DJK

I find that 6 degrees BTDC and 36-38 degrees of dwell work great on my 52 Cranbrook.

On Sun. June 19th there is an overnight stop in Binghamton,NY for the Great Race. Local car clubs are able to display their vehicles along Front street to get an up close view as the vehicles enter Binghamton, should be a great event. I had previously contacted someone on this forum that will be participating in the race, I have gone through my messages and am unable to identify the person, would like to connect with them at the event. My other concern is if they are in need of any repairs or replacement parts, I have a garage and some spare parts on hand.

Looking to replace the motor mounts on my 52 Cranbrook. Any suggestions on the best supplier with the proper rubber compound? Thanks.

You haven't mentioned if you removed the fuel line from the tank and blew into to clear the pick up screen. '

How about the pick screen in the tank?

It may be obvious to someone who has played with these old cars for decades, but not to someone that has only been at it a couple of years.

I failed to look in my manual for the wire diagram.

Thanks PA, I just went out and spliced into the flasher, works great. Guess I was over thinking it. My car has never utilized the t/s indicator on the speedo head, just the indicators on the switch itself. Thanks again.

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I found this @ ohms law calculator Current (I) = 7.5 ampere (A) Power (P) = 45 watt (W) Steps: I = V R = 6 volt .8 ohm = 7.5 ampere (A) P = V2 R = (6 volt)2 .8 ohm = 45 watt (W)

6251 is the bulb. This is way to complicated for my 68 yo brain. Thanks Sniper, you're the best.

This is how I arrived at 45 amps: bulb = .8 ohms divided by 6 volts = .14 6 volts divided by .14 = 43. Ohms Law- amp =volts divided by resistance. Thanks for the responses.

Looking for a source for 6 volt 45 amp diodes to operate the single green t/s indicator lite on my 52 Cranbrook.

I installed a grease fitting in the bottom of my steering box and pumped it full of John Deere corn head grease, no leaks, no binding.

Have you tried putting the silver strap under the copper one????

I eliminated my mechanical pump, ran the fuel line to a rubber hose/metal filter/rubber hose/carb.

First cruise in is this Fri., if all goes as planned, should have the Cranbrook ready. (being able to afford gas is another issue!!!)

The first time I did mine in the vehicle, I loosened the main caps to allow the crank to drop down slightly. The following year I completely rebuilt the engine on a stand, much easier. Had an 80 yo former mechanic assist me in the installation of the rope seal, still leaks slightly!!!

Speedi sleeve may be needed on the hub if surface is grooved, also be sure to center cover on hub before tightening down.

Or just don't get carried away with excess sealer on the end of the bolts.

Fram C134PL includes the upper seal.

With mine set at the proper clearance, the first road test resulted in a horrible burning smell and lots of smoke. Allowed to cool down, recheck clearance, road test again, been good for 3k miles.

Most "mechanic in a can cures" I believe are designed to swell neoprene seals. Why not remove the bolt and apply thread sealer?

I have come to the conclusion that it is a lot more fun to cruise with my Cranbrook than to sit at a car show, it's a driver, not a show car.