50mech

I find twist to be a lot more accurate with a modern belt. I typically use a tension guage. Manual calls for 1/4" deflection with finger pressure on the longest span but belts are more heavily reinforced now, they flex a lot less. If you look at truck manuals from the 80s you'll see that the factories had started recommending a certain amount of flex at a certain pressure. For a 7/16 belt we're now looking at about 90lbs of pressure to make it flex 1/4" along a 16" span to give the same amount of static preload that used to be achieved with finger pressure according to Gates. The end result of tension at the pulleys is the same when installed it just takes a lot more to flex a modern belt. Problem is that makes it hard to use the old school deflection method without a spring scale or gauge and get anywhere close to consistent results. The deflection a modern belt gives at light pressure and proper preload is just too small, the window is really narrow. Twist isn't nearly as affected by the lengthwise reinforcement so its roughly the same as it's always been.

Whether 6v or 12 the generic kits use the same switch. They only change the flasher and sometimes the indicator bulb. Any 6v flasher will work. No relays necessary. The brake light switch is there for combination use. Since a lot of the cars these would go on are simply using their parking/brake lights for turn signals they don't have dual filament or separate turn signals/ brake lights , the brake switch still needs to activate the rear lamps. Can't just leave it the way it is or brakes override turn signal.

Also, you don't necessarily have to worry about current being increased because of the 6v. Compare the load. An 1154 (6v) bulb uses 2.63/.75 amp on its two filaments. The common 12v version (1157) uses 2.1/.59 The difference is actually negligible on standard bulbs. 6v bulbs are simply lower wattage.

I would nix the led indicator if your 6v is pos ground. LEDs are polarity sensitive. Bulbs that are not polarity sensitive are commonplace but that's because they use an integrated solid state driver. Due to the internal circuitry of the driver having one even parallel with and incandescent can sometimes cause a non working or flickering issue which will drive you crazy from the inconsistent flickering combined with blinking. I would also nix it if you want to run the 3wire flasher. It uses two switches and the led won't trip the p terminal. Not to mention, with a mechanical voltage regulator, they often flicker erratically. A 12v switch with relays being used would definitely have no problems. Without....maybe but usually they are pretty well overrated as far as current goes. The circuit might be able to be simplified to a single relay by using a three terminal flasher. Indicator lights are typically just tapped from the front turn signal power. All this being said.....why re-invent the wheel here? Hundreds of cars to choose from to just copy the factory circuit...they're time tested and work extremely reliably. Though only about 3 variations I've seen used. Unless you want to go to electronic flashers then there are some considerations but I see no reason to do so without wanting to use all LED.

Those tube supports will be hard to find, but you'll probably have luck with a push nut. Maybe even an axle cap type drilled through.

Also one last inexpensive idea. Tube support insert. Like one of these https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/lead-free-brass-tube-support-insert-1-2-od-tubing?variant=13249606909995&c1=GAW_SE_NW&source=PLA_USA_SS&cr2=smart_shopping__-__all_products_112768&kw=12020_24944_0&cr6=pla&cr7=m&utm_campaign=gs-2020-01-06&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvIT5BRCqARIsAAwwD-T0wLJ_wdUIZ4s29NRyYwh3XJrjvkMMmxA6l3HQDpu-aVabcOhKapMaAuuSEALw_wcB Or these https://www.belmetric.com/15mm-outer-hosebrdiameter-c-1041_1131_1147/fer12sleeve-ferrule-sleeve-p-6345.html

Or....of course... A speedi sleeve since that's pretty much exactly what that is.

All I can think is to heat it and pry. Any reason you couldnt use a regular push nut or shaft collar? My other thought would be to make one. You can get a flaring tool like is used for brake line all the way up to an inch. Standard ones go to 5/8" if it's not bigger than that. Here's a cheapie that goes to 3/4" Although for one time use I'd be tempted to make my own flaring tool by drilling hole in something to accept the tube, countersinking then grinding a taper on a bolt or something to hammer a flare out. https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Professional-Flaring-Swaging-10-Piece/dp/B07QCRW7Q6/ref=pd_aw_vtp_328_3/138-6004676-5427559?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07QCRW7Q6&pd_rd_r=b79c0823-593f-4699-ae5e-f19ab330acb9&pd_rd_w=SIvAs&pd_rd_wg=DbBQc&pf_rd_p=5085589e-0bcd-4a9b-8586-5f6f4081dcbe&pf_rd_r=8FFAMV0J99E2NPV03058&psc=1&refRID=8FFAMV0J99E2NPV03058 Some thinwall steel tubing flared and cut to length would mimic that really well.

