50mech

I believe your color diagram is in error and the signals based on something else entirely. Three wire flasher didn't come in until 59 and the signal wiring in your schematic most closely resembles a 61 tempest. 55 Pontiac shop manual includes no turn signals. 56 Pontiac shop manual separates the turn signal diagram while repeating the same diagram as 55 for the rest of the car. I think you'll find the 56 signal diagram accurate.

Unfortunately that meter isn't going to work for resistance here. I looked up the manual for a gmt 312 and it actually does only measure resistance in thousands of ohms. When 1 is actually 1000, 30 is going to look like zero. You may be able to see a voltage change if you run the meter in series. Sender unhooked but grounded, one lead on car wire one on sender terminal. Depending on the operation of this meter it may still not show ( depends if it uses an internal shunt)

Not if you make the measurements with the wires hooked up and power on. Have the sender hooked to nothing sitting on a bench. One lead where the wire goes, one lead on the body of the sender. Then move the arm. Setting should just be ohms x10....not 1k. Your sender maxes at like 30ohms or 70 can't remember which. Nowhere near thousands of ohms. So the meter should move between zero and 3 or zero and 7.

Yes and since velocity is relative, impact energy is shared evenly between the two objects. Raising the speed of the less solid object only makes it crush more.

Single wire unit, blue wire , steady power at ign on from ign switch to gauge , 1 blue wire from gauge to sender.

Here's a visual of how it works internally. Two coils, both get power from the SW post. One grounds to the frame, one to the sender post. Powered up they fight each other, change in resistance at the sender determines the power one of the coils get. If the other gets none because of a broken wire or corrosion at the frame then the one controlled by the sender always wins.

Sounds like the guage itself doesn't have a good chassis ground or is bad on the empty side. The guage moving to full when power is applied and sender is grounded just tells you the full side coil is good and has a complete circuit. Empty side is grounded through the chassis. Measure resistance across the sender and move it looking for corresponding change , it's likely good.

Hah, i think the super power I got was forgetting everything I hear. Had a bit of trouble with anything not visual the past few days. A friend mentioned super powers. I said I already had them, how do you think I walked away? Lol

Resistance to ground should be checked on the gen with the wires disconnected . You're basically just checking for shorts. That said, you sort of inadvertently did the basic generator test and it passes. That's faults your VR in a basic test. There's a good chance this VR is now burnt out. But before you go through all the VR tests try this; Run a jumper wire directly from battery ground to the VR case and be sure it has good contact with the body also. Then see how it operates. If it can't get a good ground through the case then two things are gonna happen. 1. Parts of it will get ground through a load....like your ignition system. 2. It can't get enough current through that load to properly operate the coils in the VR, so field never opens, arm never closes.... battery overcharges and eventually the cutout sticks closed and tries running the generator as a motor. That would explain the odd correlation to your ignition points.

Ahahaha!...."so simple a woman can understand it" Wonder if Geico considered that slogan?

My current one is a 4.9 which will probably outlast the rest of the van. 355k on it so far. The E4OD trans I just replaced at 345k. It's no wonder though, engine and trans are massive hulk's that handle basically no power lol. Although after being struck by lightning my steering gearbox lost a seal in one direction and shortly after the other direction and I have a squeak in the rear u joint and somewhere in the steering.

https://books.google.com/books?id=390DAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA43&lpg=PA43&dq=frank+e+williams+lifetime+spark+plug&source=bl&ots=VUZSt4Cmrq&sig=ACfU3U0X-s8VAGiMgFjBbC_C7BqLqTkPEw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj2-6yU7-LqAhWQTt8KHbj_BcwQ6AEwAnoECAYQAQ#v=onepage&q=frank e williams lifetime spark plug&f=true Took another 20 years for most major manufacturers to start using copper and platinum-nickel electrodes in automotive plugs out of necessity due to increased time spent at high freeway speeds. (An ad from 1 year earlier called the electrode a platinum-nickel alloy rather than "platonium") Of course some of the snake oil parts they've pushed many times over the years. Interesting.

