47heaven

That was the "old days," Don. If it comes in a kit now...why not go with the flow, I always say.

Okay guys...this is why I thought I should ask first. Thanks! Any recommendations on a complete trans rebuilt kit and where to get it?

Hey, saw this on Ebay and was wondering if it's complete, from what you can tell. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1940-41-42-46-47-48-Plymouth-Dodge-Transmsn-Repair-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5638124f96QQitemZ370307911574QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I was looking up a source for phosphorus paints online, but kept coming up with paints that last for only two days and every other color but white. From the driver's side it's hard to see the hands at night. I just thought that these hands were once painted with a glow-in the dark paint, but that may have come later on in the 50's.

I noticed that when I installed a light into my clock, the face lights up nice, but the hands stay dark because no light reflects on them. Were these hands originally painted with a glow-in-the-dark paint of some sort? How did one see the hands in at night?

Yes, they do. That's why I had them do the brake system for me because all they do are brakes.

I wish it was that easy, but there are not many shops around here locally that specialize in old cars of our vintage or have a mechanic that understands are cars. I would love to see how it's done, but if I'm directed to wait in the waiting room, then I will have to wait there with the others who are not allowed to go into the bay area, as well. If they have a question about the car that they want to make a decision on, then most likely they would call me in to show me.

So what you are saying, Tom, is that the throttle spring touching the wire loom is causing the vibration? It's not a matter of noise. I don't quite understand what you mean. It's vibration from the engine that is felt through out the car when I accelerate, not noise.

You are right, Rich, but some places, for insurance purposes, do not allow customers in the bay area, such as the place I will be taking my car to have the adjustment. They have a waiting room for the customers.

Tim...what you say makes good sense, just like what everyone else has said. I think I will take it in for adjustment, since I have a lifetime free adjustment on the brakes from the place that did the rebuild on the system. If that solves the problem, then I'm good to go. If not, then I will proceed with the other options mentioned. I drove the car in heavy rain yesterday and when the brakes got wet in the front it really pulled to one side when the brakes were applied. I'm assuming because that was wet, of course. cwcars88...the master cylinder was rebuilt and resleeved two years ago. Also, no leaks are seen from it.

Motor mounts were replaced four years ago.

Yes, Fred, the pedal seems to have more pressure when I pump it a couple times and doesn't touch the floor, but will slowly sink. I will do a brake bleed on it, and I'm sure they are up for adjustment, since it's been almost a year since new shoes were installed in the front. Let's see if this works and I'll get back to you. Thanks!

No, no noise with the vibration. The driveshaft is a modern one that was installed four years ago. Idle is kind of rough when first started, but gets a little better when it's warmer. The vibration occurs whether it's cold or warm...only when the accelerator is pushed, and also at all speeds. Gas miliage was 17-19 mpg. Not sure what it is now. The engine hasn't been tuned since it was rebuilt...four years ago. I am running an electronic ignition in the car.

I've noticed lately that when I have to stop the brake pedal almost goes to the floor. The car will stop, but I have to pump a couple times to get brake pressure and keep the pedal from touching the floor. I checked the brake fluid, and it's fine. There is no sign of leakage from the master cylinder. So I'm assuming that it may be air in the line, but who knows?

Trying to analyze what could be causing a vibration when I accelerate, but when I let off the gas it stops as it's coasting. Is this a sign tghat I'm due for a tune up or one of the cylinders is not firing? Don't know where to begin? Any ideas?

Yeah, I just bought some things for him today. Real nice guy and is producing a lot of rubber replacement parts for our cars. I gave him the address to this forum and he will be showing what he has for sale. Now, I have all the bushings I need for the sway bar.

I'm rebuilding my front end and saw these for sale. They are not rubber, but urethane. Do you think these will work as well as rubber? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110478628115&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

This comes as very surprising and sad news. Norm always gave me very helpful advice, and I even purchased some parts from him. He was a very nice man. He will greatly be missed on here. My condolences to he and his family during this sad time of mourning.

Ok, after days of searching and not coming up with exactly what I need, I turned to Andy Bernbaum for the front end parts...he had all of them. Also, got some upper and lower arm bumpers, as well. Let's hope I made the right move by getting the parts from him.

Yeah, Norm. That looks more like mine. I wonder if anyone has an exploded diagram of the whole steering system.

Ok...here's the run down. I checked numerous places for the tie rods and king pins. Napa, Rock Auto and Car Quest carried some of the things, but they didn't have complete sets of tie rod ends that they could order. I tried another place called Brother's Auto Parts, and though they located the tie rod ends and king pin set, but when all was said done, it came close to $300 just in parts. It looks like Berbaum is the guy that has everything I need, and at a better price, as well. I couldn't tell if he had the right rubber bushings for the sway bar because it mentions upper and lower, and all I see is about three total along the bar. What do you guys think? Can I trust the parts from him to be good quality? I always hear bad things about him, so I don't know if I should take a chance or not, but it seems I have no choice. Kanter may also have the parts, but I'll have to look. Rich, thanks for looking up the insulator set for me. Norm, the brackets that hold in the bushings are bolted in. Is the insulator pad that important? How about if I use a piece of rubber from a 1/4" heavy duty thick sheet?

Looks like that kid was planning to break in to that '39. He sure looks like he got caught red-handed.

Thom...unfortunately, you are not going to see a lot of 40's cars out here in California unless that have been customized, hot rodded and or chopped. Not sure if that is what you are looking for or want to see more stock and original ones, which are even more scarce. Also, at most of the car shows out here you really have to look for them amongst the sea of '55-'57 Chevys, Corvettes, T-Birds and Chevelles.

Hey guys...hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Year's. Have been off for a while but ready to get back into the swing of things. Anyway, took the Plymouth in to have an alignment done on it. As I was watching the mechanic testing the front end by moving the tire and wheel back and forth, he noticed a lot of play. I told him that The car had a viberation at speeds over 50 mph. As he kept checking, he noticed something alarming; the stearing box was coming loose from the frame. It really shook me up because I don't know how long I had been driving it like that, and the day before I had 4 people in the car, including myself, going down the freeway. He told me that if it had come loose it could have been a tragic situation. So he tightened it and tried the shaking the wheels again, and even though there wasn't much looseness anymore, there was still a lot of play on both sides. Long story short...I need to have the front end rebuilt. Anyway, this is what I need to replace.....inner and outer tie rod ends for both sides, as well as new king pins. The stablizer bar could use new bushings as well. He told me that those items should be enough to stablize the front end and make it safe. Is there anything else that should be replaced, as well? Also, where do I start looking for these parts? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance. Darin