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Everything posted by desoto1939
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Here is another option, Could you rent a garage and or have a portable shed built that has a garage door on it and then store the truck inthe shed? Do you have the property to do this or know someone that has a empty garage space? i have my 39 Desoto insured with Grundy for 15K and this costs me around $120 for the year with no milege limitations. The extra cost of the garge might be worth it if you can arrnage for a locked facility. Rich HArtung
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JC Taylor, Congdon and Scully, Haggerty They all might have the same policy about being kept in a garage. I know that I have Grundy and they do not care how many miles I put on my 39 Desoto. I do know that I can not drive it to work and it is only to be driven for some pleasure driving and to club events, tours, parades and shows. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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i looked at your pictures and there seems to be something brass or gold coloring at the ends of the dash piece of the switch. The threads should be all the way out to the end and nothing should be over the threads. This is why you can not get the units to thread onto the chrome nut. Are these nuts the correct ones for the truck or car. You stated they came from a NOS kit. Do you have the originals that you took off the each switch. Check to see if there is a difference between the ones from the kit and the originals. On my 39 Desoto the threads are all the way out to the very end and the chrome nut just threads onto the end of the switch. Something definately is not right here. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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If you post some pictures this will help us try to figure out what you are doing incorrectly. i HAVE A 39 dESOTO and the chrome bezel or nut threads on to the switch clockwise and the you put the knob on the end of the switch. I am not trying to be smart but I assume you have removed the bezel from the switch. Then push the appropriate unit through the dash. There might be a paper washer this goes on the end that is sticking out and goes against the face of the dash and then you install the chrome bezel by turning clockwise unitl it hit the dash. Post some pictures and this might help. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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I had the old style single wire electric pump in my 39 Desoto die last month. The pump was manufactured in 1984. This pump had seen the use of the oxyeginated gas also alsothe use of the 10% ethinol gas. When I took the electric pump apart the rubber diaphram was completely gone. It was just all small pieces and flakes of rubber inthe unit. Since there was always gas in the line and the unit was mounted about 2 feet from the tank it would also was have been full of gas. I replaced the unit with the new Airtex electric pump that has the selinoid in the unit. As stated by other posts I would recommend that everyone put one of these units on their older cars especially since we do not drive them every day. This provide you with a backup incase the mechanical pump fails. I knw some of the guys are rebuiling their own pumps and have also heard that some of the rebuilt units inwhich the rod that holds the rocker arm have broken. If this is the case then you are stuck onthe road. The electric pump will stillpump and get you home and also this helps incase you have a vapor lock. When start the car after has sat for several days this also helps to prime the carb. This was the best $50 that I have spent on my old car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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You stated that you are changing the oil every 1000 miles because it looks dirty and dark. Are you using a mulit weight oil like 10W30 10W40. If so this is why the oil looks dirty. The 10Wx has a detergent inthe oil that helps to clean the engine and this oil will get dark very quickly. The oil has not lost its vescosity or ability to lubercate your car. The cars of today and the oils of day can go 3000-5000 miles before an oil change. I think you are changin ghte oil way to soon. Do you also have a filter and I am assuming the bypass style. If you are not running the car in an enviornment that has alot of dust like riding on dirt roads all the time then I would at least go very 3000K with the filter chnage also. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Capt, After you have bleed the brakes and removed the air do you still have a soft brake pedal? I am assuming that you put on new brake linings. Did you touch the eccentric cams at all. It sounds as if you still need to adjust the shoes again. Even with the use of the Miller tool or the Ammco brake tool to set the arc on the shoes this still causes the system to have a soft pedal. I have done many brakes jobs on these cars. Now jack up the front end. Perform a minor adjustment onthe brake system. Pull the top cam and lock the wheel. Then backoff the shoe until you have a slight drag on the wheel when you spin it. Then do the rear show onthe same side. You should have a slight drag. Do the other side in the same manner. Depress the brake pedal this is need to set the shoes. The pedal should be firmer. You then should do the rears in the same manner. After this has been done then you should have a very firm pedal. If you played witht he eccentrics then the shoes will not be arched correctly and this will also cause you to have a soft pedal. Please refer to the tech article that I did on the Ammco and the Miller Brake tool, this might help you. Plese repost your results so we can help solve your issue. The Dot 4 is not your problem Dot 4 was the stepup from Dot 3 and has a better boiling temp. If you convert to Dot 5 full syntetic then you need to completly flush your system with denatured Alcohol and rebuld the entire rubber parts includingthe lines and cups. DO NOT, DO NOT Mix dot3 or Dot4 with Dot 5. I have DOT 5 in my 39 Desoto for 23 years. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Merle< I just had to replace the old single wire electric fuel pump in my 39 Desoto and used the Airtex selinoid style pump that you also used. I also have a seperate toggle switch to turn mine off and on. I have this mounted near the tank and also have a filter onthe line just before the fuel goes intot he carb. I am glad I had this becuase the older electric pump was destoried because the ethinol eat up the old style diaphram and there were small pieces of the rubber in the fuel filter. Our older cars should have this backup system as you stated for several reasons, 1. vapor lock, 2 back up to your mechanical pump in case it fails. 