Lab-metal can be used to fill pits before powder coating. Hopefully yours got clear coat. Chrome powders all have terrible UV resistance. Clear coating with some good 2k is pretty much a requirement for anything that's gonna see much daylight. Super chrome has been discontinued but Prismatic says A top coat is highly recommended and actually required if you want Super Chrome or other high content metallic finishes to not oxidize

I believe this pic is the factory valve. Good luck on one of those , the examples I've found have $600-900 price tags. If that ones in with the flow backwards then whether that spring would hold it totally closed against the flow is ??? A four seasons 74662 or 74677 or maybe 74648 would make a decent replacement I think but there are a ton out there, you'd have to go through em. 677 goes 1/2 to 5/8 in the right direction. The others use 5/8, not sure if the threads are correct on the screw in. 74685 has the cable bracket at a right angle to the hoses but it's all 5/8 Not that adapting would be difficult. Even cleanly if you search the parts store for a preformed hose that changes from 1/2 to 5/8 and cut out a portion of it. Or a 5/8 barb adapter to screw in the block.

I'm betting on the control valve being 1. Aftermarket 2. Installed backwards After checking into why they are directional I found they are a flap type valve. Pressure can open it slightly by just flexing the cable if it's backwards. It may only do so well above idle. With the cable springing it **** again when going back to idle. When looking at valves with 1/2" and 5/8" connections the most common are made to flow towards the 1/2" side.

I think the factory valve screws right in the head. This is probably one of the many universal type valves. A picture of it might help. Not sure how important it is but most are directional for some reason. They also are quite often bad.

So yes to be totally original you'd need two wire sockets isolated. Which I also found they issued a tsb in 56 making the 55 sockets available separately from the harness due to too many failures of the sockets. Pn2963861 if it helps any. Kind of doubt it but figured I'd pass that along.

Ok finally hit me. I looked up the pn specific to the 55 Pontiac flasher unit. It's also used on olds and Cadillac from 53-60. Each of those diagrams show the same wiring so there's no mistake here. The only ground available here is through the load, just as is normal for the flashers heater. Notice that the left hand indicator lamp is connected to the right hand signals, and vice versa. So, turn on the left signal and the left lamp gets power, P gets power and passes it to both indicators. The right hand indicator can't light because it's now wired positive to positive with no ground. The left indicator lights because the right signal isn't on and it can use it for a ground. It just doesn't pass enough current through that tiny indicator lamp to light that signal. Same way the internal heater operates when the lamp is off by grounding through it but severely limiting current. Eureka!

Yeah, who knows where that spring came from, just about anything 1-3/4" wide and within a couple inches of the right length could be popped in there. A lot of factors go into ride height, you could have a spring with 4 leafs that has a greater pack thickness and more arch that would add 3" ride height over the 10 leaf springs. Or for example looking at the chart here https://p15-d24.com/topic/40661-leaf-spring-swap/ You can see two 8 leaf with nearly the same arch, but a 250lb capacity difference because of pack thickness. In fact the heavier springs have 3/8" less arch but I bet they would ride a good bit higher on the same car.

As far as I know P is only capable of providing 12+ or it's open.

Obvious spring mismatch aside, it's Not mismatching a spring shackle on one side is it?

So did the needle bearing make any difference?

Should both be 8. No model used 10. HD springs were 9 or 7.

Actually sounds like a bad sender if it maxed at 7 ohms. Though if for some reason it was reading in 10x that would be basically dead on correct. A lot of digitals have 10x set by the buttons at top and just show a little indicator on screen. Looks like 10-73 is the right range so with room for error in rounding 20-70 would be acceptable.

I can't make sense of it either. Even with a two wire socket it would still do the same thing. P and L are powered at the same time on a typical 3 prong flasher. Even if they weren't, two wire or one. This would make it alternate between both indicators lit and just the side being used. Even if the sockets were isolated. The way it's wired to P is gonna light both at some point in all scenarios I can think of. A dual filament bulb with a two wire socket and chassis ground is all that makes sense, then both would light but the one being used would blink brightly. Thing is, 55 and 56 call for the same bulb. I'd probably use just x and l and let the single wire sockets work as in the 56.

Here we go.

Oh okay....I couldn't see it in the video before....your 55 manual does show 3 wire flasher unit......

Well there you go. I'm not sure I understand. Were you not trusting the shop manuals diagram?