50mech

Also according to my manual 165 is correct except in a very cold climate.

If your housing has a port that runs forward to the water pump then it's external bypass and needs the second thermostat. If it doesn't it's just nternal bypass and needs the type you have.

I think part of your post went missing....?

Sure, $50-$150 a piece to rechrome them, alsa easychrome or chrome fx along with some lab metal is probably the closest analog to actually re chroming.

If you have a meter you can test the condenser by putting it on say 10k ohm range , touching the leads at each end then swapping the leads. Should indicate a change. If it's digital should get a flash or two of a resistance, then limit. Analog should show needle movement. Either way it should max out the resistance pretty quick but not immediately. In this case I'd suspect it's shorted. It will show low resistance if my guess is correct. I get 5.5v cranking. I don't think 5 will matter on all stock. Only mattered when hot with my pertronix.

I'd suspect the points not opening wide enough or the condenser , condenser more likely for sudden failure.

California push pull. Works with cablecraft parts and more of their own. Here's their automotive catalog. Certain they can make up what you need for a reasonable price. https://push-pull.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/California-Push-Pull-Catalog.pdf

I've noticed on these that a lean condition ( especially from semi clogged jets) can sound like an ignition misfire too....of course a carb rebuild is pretty much always a good idea on anything that's sat a while. Looks like your heat riser doesn't move and appears to be stuck in the heating position ( counterclockwise). You'll want to address that.

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Positive ground or negative?

Spoke with pertronix tech support and they state the module needs 5.2v with a 1.5 ohm coil in line. Not a large margin considering healthy cranking voltage is 5.5. They didn't recommend running any lower resistance coil. However I asked about running a .7ohm coil with a ballast resistor and cutting out the ballast resistor while cranking. They said that would be perfectly fine. Only hitch here is that the way the ignitor is wired in a pos ground system the wire running from the starter terminal to the coil, forward of the resistor will need a diode. Otherwise key on it would try to run the starter through the coil and smoke some stuff. So I think in the future I will be changing to that setup just to give a larger margin of error to the system. For now , it works so it will stay for a while. Like this quick sketch. Or, I may be able to wire from the solenoid trigger instead.

I'll plug the knockoff yf Ford 75-82 carb again. Brand new $65. Works like a charm. Warm air type choke works great just running some metal fuel/brake line down by the manifold. Automatic high and intermediate idle. Vacuum holes at the bottom of the carb are slotted in the base so any gasket works. Only mod required is taking the ball stud off and drilling the hole a hair larger. Electric choke version as well.

Can't upload any more to show it finished but you get the idea. I used 3/8 threaded rod and coupling nuts. I drilled and tapped the coupling nuts halfway down for 7/16-20. ( Because good luck getting 7/16-20 rod and coupling nuts) At the eye end I screwed it in. At the rod end I screwed in a 7/16-20 bolt and then cut the head off to make it a stud for the rod to screw onto. Finally once I got it all cut to length I placed a piece of 3/8 galvanized pipe over the threaded rod , which had been cut to 1/16 over the length of gap between coupling nuts. The threaded rod holds it all together tesion wise but the nuts/pipe stack takes all the compression force when braking....very very strong assembly. It stretches the rod very roughly ( total guess) 6". I used what appear to be the same residual valves @Sam Buchanan used in his install. The brakes work great. I'll post full install details to it's own thread. Oh, and the MC reservoir can be easily accessed. It's not under the seat. I finally looked up whos mounting I copied. @Robert Horne Here's his thread https://p15-d24.com/topic/22442-master-cylinder-48-dodge/?tab=comments#comment-218520

Ok, finished my brake installation other than an mc cover for the floorboard. I am running the original drum/drum setup. 1" bore Vette style mc. I mounted the new master directly against the old master with a piece of angle iron in the last two original master bolts like another member here did. Heres my pushrod started.

Yes, it was only getting about 4.3 during cranking....now 5.5 No longer hard to start hot, and cranks faster as well.

Update: Hard warm starting came back with a vengeance. This time not until a good 30-40min drive though instead of 10. The car exhibited the same problems as @BloodyKnuckles thread here. https://p15-d24.com/topic/25525-odd-problem-with-fuel-pumps-thats-plural/#comments Seemed to be boiling the fuel at the pump bowl onward and it could be seen in the glass filter at the carb doing the same. After a lot of chasing I found 3 issues in the fuel system. 1. I had installed a brass hose nipple in the tank but it did not go deep enough to compress against the flare on the pickup line. Once fuel dropped under point it exits the tank, I was sucking air from inside the tank. I fixed this with a ball from a compression fitting. 2. Pinhole in fuel line at the frame right under the crank pulley. 3. The brass hose nipple at the inlet side of the pump would allow air through the threads....but only when hot. Teflon tape resolved that. Now I don't get fuel bubbles or air but that did not fix the hot starts. I checked the spark and it was now weak when hot. I replaced the wire from ground+ to the coil and changed its position to the battery cable lug on the head. ( Pertronix so coil is wired with the ignitor on the neg side into the dizzy. Bass ackwards from the points wiring) Also cleaned that spot and replaced that battery cable. Problem fixed. I figured if I went over enough of you guys' suggestions id find it out. Thanks all! Also I think I'll drop to a 1ohm coil. If 1.5 is this sensitive to a ground that really wasn't too bad looking and worked until it was hot, and the ignitor needs a .45ohm minimum I think being more in the middle of the range of correct operation is a better bet.

Wide open with no load yes, mechanical will take over entirely. High-mid @(3kish) at any partial throttle the vacuum still adds advance. Put a load on it and it doesn't want to rev during that stage where vacuum would be adding to it so wot doesn't have the necessary rpm to take over completely. Or I guess to put it better, stomp on it and vac drops off, accelerate normally past 60 you'll still have vac. Though the lean condition from a torn diaphragm probably hurt more.

They are identical in fit. Only differences I can find SC has an inside vent S has only outside vents and one to the kickdown switch.cartersc.pdf SC has a bit more economical metering rod. Could probably swap it since the orifice is the same. carterS.pdf

I have no such issue with a 4" air cleaner. Stock rear so the engine is awfully busy at 60 (55 is a better cruise speed for it) but it will go faster no problem. I am running electronic ignition ,not points and the yf carb is a little better at higher speed but the BB didn't fall flat either. Just throwing darts here.... Is your vacuum advance known working? How about any possible vacuum leaks? I will say it ran as you describe when the vacuum actuator was bad ( torn diaphragm) causing a simultaneous leak and lack of advance.