desoto1939

Everyone is providing some input but the original poster has either not read our replies or has not been back on the forum. We need his input so I guess all we can do is hope he has solved his issue. Rich Hartung

I was doing some searching for an older Mopar Part that was still in the MoPar box. I just found the site www.MyMopar.com I was able to enter an older six digit part number such as 676930 and it listed is as the steering sector for my 1939 Desoto. Give it a try and see if it can find a part number abd provide the description for you. Might help with that unknown part that you have. If it works then save the link in your favorites. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

yes there are 8/6 volt battery combinations that are available. But what do you mean by getting hard to start. I am 65 years old and I have a hard time getting my body and my engine starting in my personal body everyday, all kidding aside. Please explain the hard starting situations. Has the car been sitting for several days or only hours. Has the gas in the line possibly drained back down to the Fuel pump. Do you have an electric pump at the rear of the car near the gas tank. It is hard starting after the engine has been hot. How old are the plugs, cap, rotor point condenser and wires. Do you have the proper 0/1 gage battery cables is there a good clean ground strap on the car how are the battery connections any loose. Pleas provide more input so we can all try to help with your problem. Also how cold is cold please put a number for us. Rich Hartung and the rest of the Forum members.

Auctionmp: I sent you a PM please reply back or call me. I might have the info that you are looking for Rich Hartung also try this item description on ebay it might be the one your are looking for: NOS 1941-49 Dodge Truck Cluster Gear #599741 13-17-26-33 Tooth Cost 130

At least you know it is a Chrysler trans. It is a manual not a torqueflite. and the year it came out of the truck. Are you looking for internal parts to replace any parts, are you planning to resue this in another truck. I do not know who manuafactured the trans for Chrysler and not sure if anyone can be that specific. I do have a Borg Warner Trans and reaend catalog that lists the various components that can be used to replace the internal parts if that is what you are after. I looked in my Hollander book and from what I can find this is a T251 Transmission and main drive gear is aT251-16 Rich Hartung

Jipjob: we all now are assuming that you used the ammco brake gage to set the shoe adjustment. But why was the shoe wearing on an edge or was it because the shoe was not adjusted properly with the toe and heel adjustments. Were the shoe no properly seated on the backing plates, please lets us know what you did. The Ammco tool or miller brake tool is so importamt to getting good brakes with these older cars. Just curious as to what you did to solve the issue. This is why I loan out the Ammco brake tool. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

DOn thanks for themupdated posting and the pictures of the fp and add on filter. that is basically what I have on my 39 Desoto. Rich Hartung

Don: I have the stock Ball and Ball carb on my 39 Desoto and the stock fuel pump which is the AC 588 that has the glass bowel and just before the carb I have another fuel bowel which is the newer style AC that has the glass bowel and a paper filter. I am not having any issues with fuel delivery or the engine stalling out. I have the 5/16 fuel line that is standard on my 39 Desoto. The Carter filter that has the ceramic filter was used as standard equipment back when these engines and cars were being run on a daily basis. Maybe the size of the picture is what is making you think the carter filter is not big enough to handle the fuel supply. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Why not put the fuel filter as an inline prior to the FP and maybe back by the fueltank. This way you catch any thing there first and eliminate the plumbing. I also have the AC glass bowel filter assembly just prior to my carb on a 39 Desoto with the same fp which is an AC588. Are you getting any problems currently with this setup is the first question that people are going to ask? I do not think you should have any issues. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I was in my carter carb catalog and look what I found two pages on the flanges and dimension Hope this answers you questions, Rodney. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com carter carb flange 1.pdf carter carb flange 2.pdf

