the recommended drums and had the flange machined 3/8" as directed. Everything is great until I tighten the hub nut. The tighter the nut, the more the drum rubs and with sufficient torque (about 40 ft-lb) the drum locks. I installed a homemade 1/8" spacer plate between the drum and hub. This helps, but doesn't solve the rubbing/lock-up problem. I've tried placing colored chalk on various surfaces to determine what is rubbing against what, but with limited success. I'm considering increasing the space thickness to 1/4" or having the drum flange machined further. Any suggestions from anyone before I give the machine another $70?? Thanks John
  3. Fowl Jeff, This is exactly the solution I was looking for, even put out a call on the Forum for a modern drum that would accept the hub a couple of months ago, but no luck. I'll order the drums today. Thanks John
  4. Guys, Anyone have one or two usable rear brake drums? Also, I found a shop in Illinois (?) that can refurbish mine for about $330 each. Any thoughts if this is a good/safe idea? Anyone know of any other shops that do similar work? Thanks John
  5. Jeff,

    I noticed in your post that you converted to four-wheel disc brakes.  Would the kit fit a B2B?  If so, who sells it?  I've already converted the front end and have been searching for a rear kit.  My rear drums brakes are driving me crazy.

     

    Thanks

    John

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. Jeff Balazs

      Jeff Balazs

      John;

      :lol: I have over the years made a lot of people cry......at least this time it was in a good way. Let me know if you have any more questions....if I can help I am happy to.

      Jeff

    3. John Zellmer

      John Zellmer

      Jeff

       

      Thanks for the info.  What year Grand Cherokee rear end?  That's probably the way to go, especially since I don't plan to tow any 18-wheeler trailers with my 4.10 gears.

       

      Thanks again.

       

      John

    4. John Zellmer

      John Zellmer

      Jeff

      Thanks again.  You are likely to hear from me next time a problem pops up.

       

      John

       

       

  6. In serious need of a rear brake drum for my B2B. I've been thinking about separating the hub from the drum and replacing the drum with one that's more available. Anyone have any ideas about what I could use? I know that some Dodges from the '60s are also 11" X 2", but don't know they would fit. Would appreciate any help. Anyone know where I could get a replacement B2B drum? Thanks John
  7. Thanks for the replies. I agree that the master is leaking internally, but I had concern that the 1" bore was too small for the application. Talked with Speedway Motors and they think the 1" bore is OK. Shipping the old one back for a new one! John
  8. Hi Guys, I know this question has been asked and answered dozens of time, but I still can't get my brakes working. Work done: New disc brakes on front, new master cylinder with 1" bore and 1.1 inch stroke mounted at frame level, new rear brake cylinders, all new brake lines, proper residual pressure valves, system pressure bled several times using about 1.5 quarts of fluid - NO AIR REMAINS in lines. I don't have the proper brake adjusting tool, but made one based on example found in old forum post using PVC "T" fitting with steel rod and adjustable steel tab, shoe-to-drum gap is about 0.015 inches all around. Problem: Brake pumping won't get more than about half pedal and goes to floor if foot pressure maintained . Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, John
  9. Hi, RockAuto handled the rebuild of my B2B box. It was completely worn out and required machining of new parts. Total cost was about $450.
  10. Davin, Thanks. I look forward to receiving them and appreciate your help. John
  11. Thanks to all that responded to my need for door latch springs. I have them on order. John
  12. Jeff,

    Thanks for the reply.

    John

  13. Hi there Desotodav from the land down under,

    I'm interested.  My email is jtzinlc@gmail.com.  Looking forward to hearing from you.

    That's a beautiful blue truck yo have there.  Makes me jealous.

    I've been delaying putting the doors back together until I have springs I can trust.

    Thanks,

    John (from the desert southwest of the US) 

     

    1. Desotodav

      Desotodav

      Hi John,

      I will email you tomorrow morning as I'm working long shifts with unusual hours at present. I sent that reply to you at 2am (our time) this morning just before I left work.

      I had a few stainless steel door latch spring sets for our trucks made up a while back and still have some left. It's probably easier to explain them to you with photos in an email. I have sent a few door latch springs over to guys in USA and they have all been happy.

      Thanks for the compliment on the blue 52 Desoto truck. I told the original owner that I would restore it to the same as the day he bought it, so it was a lengthy and expensive project. I'll be back down to take him for a drive next year for his 100th birthday. He and I actually share the same birthday - but he will be 100 and I will be 50. The other truck which I am building at present will also be a 'head turner' . It is a 53 Dodge coupe truck - there is a build thread on the forum but I haven't updated it for a while.

      Will chat on email soon.

      Regards

      Davin (aka Desotodav)

  14. I've noticed old posts regarding nonavailability of door latch springs, but there wasn't much resolution about a source. Anyone have any ideas? I would like to replace both springs in each latch assembly with NOS or newly made. Thanks John
  15. I discovered yesterday that the new cylinders were improperly drilled, which was blocking fluid flow. Deepened the holes and now I have juice to all four rear cylinders. Also had to hone the cylinders because they were too tight. Still having bleeding problems, but that's another story. J
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