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John-T-53

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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. John-T-53
    I remember reading about disassembling the carrier in the shop manual and recalling it looked like a biotch! I think there's a special spanner tool or something needed to unscrew the cover plate...? Plus, it's probably torqued on there like an SOB... Any situation like this where you have a large diameter screw-in cap ain't easy. My father in law recently had a hell of a time getting the "cap" off a hydraulic ram for his tractor flail mower attachment, just to replace the seal.
  2. John-T-53
    HAHAHA!
  3. John-T-53
    bolts....
  4. John-T-53
    They are behind the backing plates. The look like thin wheel spacers. The bolts that hold the backing plates to the housing go through the shims.
  5. John-T-53
    The backing plates are easy - remove the brakes with them. Keep note of the shims on each site. While you're doing that, might as well replace the inner and outer seals on each side too, and repack the axle bearings. I think this is where Ed's PVC pipe trick comes into play, for getting the axles out?
  6. John-T-53
    Excellent! I could see many other places where that'd look good too - mantle, above garage door, bed headboard, etc....
  7. John-T-53
    Ah, that makes sense. Did you do this in-block? As far as performance, bronze guides are an important part. Cooler running valves, very little wear, and reduced friction.
  8. John-T-53
    Hey Marty, Did you make the bronze guides out of blanks? Or start with something similar? I'd like to eventually make a set. The iron guides available these days come with too big ID's so you're boowin' oil from the start. Plus iron/stainless ain't the best combo.
  9. John-T-53
    Aluminum conducts electricity better than steel. It was probably the interface between the light bracket and bed, and/or the bed to frame/positive battery terminal that was hindering the path. But a tail light ground wire to the frame is a good idea anyway. Corrosion will always be a problem on those exposed tail lights. On my to-do list here.
  10. John-T-53
    Bigger is better!! Great photos, thanks for sharing!
  11. John-T-53
    Locked and loaded!
  12. John-T-53
    Ditto on VPW. I got all my engine rebuild parts from them. And plan on getting a new 10" clutch from them also.
  13. John-T-53
    Hagen's has a truck page...it's a little hard to navigate to though (link below). They seem to have all the right stuff in stock. For 53, They list the front cyls as 1-3/8" straight bore which is what I recall from rebuilding them on my truck. If you look for a pre-1953 truck they show stepped cyls 1-1/4" x 1-3/8". http://hagensautoparts.com/dodge-truck/
  14. John-T-53
    I can't remember an exact figure, but it didn't break the bank. The bigger issue was the fuss of packaging and sending. Didn't take much time, though, and didn't delay the rebuild as the crank guy was the holdup.
  15. John-T-53
    At least on these engines, there's no dang push rod! Last time changing the pump on my Chevy 283 I screwed up big time and tightened the pump misaligned with the rod, and bent the rod. I finally realized my flub when the motor wouldn't start... :-/
  16. John-T-53
    I had mine coated with the thin coating on the recommendation of my machinist. Here's some photos. It'll be interesting to see what they look like next time I have it apart (hopefully not in a long time). These are Badger Pistons sourced from VPW. .002" clearance to walls, installed.
  17. John-T-53
    I hereby claim responsibility for the E-Z-out attempt. Since it's broken off on both sides, it would screw out either direction, IF it turned that is. Yep, drilling it the answer from here on out...
  18. John-T-53
    Well, keep on drillin'!
  19. John-T-53
    If it rotates at all, maybe a big E-Z-out? Probably a long shot tho...
  20. John-T-53
    post another pic of what you have now, from the outside. You don't want to remove the hanger if you don't have to!
  21. John-T-53
    Could you cut the shackle enough to allow 360 degree rotation with no interference? Looks like it's almost worn through at the top (common). If not, it might be loose 'nuff in there to just pound it out. You could then cut the bushing as mentioned and extract it from the frame mount. x2 on Rare parts, this is the only supplier I would buy new suspension parts from.
  22. John-T-53
    Interesting if not pipe thread (and tapered). It should be though, that's what would actually seal in an application like this. Straight threads would leak unless it has a head and a washer like a brake hose or oil pan plug. A machine shop or engine parts supply might be a source. Also, try McMaster-Carr... Good luck!
  23. John-T-53
    Another option is coating your old parts to mitigate clearance issues if not that bad. HM Elliott in N.Carolina does coatings on pistons and bearings. They have two types of coatings for the skirts - a general dry-film low-friction coating that a few tenths (0.0000") thick, and a "buildable" coating designed to decrease clearance with the cylinder walls.
  24. John-T-53
    THANK YOU SIR! That reminds me... I need to add a few things to the topic to bring it up to date. Things have come up during the last couple years that need to be shared.
  25. John-T-53
    Thanks Hank. I wanted to post a link here but now I can't find that content anymore. It was under the "old" forum, around 2011. I can't seem to search by "topics started by (me)". So maybe it is lost? :-(
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