Well, hopefully the needle bearings do the trick. As best I understand the negative caster setup in these is to make manual steering easier while the wheel return is derived entirely from kingpin inclination. Supposedly the camber does change caster on them, but only very little. Assuming measurements and binding checks you did were with it jacked up on the control arms, it really only leaves the kingpins binding under weight...... Again I'm just tossing around ideas... hoping maybe something will click.

Thanks! But no, it didn't seem like much happened until the next day. Even then, welders flash and sore muscles I figured they would just do as I would. " Here's an aspirin, drink water" The whole thing was confusing and I don't think I got a whole lot of it. Nearest I can guess it hit really close, traveled some path that included the van, my ladder and me.

I kind of want one actually. Just need to test drive some. As an aside my friends f250 also very obviously shows the negative effects of having a rather light vehicle sprung for very heavy loads ( way to fluff those numbers) on the dirt road leading to his house. Holy crap that thing rides like a log wagon. 5mph max and it's still rough, while the van cruises comfortably at 15 and the Plymouth you'll do 25 and not really notice you're on dirt.

Newer ones can be a bit deceptive though. My 1993 e150 comes across the scales at close to it's claimed gross weight of 6700lbs. While my friends 2019 f250 four door comes across closer to curb weight of another model at 5600. I get crumple absorbing impact and all but I also understand when calculating inertia weight is squared while speed is not. Pretty sure my little van would crush his ( mostly made of cardboard , I joke, much larger) truck.

So two days ago I was struck by lightning while driving my van. Windows down , it just began to rain and about 30 seconds later felt my left arm hair raise and then BAM . It was like a flash bang grenade. I was blinded by light for 3-4 seconds and felt like I was in an oven.. My right arm was burned. Left was steaming where it was wet from rain. Next day had a severe case of welders flash and very sore muscles and joints from one arm through the other and across my back and shoulders. I found arc burns on my left rear rim and tire. Still suffering a bit of flash and headaches. My only regret is I wasn't doing 88mph at the time, I would have liked going back to November 5 1955.

These interiors are particularly easy and simple. Any sewing machine with a little power will do. I use the oft copied older necchi machine on everything but Arctic vinyl and as mentioned the old singers and nearly all the copies of them will do it it too. Tear out the old with a seam ripper trace it for a pattern and re- sew as it was. You'll have fun.

Ok so looking through any post I could find about this car a few things stand out. Just thinking out loud here. 1. The car mysteriously rode too high in the front. 2. It won't steer correctly with anything close to factory adjustments and geometry 3. The spindle spacers esi made to fit a 49 DeSoto convertible didn't fit. 4. The rear section of the frame was bent for a not completely clear reason. Given it seems you've gone to great lengths to check and correct everything else. Mysteriously bad steering and mysteriously high ride height and some sort of odd deviation in parts fitting just seems to really point to it wearing the wrong parts. If it were me I would concentrate on that, even to the point of getting all components from another car rather than deviating wildly from factory settings.

That's why I thought it wasn't the same car. I think myself and everyone else answering envisioned something entirely factory.

Could compare the steering effort for both of your cars sitting on turn plates. ( Even home brews like vinyl tiles and grease) That way you could positively eliminate or confirm whether any binding exists with the weight on the wheels. If not then you could confidently focus on certain aspects of the geometry.

Is this the same 49 convertible with esi disc conversion? That required spindle spacers that pushed the hub out 3/8"? I would think it's possible that altered scrub radius on a car with negative caster could give this effect. Particularly if it made it come up to or across the zero line. I haven't fooled around on these cars with rim offsets or anything else that would change the scrub radius enough to know from experience though so........

I like the tail light job particularly. Edit: not so big a fan of the amount of roof chop without a whole lot of other stuff to balance that but I still think it's fantastic work.

All the modern replacement caps I've seen are pressure relief type and almost always have too stiff of a spring.

You could flow test your pump. Procedures in the tech section here.