desoto1939

Here is a page from my 34-41 Miller tool catalog; I does show that they did have drive in style zerk fitting both for straight and angled fitting. tool number d-437 Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Here is some info taken from my speedometer cable catalog. This was taken from my AC speedometer catalog. Hope it helps. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

when you register for the Hershey event they remind you that everyone should have a PA sales tax number and that you should write your PA sale Tax id number on the registration form. I have know that the PA revenue has been at Hershey but I think over the years they go after the real big venders that make their living off of selling parts such as Cocker tires and other big venders. If you do not have a visible license they then can shut you down or ask that you file a report on what you sold. I know most small time venders do not charge PA 6% sales tax. Rich Hartung

I agree. But how many people here have yard sales and only do cash sales. So in the same vein this should also be counted as income. I can say that most home owners have done a yard sale or a community yard sale. Rich Hartung

I know this is not a regulat topic but will also affect every member of the club and anyone that sells items via a webpage provider. Please go to the article and read the information that I posted. I am not a tax preparer but jus posting the information. Please do not take this posting down it is for informational purposes for the members. Thanks, Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I have attached an information sheet that I received from Pay Pal regarding the dollar amount of sales that will be reported to the IRS for 2025, 2026 and 2027. So of the biggest sellers might get hit with a 1099-k form. SO make sure you track your sales, the cost of each item that initially it cost you, travel cost and any other expenses to purchase the item along with postage to ship the item food and also lodging cost. Like traveling to Hershey, the cost of a vendor site, etc. The Fed Gov't needs money so they are going after every $$$$$$$$ than they can get their hands on. So starting in 2025 I would suggest that you only deal in cash, money orders or personal check or a bank check. Do you own research on this information Rich hartung.

I agree with Tom, Since you do not know when you are going to use the engine, and maybe never, Definately use penetrating oil in the engine. If it was me I would try to get the engine into your heated basement to also help eliminate any moisture and also the heated area of the basement will help with preventing any rust. Then every several months then go down and had turn over the engine to keep the cylinder walls lubricated. Maybe put in some used sparkplugs or plugs the holes. If the holes are pluged then remove the plugs before you try to turnover the engine while in storage. Could also put in a use head gasket without any gasket sealer and thne tighen the head but to to full spec's just to seal the head and also lessen any rust issues. If the head is tight you can always remove the head to check on the wals of the cylinders every so often. But good plans or mice and men go astray. Also I would not wrap the engine in plastic because that kind of traps moisture, maybe a breathable cover like a blanket. Rich Desoto1939@aol.com

If have an Autolite IGS4102-c original dist in my 39 Desoto. I pull the dist and replaced the breaker plate with a NOS unit. Set up the points to a 20 gap with a snap gap tool. Then when testing the gap at each point on the dist cam I am noticing that on some points on the cam the points are not opening or are smaller than the 20 gap. Has anyone else had an issue like this. The dist shaft is nice and tight no slop, no slop in the breaker plate. Could i have a worn spot on the cam. Since most 6 cylinder Mopar car/trucks used the Autolite dist would anybody know if another cam from a later autolite dist would work as a replacement cam? My Autolite catalogs do not list this part so i can not do any cross checking. Any and all help appreciated. I have put out swome fellers to several of the major Mopar parts venders. Thanks, Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Solly: Remember that you will not get a real hard pedal like to now have on your modern cars. There is always some travel distance when applying the brake pedal and how the pushrod moves. Before making any adjustment on the pushrod please refer to your factory service manual in the brake section. It will tell you the distance of the free play for your car. Also remember that you are dealing with a braking system that was designed in the early 1930's. You have to have a mindset of this when driving your car now in the modern times and the reaction of brake fade in these old cars is a known factor. I have a 39 Desoto with the 11 inch brakes. Yes, I can stop my car but I always anticipate a potential stop when approaching an intersection that is controlled by traffic light. When approaching a light and it is green and I see a bunch of cars coming towards me in a group then I assume? that the light has recently turned green for my oncoming traffic. If there is a lot of space between the cars or only a single car in a row then I assume, Again, that the light will be turning to yellow and then to red. You always have to have your mind and driving skills in tune with the od antique car and how it reacts to your driving and to the appropriate driving situation. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