3. you can prime your carb prior to starting the car so you do not have to grind the engine and also wear down the battery. Also of importance is that when you grind the engine and do not get the car to start and the battery wears down then some people spray a fule starter into the carb. This is dangerous because if you do not get the car to start then the starter fluid now has been pulled into the cylinders and if the car has not started then the starter fluid has a tendancy to get ontot he cylinder walls and then it strips the oil off the cylinder walls. If the car is not started then the oil is removed and then you have bare metal against bare metal. This is not very good for the engine. By have the option to prime the carb with the electric pump then you lessen the chance of wearing down the battery and the car will start and less metal to metal contact. The cost is very cheap for the etire setup the 60-75 dollars is cheap to if you have to every have you car towed or your are standed on the road. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Mike, I ahve the complete Ammco 1750 brake gage. The small silver spacer is not required to use the tool. This spacer was used after you put the gage on the spindle and then the small silver spacer was put on next and then the castle nut. The spacer was used so you did not have to thread on the castle nut all the way to the end of the tool it was a time saver as per the instruction sheet. Do you have a copy of the instructions? Also go the the tech archive section i did a demo of this tool and also the Miller tool at the AACA convention in Phialdelphia several years ago. I have the instruction shhet if you need a copy. I will be glad to answer any questions that you might have on this tool. After setting the brakes with thetool then put the drum back on the. The do a minor adjustment withonly the cam nut that is onthe back of the backing plate. Lock the drum then back off alittle so the drum has some drag. then do the other cam inthe same way. Push the brake pedal to help set the shoes. Do this after working on each wheel. You not should have a nice hard pedal. THere should be the normal travel inthe pedal. Read your manual for the correct amout of travel. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157 Cell after 9:30 PM Philly time
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Since you purchased a rebuilt pump do you know whenthe pump was rebuild in which year and also did they rebuild it with the newer style diaphram that is compatible with the ethiol based gasoline? If this is an older rebuild it still might have the older type diaphram and this could have disentigrated. I had an electric pump onmy 39 desoto that was built in 1984 and the newer enthinol gas destroyed the diaphram and when i took it apart there was nothing left of the rubber diaphram. i replaced the electric pump with the newer Airtex 6v electric pump that can work with the newer gasoline. I would first suggest that you take the airhorn off the carb and check to see that you do not have any crud in the fuel bowel. Then use you compressor to blow air back inot he fule tank. HAve some take the fuel cap off. If the line is clear then you will hear the air bubble in the filler neck. If you do not hear any air bubbles then you have a clocked line or possibly the tank is clogged at the bottom of the tank there is a screen that is used to collect sediment. If the tank is clogged then drain the tank and take it to a raditor or gas tank specilist to get it cleaned out. Then istall the Airtex electric pump as a backup unit. You will then have the unit mount near the tank so it pushes gas to the fuel pump. This helps incase the mechanicl pump goes bad and also after the car sits a long time you can push gas upto the carb and do not have to grind the engine to the carb Also helps to stop a vapor lock in the gas line. It is the best backup you can buy for around $50-60 dollars. Go to the Airtex web page I think it is an Ev8011 model 6v. When you hook up the unit the postive wire on the pump get connected to the frame if you still have a 6v positive ground. The other wire is then connected to the power line and this should be on a toggle switch and only work when the key is in the on position. If you have questins please contact me. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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remember the factory brakes lines were form via gigs so that they all were bent inthe same shape. Since you do not have a gig I would make the line as simple as possible. Instead of trying to bend a line in a u shape you could make more straight line and then use the various couplings 45 or 90 degree connecters. You will need to have a double flareing tool to create the proper flare at the end of each line. MAke the job simple. You do not have to have the original look. You want to make it so it is easy for you to do the job and not get frustrated. Remember the statement KISS Keep it simple and stupid. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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The other day I was able to acquire a Sisson Automatic Choke Testing Fixture or stand. This unit was used by the car dealers and also repair shops to test the automatic chokes that sit on the intake manifolds and also test new units to make they are working properly. I have attached several pitures of the unit. On the face of the unit are the instructions for setting up the choke and there is a thermometer to read the existing temperature. You need to have the current choke that you are testing to have to come to the room temp. You set the choke on the stand and then use the adjusting and setting rod to set the arm in the proper setup. Then you attache the long rod to the arm. Loosen the nut that holds the arm fixed and move the arm so the long rod is not at the starting point which is locted 0on the tool. You then take the reading on the thermometer and in this case it was 75 degrees. I test my unit and the thermometer is working. You then pull out the adjusting tool and let the arm swing to the left. There are markings for 100, 80 and 70 onthe face plate. The pointer should then register within ten degress plus or minus of the room temp. This tells you that the unit is working and is not binding. In my test the temp was 75 degrees and when I removed the adjusting the arm was sitting equally between the 80 and 70 degree indicators almost at 75 degrees. This informed that the unit is properly reading the current temp and will work properly onthe car. I also recently purchased the Sisson Service manual and it also has some very valuable information onthe various chokes that were used on the Chrylers, DeSotos, Dodges and Plymouths and also has pictures and talks about the proper adjusts and also the Sisson tools that were used to adjust the chokes. I have created a PDF file that I have burned to a CD. If you are interested in the Service Manual the cost is $15 which includes the shipping and handling. Since this is on a CD you will never wear out a paper copy and can print it if you want a paper version. refer to the attached pictures of the setup and test that I performed Contact me if you are interested inthe CD. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157 cell
