desoto1939

most of the FP and assuming that you have an AC588 FP put out approx 4-7 LBS of pressure. So not sure if you will need a fuel regulator. If you have an electric FP onthe back near the gas tank sometime they can put out more pressre so then you might need a regulator. The electric FP that is near my gas tank puts out arounf 4-6 LBS. I have a 39 Desoto. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Sniper I do have a brass 25 inch long water tube and several galvanized WD tubes. Not sure who made the brass WD. If AB has one for $47 i doubt if its brass. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

So if it does not work thenyou have to take the water pump off again and then purchase the correct WD tube. So is your time worth anything and the potential aggrevation of R&R everything. With the correct unit you know that the water willbe evenly distributed. Compare this to what ever you have already spend onother things for the car or truck. Just my 25cents worth of input Rich Hartung

Basically what I was trying to originally when I posted the information was trying to provide some education to any new owner that has a 6 volt car or truck and to provide them with information as two why to use the larger cables instead of the standard 12 volt cable that everyone goes and purchases at their local NAPA or AutoZone store. By showing the information they might understand the reason for the larger cable. I have another Auto-Lite Wire and able catalog and Autolite recommended Size 1 for all of the Pre-war and Post war cars upto 1948 this catalog only goes to 1948 and stops but we all know that the same cable would be used until they switched to 12v electrical systems. I also just scanned two pages from my MoPar factory parts catalogs two pages for Starter and Ground Battery Cable also note that Mother MoPar used number 1 cables. But also note that on the starter cable they had a section of the cable that was covered with an external spring wrapping just like on the original brake lines where they were exposed to potential damage. The ground cable did not have the extra coil of outside spring protection. So the next time you go to an AACA car show that is judging cars look real close at the battery cable to see if they have the correct cable with the spring covering probably 99 percent will not have the correct cables. So education is important to know how out older cars were delivered from the factory. So when Hershey states that they are looking for cars like they came from the factory I really doubt that there ever is a 100 point car because of the small little items that have gotten overlooked or know one educated the judges on this area. The file was too big to load but if you would like a copy I will email it to anyone. Desoto1939@aol.com

I recently dug out an older catalog that i had from The Autolite Battery corporation and in one of the sections it talks about the Effect of Cable Size on Cranking. It shows the various sizes of cable and then lists the amount of current each size cable will carry and how that gets diminished as you go to undersized cable. It also talks about the proper terminal ends and the application of grease and not using grease on the terminal ends. Basically they do not recommend brass or bronse terminal ends because they will corrode faster then the lead type and if using the bronze or copper coated with grease if they have lost their lead coating. For you new antique car and truck owners the information is a must read to understand the difference between 6v and 12 v battery cable and why you need the larger cable. The entire catalog is very interesting to read Here are the two pages on battery cable. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Battery Cable Size.pdf

It really does not matter about 12 o clock high. The point is that when you slide the shaft back into the hole it will meet up with the slot inthe oil pump slot. So you either will be dead on or 180 out od sequence. The next time you take the dizzy out of the car mark onthe block a reference point with chaulk some point of the dizzy body. then pull the cap off and note the location of the roto and mak another mark. This way when youput the dizzy back into the engine block you can set the shaft to the location of where the rotor originally was prior to taking it out and also have a ref point at the the body of the dizzy. Again you will have to make slight adjustment to time the engine but at least the car should start and then fine tune the dizzy. Mother MoPar made it easy to re install after taking it out. Rich Hartung

Slickster: I think I replied to your post with the correct front and rear brake springs for your car and they are listed on ebay. The floating type that you are showing is not correct. Rich Hartung

Since you have a 6v system you will need both battery cable to be either 0 gage or 1 gage wire. You canget these made at a truck supply or buy online from several venders. 12 Volts battery cable are no good they are to small in size to carry the necessay current when the car is hot and to spin the engine. Get the 0 or 1 gage wire. Then you will know that you have both cables of the same size and are brand new and to at leat eliminate that part of the electrical system. Also how old is your battery? Rich Hartung 1939 desoto owner

It might be your brake shoe return springs: according to my master 1937 thru 1952 Tristate Moapr catalog there are two different sets of springs us on your car: I located both of the sets currently on ebay: Front Dod, DeS chrysler 46-52 Part # 854059 rear same cars and years 46-52 Part # 854049 Both of these are found on ebay for 19.00 by frank Mitchel part. these return springs are not the floater style inwhich the hooked end can move inthe coiled spring body. So take a look and search by the part number supplied. Not sure what AB sent you but at least you can verify with the pictures that are on ebay. Rich Hartung The Parts catalogs are a vintage car onwers best friend and this is why I purchased them over the years to make sure you have the correct part for your cr. A parts seller will always tell it will fit but I alwasy go by a specific part number when requesting a part. I have this catalog on CD if you are interested. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