since we assume that the car either has been repainted or not the original color black that is on the car currently has faded over the years because if was probably as single stage paint and they did not use any clear coat. People think that black is black, but this is not correct. When they mix paint colors to get to a specific color there is a mix ratio. A rattle can of black might work but suggest that you try this on something then compare the color. Also you should strip the old wax off the metal that you are going to respray, if not then the new paint might not be smooth because of the oil and wax on the metal. Talk to a body shop guy to get their opinion on how to match the color. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I had a very small leak at one of my bleeder screws on my right rear brake. I found out that the taper on the end of the bleder screw was not the correct taper and that the fluid would then work its way out via the threads of the bleeder screw. I was able to find the correct bleeder screw and this solved my problem. saw a wet spot on the backer plate and had to look hard to find the issue but i found it. Take a look around the brake hose and also bleeder screw. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Sounds like brake shoes out of adjustment and the shoes and not close enough to the drum. Do you have access to an Ammco 1750 Brake gage to get them set up correctly? This tool is not cheap but if you plan to keepthe car this one of the tools that you will need to purchase or even borrow if you can to get the shoes adjusted properly. Also go the technical section and do a search on the Ammco brake gage tool. i have done several seminars about this tool. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Also when replacing the brake light switch, mechanical one not electric. I also block up and support the brake pedal arm so that the pedal can not get pushed down and then release brake fluid and then let air enter the brake lines. My brake switch on my 39 desoto screws into a brake line and brake light brass connector that is mounted on the frame in the engine compartment area. Some of the older master cylinder had the brake switch mounted on the end of the master cylinder. Not sure of where yours is mounted. Like stated above if you touch the two wires that go in to the switch and your brake lights light up then you have a complete circuit. If not, then there is an eclectic power issue. So the Master cylinder could also be low on fluid and not enough fluid is being pushed through the line to push the internal contact to activate the connection to make the brake light come on. Very simple switch when you think about how it works. Rich hartung Rich Hartung

Farmer John: yes you are correct with your statement. I missed adding in the 0 for the example. so in my example the correct measurement is 11.010 or then thousandths over. If I do go through with this idea I would create a form and instruction sheet along with an area for the mechanic to write in the appropriate information. Rich Hartung

It would be the responsibility of the owner of the car to get each drum micro metered to know the exact diameter f the, Example 11.10 11 inchs and 10 thousandths over. Then send me the respective shoes for each drum indicating where they are located on the car. Example Right Rear 11.20 then label the right rear shoes with this information then do the same for the left rear according to the measurement of the left drum. The owner ships the brake shoes to me at their cost. I cut the linings according to the supplied information. I then send the shoes back to them at their cost, maybe in a USPO if it fits it ships. Then I charge them for the service $20 for all four shoes or $10 for one side. There are not many places that even have the tool to cam-grind the shoes and very few people that even know how to do this work. Rich Hartung

OK: I have a question for the members. I have an opportunity to purchase an AMMCO Safe Arc cam brake shoe grinder, that I have seen and know the motor works and is complete along with the Ammco Brake 1750 brake gage tool. The owner is local to me and has offered the tools at $500 for both as a set. I currently have a 1750 ammco brake tool and also the factory Miller brake setting tool MT-19 and the miller Tru-brake tool that uses the adapters parts so that you can also arc the shoes when the shoes are on each axle. I also have the Ammco Micrometer 16 inch tool to take an exact measurement on the inside diameter of each drum and also the metal bar that is used to setup the tool so that the gage is set to tell you the correct diameter of a drum. SO I know I can sell the extra ammco brake gage tool and this will lower my total cost. I also have the instruction manual of the Ammco safe Arc tool. Figure that i could also let owners with drum brakes know that i Have the arcing tool and then make some cash to help payoff the tool. What would everyone think would be a fait price to charge for a complete axle set of four shoes? Also have to consider that the owner would have to pay shipping both ways to send/receive back the four shoes. I was figuring around $20 for a complete axle set??????? Need input on this entire idea. It not like I have to have the tools but these tools are hard to find and I can get the tools locally and not have to deal with any shipping fees especailly on the safe arc tool which is very heavy. All input and replies are welcome. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