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After my engine onthe 39 Desoto was rebuild I started using 10W40 oil inthe car. I have had this inthe engine now for 23+ years and do not have an issue. When I change my oil I also add in an oil additive that has the zinc and phosphorus similar to ZDDP. Since the engine had been rebuilt I went to the 10W40 oil. If the engine is an older engine and has not been rebuilt then I would stay with the single weight oil w30. I also have the bypass filter that has the throwawy insert filter. When using multi weight oil is has been recommended to always have a filter because of the foaming action and also because of the cleaning action of the oil. I use an AC canister oil filter an I use a NAPA1010 filter inthe unit. When you take the top of the canister remove the filter and then use a meat baster to remove the excess oil that is sitting the unit. I then clean out the unit with a rag to get any crude out of the unit. Insert the new filter and add some oil inthe canister. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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I know we all worry about our cars we we are on tour or if someone might damage the car. If you have the car insured with a reliable Antique car policy like with Grundy, JC Taylor, Haggarty then the damage or theft would be covered and they will send you a check for the cost to replace the item. The issue is not the replacement cost but the problem of trying to find them again if they are getting scarse to find and also if the some part needs to be replated also adds intot he cost. Hope this never happens to anyone but get youc ar insured with a good reliable Antique Car Insuracne carrier and not your regualr car insurance company. rich Hartung
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The car looks great, When you put the wide whites onthe car I would switch, and this is my opinion only, to an all black rim. The Wide Wites that would stand out and there would not be a color contract. I think the red makes your eyes look at the rims and not at the overall car. Again this is just my perspective. rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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Joe, This is rich hartung, In the miller tool catalog that I was selling and now have been able to copy to cds the Miller Tool catalog has pictures of the Water pump Tool kit that the dealers used to repair them. In the old days the dealers fixed the items now we just replace them. The cd is a 3 cd set and lists all of the tools that were used from the 30-early 50s about 51. It has great pictures and explanations on each tool. The miller tool catalogs are hard to get. I sold about three copies of the to several memebrs from the forum and they were were very please with the information. If you would like a set of the cd's contact me at Desoto1939@aol.com The 3 cd set sells for $20 and this includes the shipping. Rich Hartung
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There are special tools that help cut the seat for the bearing and shaft. This is called facing the bearing. If you can not do this than you might get a leaking shaft. I would buy an new pump or a rebuilt pump. Then you just have to install it and not really worry about the rebuilding and another possible leaking pump. The kit will run you around $40 so spend the money on the rebuilt pump. Just my thoughts. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Ed, i checked my 39 desoto repair manula and here is what I found. On the backing plate it states that use a washer in place of lockwasher under the screw going into the water passage. I do not know the reasoning behind this but there is a picture of this in the manual so it definately must be for some reason. It might be that if you have the lockwasher it might hit the water distribution tube and the pump might not seat properly. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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Ed, i will check my repiar manual tonight when I get home from work. If I can find the info I will scan it a place on this post. Hope you figure out this leaking issue. rich Hartung
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If I remember correctly on my 39 Desoto one of the bolts that holds the backing plate onto the back of the water pump does not get a washer. I did a water pump severalyears ago but can not remember which bolt it was. Refer to your repiar manual it might inform you about the top bolt. I do know there is something differect that you need to do. rich
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I forgot to post the pictures of the original tires. These are on a 39 Desoto 6.00 x 16 Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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I have the factory goodyears on my 30 Desoto that have the ribbed effect. The cost around 130 each now. these 6.00x 16 bia ply.
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Charlie, Since your were driving on route 66 did you stop at Hackbury? Two years ago i took my entire family on a vacation and Started in Las Vegas and did all of the NAtional Parks and drove from Kingman on Route 66 on my way up to the Grand Canyon Alsos topped in Saligman and did you stop to have some icecream. I was a great ride and the sites of the old towns are just great. Some day I willget to retrace my steps and drive more of route 66. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Noticed that you are missing the threaded bolt that goes into the water pump just below the return outlet. Do not forget to put this in before you install the engine or you will lose all of the water. i would also suggest that you install an electric fuel pump jus as a backup to the mechanical. This is a fail safe incase the mechanicl goes on you and also helps to push the gas to the carb incase you ever get a vapor lock. It also helps to prime the carb after the vehicle has sat for some time. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Attached are the horn rely pictures and info Autolite electical ply horns 3a.PDF