desoto1939

remember this is a draft tube so when going down the road the fore of the air movement from front to back makes a suction at the end of the draft tube and the intake for the air is on the oil filler cap. This is pulling the fumes and oil from the car. It is like a PCV positive crankcase valve on a modern car. it got rid of the oil smell and that is why these old car always have a specific smell to them. I know I am not explaining this well but maybe Don can provide a better answer. Rich Hartung

AndyDodge, Todd Fitch was correct. The black arm would be swung out at the car then pushed into the tunnel to check for clearance. It the arm hit any obstruction the the arm would move back and there was a corresponding point on the cab of this car to check the amount of defelction. They would move the car about two feet at a time to check for clearances. This was done in the spring time after the winter freeze and to also check t make sure if they had to make improvements to the tunnel. Great catch on your part about this train, I thought someone would ask that question. Todd knew the answer so he might have some interest in rr cars. Hartung

This car was trailered from California. Dennis is a member of the Airflow club and Also the National Desoto Club. There were some real nice airflows and several where national winners. It was a great time. This was the fo9rst dual meet and car show between the two clubs. I did a presentation on my old miller tools and the guys from the Airflow club were really appreciative of the lecture. Also did a lecture on swap meeting and the use of Major Automotive PArts catalogs. Learned a lot from the AF members hope we can have another combined meet in the future. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here are some picture of the Chrysler Airflows: the red Airflow was in the great tour from Peking to Paris France. Notice the Roll-ear in the car.

Chrysler Airflow Pictures

More Desoto Pictures:

Car from the Desoto convention up to 1940 the roadster is a 32 Desoto that is a Grand Natinal Winner and this car took Best of Show. Also had thre 1939 Desotos on the show field. Mine is the Gren one in the middle. How do you like the Des Script gas cap. More pictures to be posted.

Ralph: Yes this was for the Desoto Side of the house. The Airflow club had their own banquet. I felt so bad for this gentleman, he really wanted to drive home but did not want to take the chance of breaking down on the road We took a road trip in the old cars to the Maryland Fire Truck Museum and then to the B&O railroad Roundhouse. Then to Maryland Public TV where they fim Motor week and saw the acutual garage where they film and then off to Pollack restoration shop and then the Combined car show on Saturday. Will post some pictures of the Fire Museum, B&O railyard, Motorweek studio and restoration shop and car show. the pictures here are of the fire museum, Stream liner Locomotive and several of the cars in the roundhouse, Goff GArage studio and a 30 Pierce arrow 4 Dorr convertible with the removal door post over 200K into this car.

Just arrived home from attending the 31st National Desoto Convention and Car Show. It was a dual meet with the Airflow Club of America. There were four Chrysler Airflows that came all the way across from California. One of the drivers was 83 years old and he told me they were doing 70 MPH on the super highways. My 39 Desoto worked great hit 180 degrees on the engine temp and it was at least 90 degrees outside temp. Never had an issue. Cam home and the temp ran around 170-175. A 110 mile trip in both directions. I took the trophy for driving the longest in a Pre-War Desoto. Will post more info and pictures later. Great Trip and the old car performed just perfectly ran at 50-55 MPH for the entire trip Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

On Wednesday morning I will be headed off from valley Forge PA and travel approximately 75 miles to attend the National Desoto Convention and car Show. The 31st Convention will be held from July 6th to Saturday July 9th. The car show which is a combined show with the Airflow Club of America. The host Hotel is the Radisson North Baltimore Plaza 2004 Greenspring Drive, Timonium Md. 21093 1-410-252-7373 This is just off of I83 near Townson MD and is on the outskirts of Baltimore. If you are in the area please stop over for the show on Saturday afternoon The show will be held at the Maryland Fairgrounds which is located very close to the host hotel. If anyone attends please come over and say hello. I will be with the green 39 Desoto there will also be another gray 39 Desoto there also. I was able to get the correct water pump installed last Friday and all is good right now. We are expecting to have a heat wave with temps in the mid 90's. This is not good for our engines but will have to make the best of what we have. Will take pictures and post when my wife and I get back next weekend. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The wp is installed and is working fine. Thanks for all the suggestions and help. The reason it was leaking is there was some leftover permatex sealent on the engine block. Not enough to see but just enounh to not make a tight seal. Scraped the engine block and sanded the ares so it was clean metal. Put the gasket on and used Dons suggestion to apply some grease. Also used two gaskets to make sure. Now I should be able to drive the car to Baltimore Md on Wed. The National Desoto convention will be in Tamonimum MD and runs from 7-5-16 to 7-10. The car show will be a joint venture with the NDC and also the Airflow club of America.. Wish me good luck and a safe trip will take some pictures and post when I get back. One day we are goi9ng to the TV studio of Road and Track in Mrylad. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

