desoto1939

Did you have the shoe arched to be perfect with the drums. I think you stillneed to use the Ammco Brake 1750 tool to get the perfect adjustment. You keep saying that you have air in the brake system. So I am assuming that when you bleed the right rear that you are getting air bubbles in the container that is capturing the brake fluid that has been pushed out from the cylinder and assuming that someone is holding the brake pedal to the floor and then you are tighenting the bleeder screw on the back of the wheel cylinder. If you are letting the pedal come back to the outer limit then you are having the issue with air coming intot he line from some place. Please explain your total process on what you are doing. Something is not correct Do you have any leaks in the system the tipping of the car on its side willnot solve the issue. Your lining thickness should 3/16 and be 2 inches wide. I assume you might have had some wear on the lining these measurements are according to my Wagner Brake catalog. You use the same lining as on my 1939 Desoto the lining number is 1162 which is a number that was used by all brake lining companies. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

Plymouthy: I totally agree with you about not rebuilding an old shock especially when you can get New shocks that have better performance and are just a bolt-in application. As you can also see Todd posted some more info on the subject. Rich Hartung

FYI Plymouthy: I looked in my 1939 Desoto supplemental repair manual and there is a section on how to disassemble and repair the factory shocks and how to refill the shocks. So now we know they carried the shocks up to 1939 at least. So if someone could look in a 1940's service manual then we might know if 39 was the last year that shocks could be dissembled. FYI Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Steve the springs that have the sliding ends are the correct style. Richi

You need to use two wrenches to remove the rubber hose. Best to use a flared fitting wrench. These can be purchase at any store that carries automotive wrenches. The metal line from the block has a flared fitting just line what is going into the block and the rubber hose also has a fitting that sort of is crimped onto the hose. Use the two flared wrenches. one hold the metal pipe nut and the other on the nut end of the oil line and then you can break the line lose. This prevents the metal line from twisting and the two wrenches work in opposite direction with equal force and the two line will unscrew with out an issue. Do the same at the top of the other end and put the new oil line on in the same manner. Get two of these oil line and always have a spare in your tool box in your car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

According to my 26-34 catalog and AEA catalog the correct model is a delco 734H just like in the picture that Ply Adams posted and this is for the 34 Plymouth PF and PE model and same for 34 dodge. I am sorry I posted the credit to the wrong person it should have been Todd. My mistake Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

yes same vac advance. Hartung

so according to my autolite catalog Dizzy igs-4207A-1 was used on 1946-48 D25 dodges the correct Vacumm Advance will be VC-2082R autolite. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Looked in my Autolite catalog under 50 Dodge Car. The first thing that you need to know is what distributor is used in your car because that determine which Vac Adv you need. Distributor Vac Adv Autolite igs-4207b-1 vc-3147 iat-4003 iat- 2023rg iat-4011 iat-2023rg I have a lisitng that I can scan for you send me you email. I would also look on Ebay you might find an Autolite NOS Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

On the original springs that you show on the right of the picture, if I remember correctly one of the ends slides in and out of the tapered ends and it might be both ends.. I would first check the ends to make sure that the end which has a stopping bend to them and this is the best that I can explain is in good shape and not rusted. If they are still in good shape them clean the original springs with a wire brush or media blast them with a light blasting medium and then spray them with a clear coat from a spray can or use a rust preventative spray paint. I still have the original springs in my 1939 Desoto and they are still strong and not rusted. I also purchased a couple of years ago the original springs from Frank Mitchell just to have spares. So if the originals are good then still use them and keep the others as spares. Just my 25 cents worth of input Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

But as a precaution I would just block the brake pedal with a piece of wood so it it wedged behind the back of the pedal against the floor board, just to prevent the pedal from being pushed down. Better safe than having to re-bleed the line. Rich Hartung

Good News. I just found a Hydraulics supply warehouse in Philadelphia that stocks these 90 degree 5/16 inverted flare brass fittings. The cost was $3.00 each so I ordered several of them to be shipped to my home. I would like to thank everyone for their input on this topic. The internet is great for finding stuff like these items. It surprise's me that even NAPA does not carry these fitting and this is a standard brake and fuel line size. I will update everyone on the project after getting the new fuel line installed .Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

A PHILLY CHEESE STAKE is really only found in Philadelphia and the surrounding area. There is a long roll similar to a Grinder or Hoagie roll not a hotdog roll. And there is onloy one real roll company in Philly that makes the rolls. Then there is a special steak that sliced real thin and then grilled on a flat grill with some olive oil. Then it is chopped to a fine slivers. Most people put fried onions not slices but chopped and then they can put provolone cheese on the opened roll and then the steak and then the onions. Some shops use a whipped yellow orange cheese similar to velvita cheese and in Philly you say whit if you wan the melted cheese or whit out if you do not want the cheese. Also some people put hot and sweet peppers on the cheesesteak along with the fried onions. Other states try to imitate a Philly Cheese Steak but you can only get the original from Philly. You have to have a real good one if you ever come to Philadelphia. On the name of Hartung, I missed the show in which he mentioned the name so I am not sure if I am related. Rich Hartung

