47heaven

It's slightly lifted' date=' but still somewhat attached. When I close the door tight, it goes back into place. [/size']

Hey guys...thanks for the imput. I went and checked to see if the rubber hose was connected, and it was. The only thing is that it wasn't a rubber hose, but a thin plastic one that I noticed was kinked where it came out and bent along the firewall. I figured that was as the problem, but when I disconnected the hose from the cowl drain I didn't notice any water in there that might have been backed up from last week. Nonetheless, I went and replaced it with 1/2" heater hose that slipped on nice and didn't kink. Before slipping it on I put a pipe cleaner through the drain and it didn't appear clogged. Now, I have attached some pics I just took showing the vent door closed. It looks to off alignment somewhat on the passenger side (see pics). I noticed when I had taken the cowl vent assembly out that there were 2 sets of bolts I had to take out on each side, besides the main armature in the middle for the lever. Each side to seem to have two small arms connected by the two bolts that went through long slots on each arm to allow adjustment, I asssume. Would these be the connectors that adjust each side of the vent, and is this why the vent door isn't sitting straight? Also, in one of the pics (with the vent open) you can see that the corner of the vent opening some of the rubber gasket seems to be lifting slightly. How would I fix this so that I wouldn't have to pull the gasket all off and do it all over again?

After replacing the cowl vent rubber with a new one, I am still getting water leaking through it and dripping onto the floorboard. There's an adjustment on the lever, but not sure where exactly it's supposed to be adjusted too. Is there some rubber that goes around the bottom of the cowl vent door or can some be placed there to allow a better seal? Who else has had issues with this and how did you solve it?

Last week, I had installed a new battery and alternator, and since then I have noticed that at night time, while the car is idling, the lights are at a certain brightness, but when I rev up the engine they get brighter and then dime back down after I let off the gas. I thought this wasn't supposed to happen with a 12v system, especially with a new battery and alternator. Any ideas of what's causing that?

My front and back seats cost a total of $480 with material and labor. I had checked out LeBarron Bonney at first, but realized that I wasn't going to sacrifice two paychecks for interior. I also decided that the original broadcloth pattern used on the P-15's wasn't much to my liking, as it resembled a man's suit. I found an upholstery shop in Pomona, California run by a Mexican gentleman who had been doing upholstery since the 1950's. He saw my car and I told him what look I was looking for. He showed me a roll of gray striped hi-lo material that he had in the back. I was afraid he was going to bring out the typical crushed velvet crap, but what he showed me looked very period correct...almost like NOS stuff from the late-40's. I asked him how much he would be willing to sell 9 yards of material for my seats and panels. He told me the only way he would sell it is if I had him do the work. He quoted $4500 to do the whole interior (seats, panels, floor and headliner). That was way out of my range, so asked him how much for just the seats and he quoted me at $400. After all was said and done, he realized that he had undercharged me, but kept up his bargan because it's what he quoted me. He did exceptional work and the material is very well made and should last for years.

Norm...I still have the trans that I was in the car when I got it. As far as I remember, it was still a good trans. Since so many things were swapped out on that car, I don't know if the trans was part of the original '47engine or from the '55 Ply engine that was in there. How would one know?

Ok...did some venturing into this sound this weekend with a buddy of mine, who is good at picking out engine noises and such because he works with gears. He determined that the sound it's making are definately coming from the needle bearings, like lancair90 had mentioned. I did add more gear oil (it was a little low), and that helped the sound a little, but it's still present. I assumed that the O/D trans has never been rebuilt. My buddy said that I can still drive the car the way it is, but the bearings are only going to get worse with time, so unfortunately a rebuild will be needed soon. Thanks for all your imput! Are there Borg-Warner R-10 rebuild kits out there still?

Yeah, it has a similar sound to what you describe, but again, the sound goes away when I push the clutch in, but continues when I let the clutch out. This I can only hear at idle because when I'm driving there is too much noise between the engine and glasspacks to hear anything.

Not so much as when it's at idle. Again, the noise stops when I push in the clutch (not depress)

Whoops...human error there. I meant when I let off the gas pedal. Gotta stop typing so fast. So what's your diagnosis, Don?

Well, what I have been hearing is a low bearing noise, or at least what I think is a bearing noise, as the car is in idle and out of gear. When I step on the clutch, the noise stops and then starts again when the pedal is depressed. More kind of a hovering sound, if anything.

What are some early signs that it will be going out soon?

I just replaced mine with one similar to this. http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/45404.jpg

Winter storage? What's that?

I think it looks "far out!" One thing about a brush is can paint with greater detail.

It looks good, but you can still see brush strokes. Better to spray paint it.

Oh...I forgot....you may want to spray some primer on before you spray the paint. Let us know how they turn out, ey?

Are you taking it off to paint or painting it on the car? What I learned on here is clean it real well from any dirt and grease then put vasoline on the faces of the letters and sides of emblem, being sure that you don't get any on the part that you are painting red. Then, spray paint (not brush) over the emblem a couple coats. Let dry and then simply wipe off the vasoline and you should have a professional-looking painted emblem. It worked for me.

You can't...UNLESS someone here has an extra to sell of once in a blue moon once shows up on Ebay. I bought two small 12v accessory lights from Auto Zone and installed them in mine; one in the front and one in the back.

Remember....this is Texas, folks...consider the source. LOL!

Are those the ones that are kind of cone-shaped?

I went to radials (not by choice), but looking back I'm sure glad I did. Since I like to drive my car a lot, I was wearing out the bias ply whitewalls fast. I assume that bias ply whitewalls are more for show and not the everyday driver. As already mentioned, you will sure appreciate how well they handle on the highway and the fact that you don't get thrown around everytime you drive over a crevice on the freeway. At first, I kinda felt that the radials gave my car more of a custom look, which I didn't want, but now that I have the steel whitewall rings on there the tires look more to original specs.

Norm....nothing wrong with "Sh-boom," I mean it's great song, but looks funny on a car....kind of the stereotypic "malt shop 50's." LOL! Joe...go ahead and put "Sh-Boom" on your car...don't let me stop you. Maybe at the same time you can also put "Sweet Little Sixteen" on the other side.