I have u joints for the 39 Dodge they are the same that are used on my 39 Desoto. This is the pin and trunion style. I have the complete kits with the metal housing. Also have a lot of great cross reference catalogs and manuals for this car. Send me your home email. I live near Valley Forge PA. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

UPDATE: After taking the pump off for the third time last night I discovered that there was some left over permatex and some of the real old gasket material still on the block. I ran my finger nail over the entire surface and found it. It looked brown but could feel the buildup. Scraped and sanded the entire area to be clean and bright. As per Don's advise I put some grease on both side of the gasket and also installed a second gasket. Bolted up the unit and filled the radiator, NO LEAKS at the back of the WP. Ran the car upto over 180 degress in the garage and no leaks so I quess we are good to Go. Remember you must have a real clean smooth area for the gasket to work correctly. Rich Hartung

Don, Tks for replying back to me. Well I took the pump off for the third time. I looked at lot closer to the front of the engine block and low and behold where the water was leaking I did find some left ove real hard gasket like it was mabe put on originally with some permatex. I use a flat screw driver to scrap clean the surface and then use some heavy grit sand paper and got down to all bare nice real clean shiny metal. I had replaced the water pump maybe 10 years ago but did not have this issue with the gasket. So hopefully on Friday I can get it back together. I amy going to let the fron of the engine bloc air dray and take a real closer look at it in the morning. This has been an all day job. tired for the night. I will get this think fixed before Wednesday of next week. Will keep everyone posted of this issue. I might have some lubriplate in my garge and might try that on the back of the gasket as you di on your engine. This should such a simple job. Rich Hartung

Ok received the correct wp for my 39 Desoto witht he 1/2 inch body on the lower left mounting stud. here is the issue. reconnected the pump witht he new gasket and all bolts are tight. Pump af into the radiator and filled it. Notice that it is leaking and the back plate at the top where the body of the Wp touches the fron on the engine block. This are is clean an nothing left over from the old gasket. Never leak before this time. I have install this new Wp twice and get the same issue. Question do I need to use a permetex on the gasket sealer on both side of the water backing plate or any suggestions on what to do. Need some assistance from the guru's of the club. Trying to get the car ready to take to the National Clun Convention next week. Have been working on this issue all day. Need some Advise. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol Cell 484-431-8157 you can call if you like I am up till 11 Eastern Time i9n Philadelphia, PA.

No not going to hoard them but will have a couple incase the early car owners that have this style wp could have a resource if they need one. I have found out a long time ago that it is better to be prepared then in needed and not have something that is need right now. I thought I had the correctWp but learned something new this week about the repo waterpumps. Rich Hartung

Thanks for all of the sugeestions from everyone. I have Great news, I found a gentleman that has for new pumps that have the sealed bearing and the old style housing. I have purchased one of the pumps and its on its way to my house. It if fits and he also measure the boss Then I will order the remaining three from him. Hope to have the car back together by this Friday afternoon and report on my progress. Don thanks for the picture of the stud remover. It would be just my luck that the stud would break off. Rich Hartung

I need some special help for a water pump to fit a 39 Desoto. On my 39 Desoto there are three studs that come throught the lower body of the WP. When looking directly at the WP witht he flange facing you go to the left side of the pump and where the outlet return water outlet just below this is a hole for a stud to come through the body. On my car the thickness at this point on the body with the backing plate installed is only 1/2 inch. I have a more modern pump that I got several years ago at Hershey but found out that at the same location the body is now thicker and the stud will not protrude out of the body so I can not bolt it down. The real other issue is that I was getting ready to attend the National Desoto convention and car show during the week of July 5-9th in Baltimore MD. I have called around and can not find a replacement pump that is only the 1/2 inch thickness at the left side of the pump. If anyone has a pump that they would sell me I wuld greatly appreciate it. I have search the usual on line mopar venders any they only have the larger bodied wp. even NAPA and I also touched base with Art Gold who does WP and Fuel Pumps and no luck. Can anyone help me with this situation. I could try to pull the stud out of the from of the block but it has been in the car for as long as I have had the car which is 30 Years and it would be my luck to breakoff in the block so I do not want to try that method, prefer the correct water pump. Might have a lead on a pump but not sure. Also have searched Ebay and other areas I KNOW THIS SHOULD BE IN THE WANTED SECTION BUT IN DIRE NEED F THE WP SO I CAN ATTEND THE NATIONAL DESOTO CONVENTION DURING THE WEEK OF JULY 5TH TO THE 11TH Rich Hartung I AM UP TIL 11 pm EVERY NIGHT. 39 Desoto water pump early version desoto1939@aol.com CELL: 484-431-8157 home: 610-630-9188 LIVE NEAR PHIILADELPHIA PA