It all depends on what you are doing with the car. If you are showing the car at an AACA national meet then you should have the correct shape muffler installed and the correct length. They do lookunder the car to see how the undercarriage is an if it is clean and restored to factory like condition upo0n when the car was delivered from the factory to the dealership. If you just have a driver then any muffler that will fit and also sound like you want it to is just fine. If you had a factory muffler installed originally then maybe you will also have to have a new tailpipe bent because the newer muffler might not be the same length or a piece of extra length tailpipe will have to be fitted to make up the distance. Hope this helps. Try to get a walker because I have heard that so long as you can read the muffler number they are guaranteed. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Rodney: Glad to see that you are still posting. I looked in my AEA catalog and for your P9 and also P10 the correct carb should be either of the following and it is also according to if you have the sisson choke installed on the car. Carter D6A1 - D6A2 without sisson choke Carter D6C1 = D6C2 with the sisson choke that sits on the manifold I measured the base on my spare Desoto carter the E6S3 the base from side to side is 3 3/4 the spare approx. for the bolts holes is approx. 3 inches center to center. This might be different for the ply since the Desoto had the bigger engine. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The original poster never stated that he had looked in the service manual for his truck. My my 39 Desoto the wiring diagram is included in the repair manual. I am not saying that he should not search the internet but his first option should be to get the necessary support documentation and that should be the service manual. This is the basics to your hobby to keep your truck running and to answer basic questions. Since he did not have an example to compare he wanted everyone else to do his homework. Also by having the copy of the service manual he gets to know more about his truck. I am not say that he should not ask questions but go beyond the first step to get the supporting documentation and then ask more detailed questions. And to answer your question nothing is bugging me. For your own information I do have an extensive collection of cross reference catalogs for our cars and trucks and do supply information, but this gentleman needs to spend sometime to acquire the service manual on his truck. This is the basic information that any antique owner should have if they are in this hobby. You also state that we use the internet to get information so then why did he not try to get the specific wire diagram for the particular year truck if he found one then there should be the appropriate one on the internet. Hartung

why is that when new owners get an antique cars and or trucks they feel that the internet should be the sole contact to get them out of any issue that they might have with their antique. If you do not know anything about your antique then the first thing that you should get and it can be a reproduction item is the service manual and parts manual for your car/truck. Most of the time this will provide you with the wiring diagram for the car/truck how things are setup and how to take things apart and even the wiring order of the dizzy. This SHOULD be the basic literature every owner should have. Even if you are not a mechanic by trade at least you would have some reading material about the car/truck and then at least you can ask some intelligent questions and refer back that you have at least read the service and parts manual prior to always going to the forum to ask your questions. Yes I do understand that we are all not super mechanically inclined but at least do some homework on your part first. Try to learn something prior to asking everyone to come to your rescue. Knowledge is great an when you get stuck on the road then at least you have some source to reference or when working in your garage. Comments welcomes. We do not want to offend anyone but at least put some effort to find the answer in a service manual first and then ask more detailed questions this is how you learn and how you learned when you were in school. Rich Hartung

Since the weather is now changing I would also check the heat riser unit. I had a similar issue onmy 39 Desoto about 15 years ago the HR unit needed to be replaced. So when it was cold the car was real rough idling at a stop had to pullthe throttle out at a stop light to keep the car running. The bottom of the carb was starting to ice up. Just a thought. When the car is running at speed moving and not idleing there would not be an issue but when idleing the bottom of the carb could be iscing up because of the vaporizing of the air fuel mixture. So by pulling the choke or thorottle out this make the engine run faster and eliminated the issue. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Nice link to the Wagner Lockheed brake information I just saved this into my catalog information. Thanks for posting the info Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

If you also do any shopping on the great Ebay you will see vendors that have a huge shipping cost even when an items will fit into a USPS if it fits it ships. I have seen small items that have the $12 shipping fee and I know that it will fit in the smallest box for around the $6 fee. I always question the seller to see if the item can go into the smallest container and use the USPS if it fits it ships. So also figure the money that Ebay takes as their cut and then the %3 that Paypal takes so this is also why some prices are so high. But sometimes you just have to pay if you want to play. Rich Hartung.