I guess you are talking about the guy on the far right. I purchased a NOS breaker Plate for my 39 Desoto and also purchased from a vendor for a good price a NOS steering sector for a 38 Plymouth. Hershey is changing, I did not find much for my 39 Desoto. I found the usual ignition parts but no real major parts. Did find a pair of used and I mean used headlight buckets, reflectors, glass, wiring harness and headlight chrome covers. The cost was $450. I already have several of these that are NOS so I did not need them another vendor hard the headlight rings and glass but the rings were all pitted. Walt came to Hershey with MR Landgon who makes the custom dual intake manifolds for our Mo Par cars. We had some great discussions and I was glad to meet this gentleman while at Walt's vending site. It was cloudy here in Philadelphia on Saturday and a little rain so do not know how the weather was at Hershey for the car show. Hopefully next year we can get more members to attend and maybe have a bigger crowd for some pictures. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here is a question for the group. My fuel line is 5/16 OD. I am having an issue trying to get a 90 degree inverted flare fitting with the 5/16 tapered fitting on both angles. For some unknown reason these are not being stocked by any of the major hydraulics and fitting suppliers. I even walked Hershey last week and could not find any fitting. They do have 1/4 and 3/8 fitting with the 90 degree flare inverted at NAPA. So, the question that I am asking, Would there be any major fuel issue if I changed the 5/16 OD to a 3/8 OD line I am increasing the ID approx. maybe a 1/16. Would there be any issue with to much fuel coming from the pump to the carb in a volume issue. I would not think so because the pump only puts out 3-5 lbs and the flaot also controls the amount of gas going into the carb bowl. Any input would be appreciated. When I have seen the 5/16 inverted flared 90 Degree fitting listed they are going for $13-15 each and if they are getting harder to find then lets go with a more common fitting and line since they are available and also cheaper. All 25 cents worth of input if fine by me. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Cell 484-431-8157

I went to the big meca known as Hershey Fall Swap Meet and car show on Wednesday 10/5/16. Had the opportunity to meet up with Walt Redmond and had some lunch together. I have attached a picture of us. Walt is to the left I am the one wearing the National Desoto Shirt. The weather was perfect. I walked about a total of 6 miles on Wednesday according to my cell phone. I was tired the next day.

I went to Hershey on Wednesday and meet up Walt Redmond. we talked for several hours and had lunch together. The weather was picture perfect this year in the mid 70's and sunny. I came across a SPICER U Joint catalog and inside it there was a section with pictures of the various Detroit Leather Boots that were used on the Ball Type U Joint. I am hoping this will clear up any confusion as to which boot is the proper boot that should be used on your car or truck. At the top of the page are pictures of the types that were used and then a listing of the various cars/tucks that used is style. As an example for my 39 Desoto model S6 the leather boot numbers that could have been used were 42083, 42085 420819, 42816 and then the rubber boot 420825. The preferred boot was the 42085 and or 420816 because these had the leather cone that was used to retain the grease in the body of the u joint. Hope this information clears up the subject. I will also be scanning the entire Spicer Catalog and it has some really great information. The Spicer catalog covers the year from 1936 to 1954. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com U Joint Boot Covers.pdf

I would suggest that you purchase your own parts book. This way you will always have the information on the parts and the pictures of the parts. To rely on all of the other members to copy and paste the data and pictures is time consuming. Owning an antique car or truck or motocycle you shouls always get the necessary parts and sevice manual for your car. you do not need the MoPar orginals, you can get reprints because they are just reference material and when being judges the parts and service manuals do not count for judging. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Clayton: I agree with Ply Adams. The hole doesn't look kosher to me either. ANd the cylinder wall is very rough and pitted. Would not waste the time on this engine, just my 25 cents on this topic. Rich Hartung

Try your NAPA dealer they have the straight hose for your radiator. Just need to know the inside diameter size. For what year car would also help. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

OK. If you can still read the webpage we will be meeting on Wednesday Oct 5th at 12 NOON on the Top at the middle of the bridge o walkway that crosses over from the Chocolate field into the GREEN Field. Several members have already been updated. I will be leaving on Wednesday morning around 7 Am so if you want to contact me then reach me on my cell phone 484-431-8157 Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Now I know the hobby has definitely changed. I have been looking for a couple of 90 degree flared fits to reroute a fuel line. I have gone to two NAPA's, Pep Boys, AutoZone and another Auto supply parts house that are all local to my home. NO ONE is carrying these anymore. So I guess I will have to look for them at HERSHEY this week. So my suggestion is that when ever you are at a local swap meet start looking to purchase some of these brass connecter for your lines seems that the industry is doing away with these items. If I do not find them at Hershey then off to McMaster and Carr to purchase from their catalog. Rich Hartung

I have two shutoff valves on my 39 Desoto. One is on the head at the back where the water comes out of the head and the other at the bypass. This enables me to completely shutoff any water flow tot he heater. Hartung

Here is a picture of what I think you are looking for. The unit on the bottom is a shutoff valve that can screw right into the bypass unit and the one on the top is the curve hose tube. Not there is not hole drilled into the bottom of the unit. I have several of the tube model. I like the use of the shutoff vale because you can then control the flow of the water going to returning back to the radiator via the heater core. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com