Another good book is a Hollander cross reference book for the years of your car. The Hollander book was used by junk yard to determine which parts from various years and makes and models will cross over and canbe used on your car or truck. Also do not forget about the Rate Books. Always look at them when at a swap meet they do have part number and according to which rate book they have a lot of cross reference information. The other thing is that you could contact me because I have an extensive collection of cross reference catalogs on the old car/trucks and I have all of these on CD's so you no longer have to have paper copies. My information goesback to 1910 and upto 1956 rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Yes agree the basic information that any owner of an antique car/truck should be the Service manual and any suppliments that were publish for the car/truck and at least the parts manual. A third book would be a Motors Manual, this also lists some of the major repair items for the car/tuck . You can not always rely on a forum member to provide you with the documentation. The asking of questions is fair but if you have not research the issue or even looked in the service manual then you need to get these to help you understand your particular car. Desoto1939@aol.com Rich Hartung

I have bee watching the water pumps that are being advertised by thepartsgeek. They are selling the revised and upgraded water pump that now has the sealed bearing instead of the old style that used the two bonze bushings. When the main shaft started to get some wear the bronze bushing would then get elongated and then cause the water leak via the main impellor shaft. The Chrysler flat 8's had the sealed bearing style and the 6's had the old bushing style. So Gates has improved the product. I also called Gates toinquirer about the change and their technician told me this information. So instead of buying a rebuilt waterpump at a swap meet go to the parts Geek .com and look for a 46 Plymouth water pump and the gates model if I remember correctly around 40-60 and it has the sealed bearing. link in www.partsgeek.com pump is 38.23 plus shipping Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

NOS New old Stock does not mean that the item is perfect. It means that the item was never used on a car or truck. It might have been part of a large supply that the dealer had in his bins or it might have had a problem and was put back into the parts bin. So NOS can still have some issues. I prefer NOS over NOSR New old stock replacement. Yes either one will work but there is always a human factor that any part might have an issue, So when buying these parts you are taking a chance witht he part. The only way to make sure is buying the part in person and checking it out at the time of purchase. Buyer beware at all times. So when buying a NOS fender for your car/truck can still have some dents or a flange might be bent so NOS does NOT MEAN PERFECT. remember these parts are sometime over 60-70 years old and have been moved from vender to vender. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

So now when going to swap meets look for the elbow and also the bypass cast piece. I like to put a manual shutoff valve at the rear of the head and also on the bypass section of the water pump. This permits me to shu off the flow of the water at the back of the head and at the water pump. If you ever have to remove the heater then you do not have to drain the radiator, just turn off both shutoff values and then youonly have to drain the water in the two heater hose lines and the fluid that is in the heated coil. This is just a thought on how someone else handled this situation. Also you do see shutoff valves witht he tapperd threads at swap meets. I have a couple. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Bingster: Ihave to agree with Don on his reply. Call the vendor to see if they have what you are looking for. Some of us have purchased parts from Bernbaum when Andy was the owner, but Andy sold the business to another person so to comment on the new owner is not fair to him unless you have already dealt with the new owner and I think his name is Chris. He is trying to serve everyone and sounds as if he is a fair guy. Call and get the part and then make a comment on to how the part fit or did not fit only you can make the comments and not anyone else on your behalf. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

For the rear drums you will need a drum puller like the 3 arm puller to get the rear drum off the tapered axle. You can run the car without the air filter on the car just to move it around the yard but I would not go on a long trip without one. You could also get a modern air cleaner and adapt if needed. front and rear drums are not interchangeble. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com