40Desoto: Glad that you are putting in the 25 inchblock and not modifying the car to use the 23 inch block. I still have the catalogs and have also gotten some more. The 2017 National Desoto Convention and car shw will be held in San Dieago in late August of 2017. Are you a member of the NDC, if not would suggest that you join. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

is there any possibility that the shoe the metal part of the shoes are bent and or the backing plate is bend? Rich Hartung

In the above picture of the maw4016 notice the use of the correct starter switch and some people call it a solenoid. This is a foot lever pedal style. Notice the screw that is treaded into the lower right corner. This is where the wire connects from the starter motor and runs to the sisson choke if you truck or car has one installed. When the lever is pushed forward it makes contact with the copper plate that sits on top of a fabric material so that you do not short to the connections. The action of pressing the lever forward and hitting the copper plate then pushes the contact point to hit the copper plate and then this makes the connection so the starter motor will spin ad the drive end on the ring gear and at the same time sends the electric current to the sisson choke. Looks as if you now have the correct starter motor and switch. Just have the motor checked out. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Angel: according t my autolite catalog the Autolite stater motor MCH-6103 uses the SW-2813 swith that has the hole in the side and the mch-6106 uses the switch sw-2827 that does not have the hole in the side. Have you looked at the attachment that I posted with the pictures of the various starter switches. On the unit that you shoed it has the tab to attach the wire into the side of the starter switch. Please feel free to contact me Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.comm home 610-630-9188 live near Philadelphia pa

Angel On the starter unit that you have the photo of there isa a copper plate that attaches to the outside of the starter motor body. at the very front of the unit there is a tab that is threaded. The Autolite sw 2813 is the unit that has the hole in the side of the starter switch. A screw is inserted in a a wire clip and then screwed into this hole and then the other end of the wire attaches to the sisson choke. This is the same switch that is on my 1939 Desoto. So if you are using this starter motor that is why the switch is not matching up and there should also be two studs that come out of the motor body to bolt the switch to the starter body rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Starter Switches.pdf

Ok the first question is for what year and what truck for 49 and also for what truck model for 51. There are several starter switches that are used according to the truck model and year and also according to which starter motor is installed in the truck. So I need to know the year and model of the truck and also the starter motor that is installed. I canthen look up in my autolite catalog and tell you the correct components. The switch could have been the SW 2813 or sw-2827 so if you had to weld on the Stater switch then you have the incorrect switch. In my autolite book it did not show a picture of the switch sw-2827. I did look in my Echlin catalog and it shows a picture of the SW-2827. This is almost the same as the SW 2813 but on the SW 2827 there is no hole at the left front ot hook and screw in a wire to send a current to the sisson choke the Echlin number would be an ST-29 to fit Dodge trucks 50-56 and fargo from 1950-56 The SW 2827 is in the upper section in the lower left corner and is marked as ST29 and made by Echlin. the autolite would look the same Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Starter Switches.pdf

I am not sure if people are expecting the brakes on out 1930-40 and 50's car and trucks to perform and stop like our modern 2000 ish vehicles. Back before power brake and vacuum assisted brakes all we had were the manual and if the case of rod mechanical brakes. When our fathers drove these cars the speed were not as fast and the roads were not as good, in certain terms, in which we can average 70+ mph on a super highway and then can come to a complete stop without any fading or softness in the brakes as to be compared when driving on the technology that 80 or so years old. I think everyone has to get back in the car and then think about what they are going to be driving in the next few minutes. It is not your current car but an antique car. The cars do not stop on a dime but can, they do not have the acceleration like the current cars and lighting of halogen bubs and 12 volt system if they are a stock antique vehicle. So if you brakes have a good pedal with the proper amount of travel in the pedal as per the spec's for your car then you should be good go. BUT and I say BUT you have to be in the frame of mind that you are driving an old car and they act slower and anticipate situations, like noticing that a green light has been green for awhile as you get closer to the intersection. Did the light just turn green now you have a much longer time to get through the intersection, anticipate additional stopping distances be aware of the extra distance that might be needed to stop remember the old safe diving lesson keep 3 car lengths between you and the other car. You need in more so reason to be a defense driver in the older cars. We have to have that understanding in our minds before we even venture out of the garage and everytime we start up the antique car, These are older and they do not act like our modern cars. So think of driving your modern 2016 car with a v6 coming home from work and then on the next day you had to use you old Model A to get to work an entirely different driving situation as a prime example. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com