they used a Gland Nut to thread into the side of the head. It is a brass nut and then the tube from the end of the mechanical temp gage threads into the gland nut. Also notice the welsh plug directly above the gland nut. If you have to remove the bulb from the gland nut they ususualy get stuck in the glad nut. By twisting the tube you might break the bulb and then it is a pain to replace the entire temp gage and also costly. SO, Drain the engine then pull out the welsh or otherwise known as freeze plug. You will then see the end of the tube inthe opening. Spay lot of PB Blaster in the area and let is soak over night. Then take a soft mallet and then try to tap out the bulb from the inside of the hole take you time, might have to respray more PB Blaster to loosen up the tube or you might get lucky and it will pop out. Clean around the opening put in some sealing material and then put in a Brass Welsh plug. Open the attachment with pictures and this will make it easier to understand the process. The little nut next to number 6 sparkplug is used to time the engine. Rich Hartung How to safely remove the temp gage end from the side of the engine head.docx

I did some research on Non-Detergent and detergent motor oils: read the attached article it might be of interest to everyone. This is also going to be posted in my local AACA club. Everyones input is of importance so do not feel that you will hurt my feelings. I am just reporting on what I was able find while doing a search on detergent and non-detergent motor oils. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com detergent vs non detergent motor oil.docx

I looked in my wagner brake catalog and looked up the master cylinder info for your car. You use the filler cap # FC4073 and the gasket is FC5922. refer to the picture 13c which is the filler cap and the gasket which is listed below it as FC522 Then go to picture 14 filler cap gasket FC5922 is listed as a fibre gasket 1 17/64 - 1 1/2 If you go to a Napa store with this information they might have it in stock or can order you one. This is again where having cross reference and old car manufacture catalogs comes in handy. On the last page go to the bottom of the sheet and look at FE17632 that is your master cylinder for your car Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

if you have the correct dist in your car which should be IGS4207-1 for a USA P15 or Canadian P15 the dist is model IGS4208b-1. Both take the following Autolite parts: Cap IGC-1107s Rotor: IGS-1016B Contact set IGP-3028ES Condensor IG-3927G Breaker Plate IGS-3004 The Standard or Bluestreak numbers are: AL98 Rotor same as IGS-1016B AL96 Dist Cap same as IG-1070s You use the same components that I use on my 1939 desoto so from 1939-1948 the 6 cylinder mopar cars all used the same internal dist components. I like the Autolite parts since they were the original parts that MoPar put on the car. Rich hartung

Plymouthy: yes I agree in regards to the color of the Durham bodied car. Does not seem to be period correctness on the color. But the coach work of being a Durham Custom Bodies car is the main point that I am trying to point out and that it is a local car from the Philadelphia area and you do not get the opportunity to see a durham bodied car and or even truck. In another local museum call 3 dog garage which is also in Boyertown there is a Model B ford truck that has a custom body that was designed by the Durham Body works. Rich Hartung