If your truck is a restored antique truck and you have an antique insurance coverage on the truck I would call your carrier to make sure this is ok with them. They might not permit you to do this considering that the according to their plans might be considered to be an everyday vehicle and being used for work purposes. Most antique carriers only permit limited usage. So call the to get claification prior to putting the name on the truck. If you had a non running truck and parked in the front of your business then I do not think there would be any problem but still not sure. Another option might be to get magnetic sign made up so that when you are at a show or on a crusie night you can put the signs onthe doors while at the show and then remove when not in use. But followup again on this option. Just FYI input. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

i looked in my 36-42 Desoto parts Book and the 39 cable is a different part number than the 1940 cable. So yes they are specfiic to the years. Keep trying with French lake I know he lists cars on ebay and look at 1939 Desoto he has several still listed and might still have the braded cable. I got my extra cable from him because I know these are very hard to find also Dodge, Chrysler, Desoto and the upper model Plymouth not the roadking all used the same trans. Could also use the Plymouth roadking model trans since it was a floor shirt trans 3 speed. Also check the gaer shift control road ball joint connection this might be worn or junked up I do see these on ebay . Another parts that wears out and only for 1939 Mopar cars. There are currently three listed on ebay ranging from $19-40. Pick one up for the $19 price to have as a spare since it is only a 1 year part from Ply,Dodge, Chry and desoto Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

yes I have a Borg and Beck catalog so I can match up the presure plate and the cluth disk when ordering a rebuilt unit. These are the reasons to have the catalogs to verify that the seller is sending you the correct part. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

the original mopar battery cables are very hard to find. They were covered in blck cloth but also had a spring around the cable to giv it more strength and protestion. I have a Moapr catalog on these cable and i have only ever seen an original Mopar Battery cable once and the cost was super high. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

according to my tri state mopar parts cataog main drive pinions all models 1940-52 wihtout fluid drive mopar # 853864 with fluid drive 41-52 957859 The org warner part number is listed a wt243-16 19 teeth Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

since you had a massive amount of gas in the oil pan the first thing that I would suspect to be bad is the fuel pump since the pump goes into the crank case and the cam. Make sure this is not the problem. If your car was leaking gas directly from your carb you would have smelt the gas fumes and I would assume that you plugs would all be black becasue of the extra fuel being dropped into the intake and there would have been alot of black smoke out the tailpipe. Seems to be a very strange situation. Rich Hartung

Looked in my Bork and Beck Borg warner clutch catalog: 1941 Dodge D14 uses the B&B presure plate number 360957 for 10-1 inch fits 39-50 dodge, plymouth and desoto type 10a7 if an export or canadian model then 9 1/4 inch PP and the number 926 Bork and Beck type 9A7 fits 1940-50 Dodge plymouth hope this helps you, rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

i just looked at my old Bork and Beck pressure plate that came out of my 39 Desoto and there are three sets of three springs three spring between each lever and the model number is a B&B 10A7 this is a 10 inch PP. The dodge might be the 9 1/4 PP. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Do not ream the bushing with a reamer after putting it in the crank. Rich Hartung

This why when paying for services I pay by Credit card. Then you have some options against the service provider. If the car is not getting fixed and or even being looked at by the shop thne bring it home for safe keeping in your garage not theirs. Even if they have the car and will not give it up they do not have any right to keep the car. You paid for the work. They should look over the car in one hour tops to determine the issue. Then provide you with an estimate or fix the issue. Get a written statement from them. Next record in a document all that has happened. This wil be a small claims court issue. It will cost you money to file with the court the issue but if you win the case the shop will have to pay for the court costs and the money that you are seeking as damages. Do not say anythng to the shop owner if you are going to do this prior to getting the car back at your home. Ask them to fix the issue and if they say no then take possession of the car out of their shop and property go home and then file the paperwork with the court. I had to do this with a person that was going to re stucco my chimney. i had put money down on the job and they never showed up to do the job. called and called and they never replied. I won the case and he lost and had to payout more money than if he had done the job. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

OK thanks for the update I thought this was his engine on his car. Rich Hartung

The flange were the exhaust pipe goes into the exhaust manifold seems to have a gap or space might not be on correctly also what is the little nit with a tube extending on a 45 degree angle under the exhaust manifold used for and what should be and should not be connected to this thing In your top picture the heat risot weight is inthe upright position and inthe bottom picture the weight is in the total down position why the difference Did they mess with the spring onthe heat riser??????? Did they take the two halves apart onthe manifold and did they use the correct gasket between each top and bottom? Did they plane the surhace of the intake and exhust manifolds to insure they are not warped? Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

might look for a sealed beam conversion kit that was made for 1938 Mopar and or 38 Dodge car. The inner flange from the kit might work, just a thought. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

with the tool being shown there is a bend inthe flat part of the tool and then the 6 mil feeler gage is under the rolled peice. So how do you mic the drum with this tool it would seem that the top edgeof the flat black would be onthe inside of the drum and where you are setting the minimum space is not totaly way off the mark. Do not understand how it works compared to the ammco 1750 brake tool. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

on my 39 Desoto the two bottom eccentric pins have the flats to accept and open end wrench. I think it is a 1/2 open wrench. Also they had stamped in the arrows on each pin so you knew that when the arrows are pointing at each other then you are at the same contact point on each eccentric pin. The flats permit you to roate the pin so you can make the shoe lining contact the ammco 1750 brake adjusting tool pin and or the contact point onthe miller MT19 Brake gage. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Check the rubber oil line that feeds the oil pressure guage. The rubber will crack with age and it might be on the back or on the under side of the rubber hose. Do you have rubber hoses running to your oil filter and yes retighten the cap to the oil filter also check the bolt that holds the lid down on the oil filter canister Rich Hartung