John-T-53

My only comment is regarding using the foil-backed jute under the floor mat. It absorbs water (when water gets in the cab) and its durability is marginal. I eventually will replace with a non-absorbent product. Have to do some research. The plastic firewall pad I got from them is excellent, however. It sure cleans up nice.

Looks like a good shop that is old car friendly. Are they good to deal with? I could go there on my lunch break. I just lost my go-to radiator & AC shop up in San Carlos (San Carlos Radiator), the owner sold out to some swindlers up in Millbrae. They want $250 for an AC charge. For sh*ts sake....

Far out, thanks! I might have to get me a couple.

Joe, if you happen to see this, what is the part number? 6006?

Happy New year everyone! I would like to take this opportunity to make my 1000th post (finally) in one of my favorite recurring forum topics. Boo-yow! Also, THIS is the year I would like to see Mark, Merle, Jeremiah, and Todd (the back to the 50's gang) caravan out to Clements from the upper mid west in their B-series Dodges!

5/16" fine thread bolts can be found at the local hardware store, if you're not picky on what they look like. I think McMaster-carr and other online hardware dealers sell a recessed head 5/16" bolt which looks more like OEM. They also sell the peripheral tooth lock washers which are used on all sheet metal assemblies on these trucks. The only difference in this case would be the "DPCD" logo on the head.

Glad to hear it all worked out!!! I didn't think these pedals would bend easily. I thought they were forged or something...but I guess they're just plain old cast....?

There are specific connecting rods that go with the 230 crank. I like the gray color on these engines. I think that's what most of the industrial motors came in.

Second rebuild. Before installing in truck, 2012. Also some shop pics.

I really like the idea of copper heater lines. I need to run similar lines when I install my Langdon cast headers. If you see this, any chance you could post some more pics of your heater lines? Are they compression fittings at ea end?

Front left bushing should be hard rubber as well (to minimize cab movement and pedal rubbing). I've heard that a hockey puck works great for making a new one! If yours is split, one would conclude that it's made of the more flaccid type of rubber.

Great color combo, love it! Looks very clean. That under-seat compartment would be great for storing a side arm.

I'm sure it would, however I would prefer to keep the electrical system separated.

Have any of you seen some of the tailgate LED light bars on new trucks? They are aftermarket but I think they look cool. I doubt there's a 6-volt option out there but I would like to see if it's possible to install one of these someday...

Make sure the motor has a good ground to the dash. This is often painted or rusty, or both. I forget if there's a ground wire but I remember the motor bracket contact to the underside of the dash being the culprit in mine. After cleaning it down to bare metal, the motor worked like new.

I think that individual is also a member here. I've seen that one before...

Even though Jim is your officially designated 'huckleberry'... ...I'll be in and out of your hood in the months ahead. As long as I can give ample notice, I can come and go from the Lockeford homestead without seeming like I'm using the in-laws' house as a bus station....lol

Exactly. They do make a nice bolt-in OD for the Torqueflite, but then again it's the initial cost that's way outta line.

Sarcasm detectors were not operational. I was gonna say you'd need to be an octopus to do all the shifting you talked about in your previous post, plus enlist a couple of trunk monkeys to jump out of the bed and change the rear wheels, roadside! On the subject of OD's, Gear Vendors has another option if you want to drop the coin, but after looking into it, I deemed it not the best solution for our trucks. They offer a "divorced mount" unit which is the option for trannys where they don't make a bolt-on unit. Cost: $3000 and up. And No, this was not an intentional innuendo....

The only difference between a standard 4-speed and a 3-speed bell housing are the holes. So, that's two castings for the light duty trucks, at least: standard bellhousing and the FD. I'm unsure if the FD housing would work with a late model transmission due to the length. The input shaft options would have to be studied for your retrofit tranny. Merle, how much longer is the FD? I see your spare is drilled for both the 3 and 4 speed. Tim, how does the shift linkage work on the 833? Have any pics? Also, what does the bolt pattern of this tranny look like? Maybe the holes would all fall within the "meat" of the standard bell housing so you could just drill it out?

Jeff, thanks. As you want to do I retained my rear end because I couldn't handle two projects at once. I now have about 15,000 miles on my transmission, all it has needed was an oil change and a new engine. I talked to the guy that built my T5 (Earl Johnson) and asked him about ratios. The following gear sets would be ideal for your truck with the 3.55 differential: 3.76, 2.37, 1.49, 1.00, 0.86 3.76, 2.18, 1.42, 1.00, 0.81 This would give you full range on every gear. Nothing would be a "granny" gear or anything hardly used. The top set would give you slightly more torque, the bottom slightly better for highway driving. He confirmed that a T5 could be built with those gear sets. Spline count TBD and you could chose between a "non world class" or "world class" version of the T5.

Jeff: The T-5 with the truck tailshaft will clear the bench seat. Check out the link to my T-5 project in my preceding post. Lots of pictures. Also, if you come up to the Clements get-together next April I'll let you take my truck for a spin. You'll like it, I guarantee it.

Welding only required if your bell housing is drilled for an original 4-speed. http://p15-d24.com/topic/23955-t5-project/ How do the side shifters work on the 833?

I would think it is easier to stick to a manual. Having done one, it was a lot of work and cost some dough, but not "that bad" really. The "aok boys" are touting the 833 transmission in the blog section as their preferred five speed over the BW/Tremec T-5. I don't know much about the 833, it might be a good li'l box...but the T5 with the right gear setup is perfect for our trucks, when done correctly. And you don't need an adapter plate (just a bell housing in your case, Jeff).

Wilcap makes trans adapters for the flat six, unfortunately only for GM turbo-hydros though: http://www.wilcap.com/chryslerfh.html As suggested by others I would prefer a Torqueflite 727 as well, if going the auto route. "Keep your Mopar all Mopar" I think changing your rear end to a 3:73 would be your easiest move at this point, for better drivability.