Last weekend my local AACA club went on a car tour and we went to the Boyertown Car Museum in Boyertown, PA. The museum is the old Boyertown Truck Body Manufacturing Plant. Boyertown Boded trucks were their main business and they were very popular in our area. If you ever get to the Allentown or Chester County area plan a visit. They trace the history of all vehicles from sleight, coaches-buggies, bicycles and cars and trucks that have either been manufactured within the tri county area. Some very unique cars and trucks. When I first entered the museum I saw the back end on 1937 Chrysler and from the rear I knew it was a Durham Bodied car. Durham body works is a famous custom body compnay that was located in Rosemont, Pa which is next to Villanova near Villanova college. Upon reading the attached poster on this car I also learned that Durham Body Works was at one time a Chrysler Desoto dealership. The current building is nw the Algar Motor company that sell lotus and other high prices cars. Also of note is that the picture of the one carriage was made by the Wolfington Coach Company that later on became the Wolfington Desoto dealership located at 34 and Chestnut street in Philadelphia, PA. The dealership is closed but the name is still being used in Exton PA as the Wolfington Bus Company. I have shown my 1939 Desoto to the Great Grandson that nw runs the Bus company and told him that my 1939 Desoto was sold out of the Wolfington Dealership back in 1939. Also during my visit he informed me that the Wolfington dealership also did custom bodied cars and that they would share between them and Durham when ever they needed additional experienced craftsman. I told the tour guide about the history of my car and they then took pictures of my car after our tour was completed. I have attached pictures of these cars and the carriage for your viewing pleasure. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

we all know that just within the last year the cost of food, living, clothing has gone up along with gas. So trying to compare parts and engine prices with todays cost versus 2003 which is 21 years ago basically is irrelevant. If you want to play that you have to pay. So can i compare the cost to strip my 1939 Desoto to bare metal, all the doors removed fenders removed glass tkaen out and replaced with new glass, new headliner installed, new tires installed on painted rim and pin striped and the painter even helped me assemble the car and this price of $2900 included all of the above. Yes $2900 cash so can i compare that to todays cost, not really. Five new ribbed Goodyears white wall tires now cost me $1500 plus mounting back in 1996 I paid around $625. So yes prices have gone up and so have the manufacturing costs and also the supply factor to consider. Look at the price to take your car to the mechanic getting $150 hr at the dealership and maybe more, INFLATION has ARRIVED. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I took my old original pp that was in the car a long time ago. Around 1990 I had the clutch plate and pressure plate installed. I matched up the bolt holes and the bolt hole on the one that I got at Hershey and both PP align up perfectly. And both are a 10 inch PP disk. It is a rebuilt PP and I picked this rebuilt PP up at Hershey for only, and yes this is the correct price, of $5. The seller was tired of carrying the item and did not want to take it home with him. I measured the plate and it was 10 inches and my 39 Desoto uses the 10 inch plate. At the same time he had two water distribution tubes of sale had $25 each. Said he had a deal for me and I got both of them for $15, gave him 20 then gave me 5 inchange, then saw the PP on the ground, picked it up, inspected it saw that it was the correct model, a little surface rust of the exterior side of the plate, but no pitting, He said give him the 5 dollars that he just handed to me and the pp is mine. Transaction completed. For $5 why not give it a try. So there are good items to find at Hershey just have to be the lucky guy this time. I know one friend of mine purchased a NOS Sisson Choke for his Dodge last year for only the total outstanding price of $10. This year I also found a a panel and dash light switch for my 39 Desoto for only $3.00, picked that up at a MoPar vender. So you have to look at these different vendors and do a total look over and if something catches your eye then go in a do some shopping, you never know what is hidden on a table. Rich hartung

Ok, need some help. Went to Hershey and pickup a B&B type 10A7 pressure plate. This is the type that was used on out MoPar cars. The plate is 10 inches across. On the cover they have stamped # 1368 and another number is xxed out but think it might be 972 but not sure. i matched the mounting hole of a PP that i had taken out of my 39 Desoto. I have checked my B&B pressure plate and clutch catalog and can not find any thing on the number 1319. I got it for a good price but trying to determine if it will fit my car or what cars and years. Anyone that might have some info please contact me at desoto1939@aol.com. Thes PP came in a deal of two water dist tubes one 23 and the other a 25 inch water tube. The deal was to good to pass up. I have helped others so now its my time to ask for help. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com