Sniper

Awesome work. Saved another one for the road. I wonder if a heim joint on that end would have netted enough clearance without the bend?

Problem is the documentation I have showing my ownership has the engine number which to quote CHS is not usable. "A serial number must be provided. We cannot research vehicles by body or engine numbers."

Usually there is a big copper disc inside the solenoid that makes contact when it's engaged. When it makes contact it hooks the battery to the starter motor. I've had luck cleaning them up and/or flipping them over for a fresh contact. I imagine a machine shop could make a new one if needed.

You don't tell use which Stromberg you have but look here https://carburetion.walkerproducts.com/stromberg/

they will accept registration with the VIN on it as well, in y case no help either.

Well, I am pooched. They want a copy of proof of ownership with the serial number of the vehicle. My title shows the engine number. They state they cannot search on engine or body numbers. Thing is the 51 has a VIN, but for whatever reason back in the day Texas used the engine number instead.

Where did you find a 6v single wire alternator?

You have 6v cables on a 12v system, not an issue other than overkill. Running 12v cables in a 6v system makes them undersized though, yet another hack the PO's mechanic did on my 51. As for alternator swaps, I prefer my Mopar to remain as much Mopar as I can.

Putting in Helicoils isn't brain surgery. A shop vac takes the broken off tang out of a blind hole pretty easily. Here's a good video of the process, I like how he mentioned turning the tap back a quarter turn to break and chips free during the tapping process. Too many people just chuck up the tap in a drill and have at it. Not a good ideal as you could break off the tap and then you'll be unhappy. One thing I do that he doesn't mention is clean to the hole with brake cleaner to get any cutting oil cleaned off before putting in the Helicoil. In a blind hole I will use the shop vac to suck out any chips while blasting it with the brake cleaner. Of course you do have to drill and tap the hole squarely but attention to detail should be sufficient especially since you are now aware that is an issue. If you want to fab up a jig or use a magnetic drill press to ensure it then that's fine too.

Both replies hit on possibilities, also, check for crud keeping the check needles from seating, especially since this is a the second set of different carbs doing this. You may have rust or other junk in the tank being pumped up to the carbs and fouling the seat the fuel shutoff needle seats on. Do you have a good fuel filter? Or is it the same one? It's possible that the filter is the source as well.

the key take away from my comment is "if done right". Anything can be crap if done poorly. there is a reason I do my own work whenever possible, even if I have to teach myself how first. I find that most aren't as attentive to detail as I am and I seriously hate hack jobs. My 51 must have had one of those coworkers you mentioned working on it. I have found many hacks on it and I am fixing them as I find them. From axle flange nuts finger tight with only the cotter pin keeping it from spinning off, to lower brake pivot bolts with a 1/4" gap between the nut and the backing plate, to a new wiring harness spliced into the old and a pushbutton start cobbled into where the cigar lighter should be. I'm not advocating replacing usable original threads, but if it's not usable I prefer to use an insert to keep the correct bolt in there rather than going with an oversized one necessitating a further mod to the pump to make it work.

Here's the form, couldn't figure out the link so I downloaded it and attached it here. Historical Build Record Order Form - New-1.pdf

A spent plenty of time putting helicoils in aluminum castings when I was in the service. Done right they are better than the original threads, even in cast iron. Not too sure how water tight they might be though. A timesert is an option though you will need to buy tools to install it properly. If you find the hole is too big for the right size helicoil or a timesert then you should consider a keensert. A link for you to consider https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/three-ways-to-fix-damaged-threads/

I recently tuned my BB and one of the things I did was move the pump shot from the rich position to the middle one. I live in west Texas and 100+ degree days are normal, lately it's been below freezing in the morning. She starts and runs just fine, though I wonder if I have a thermostat ad it never really gets the heater hot, just warm.

And that first song was

Did something similar to my 51, but it's a radio delete car. So I fabbed up some adapters out of oak to let me put a set of 5x7's in the rear shelf and I am using a Pyle marine BT amp to run them. It works decent but until I get new weatherstripping hi fidelity is not on the plate.

You might talk to A&A transmissions, they do a bit of that for the later cable shifted Torqueflites and might have some insight.

Excellent. make sure you check the entire range of motion for any interference, lock to lock and tire at full jounce, and full rebound.

When words are all you have it pays to use them properly. A backfire goes out the carb not the tail pipe. A misfire or afterfire goes out the exhaust. Two different issues with two different symptoms and two different solutions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Back-fire Years ago I had an afterfire issue on my 64 300, it was caused by a plug wire that came off the plug and the unburned fuel charge was being ignited in the exhaust causing a flame to shoot out one tail pipe and making a loud pop, almost like a gunshot. I was waiting on a friend to finish checking out of the base pass and decal office when I first heard it. From inside the car is sounded like a pftt. The gate guards were looking around for the gunfire, the office was right next to the main entrance. The friend was walking around the back of the car when it popped and he jumped. That's how I found out what that sound was. The link provided gives you some direction as to where to look depending on what it is you actually have.

OP's in Germany, probably don't have a Harbor Freight nearby.

Just remember that Hollander's will only list an interchange if it's a direct, no mods needs, interchange. For example, when I replaced the heater control switch in my 65 Cuda I used a later model switch that had the ability to turn the AC on/off in defrost but that required plugging one wire to a different spot on the switch. Not an interchange by Hollander's rules.

Not in my 55-58 parts book. Generally the lower the number the earlier it was introduced. That number is pretty low.

One of these drag link sleeves and a pair of tie rod ends on it will fix your issues.

I don't believe I said anything about the " "Battery" terminal of the voltage regulator ". I believe I said the output stud of the alternator is where I would source the 12V for the headlights if converting to relays. Make sure you use a fusible link or a fuse where ever you source your voltage.

Nice work