Sniper

Ordinarily they will tell you 60 psi is bad. But my 51 Cambridge has been like that for the 4 years i have owned and driven it,

Yes, I grew up near there in NW Indiana a couple of miles south of Lake Michigan. I was a paperboy when the blizzard of 78 rolled in, chest deep snow. Drifts to the peak of the house. There is a reason I moved. I have cousins in the area who like to give me grief when it's 110+ out here and I point them to their show shovels.

Why would it? That's exactly how the module works the coil. I would think that would be less stressful than cycling the 12v to the module like that diagram shows.

I have yet to master Gibberish, either authentic frontier or modern.

Nice work on the jig, the FSM have for my Plymouth does give those measurements as a double check, not sure if they are the same as a Desoto's but I imagine the Desoto manual would have those measurement too?

Not sure why you think that, a good running 230 will have around 21" of vacuum, sufficient for any booster. A check valve, usually it is built into the nipple on the booster itself.

And I am headed to Sierra Blanca for a job. Good thing I am not paying for the gasoline

My thought as well, if you have a heat gun or even a hair dryer you can use it to heat things up in the driveway and see what fails. I'd start with the coil pack. Maybe, depends on how close the PCV connection is and how oily it gets. Pull the PCV hose and see how oily it is to get an idea?

Let me preface the following statement with these caveats. My experience with Chrysler Minivans involves in 1989 Plymouth Voyager with a turbocharged four cylinder and a distributor. None of which is applicable to your situation. However it has been my experience that on engines that use coil packs like your V6 This Is How They function. The ASD relay supplies 12 volts it also supplies 12 volts to the fuel pump and if the ASD is shutting off your fuel pump shuts off you lose fuel pressure and you have a non running engine not a misfire. Although I suppose it is entirely possible that the ASD is shutting off and turning on that the fuel pressure does not have time to drop off noticeably. How the coil packs work is they all get 12 volts from the asd. That coil pack in your case consists of three coils inside the pack each with two towers it's called a wasted spark system so each cylinder gets spark twice once during the compression cycle when it ignites the mixture and the other during the exhaust cycle when it doesn't really matter. The computer switches the grounds to the individual coils. I don't know if this helps but it might give you a little clearer understanding on how your ignition system works

Tell you what I will mail you a radiator cap at my expense if you hook me up with a headlight for my Jaguar

12 volt coil? Best I can do, my 51's distributor

Man, I had wrong parts that are listed are right. With a passion.

Yep, we are almost continuously in a "drought" out here. Some time back I went to the NWS site and downloaded all the rainfall data they had for my hometown, about 100 years worth. I put it into excel and graphed it. Gee, there is about a 7 year cycle in rainfall amounts. Year one we get the most, then less the next year, even less in year three etc till the end of the cycle. But if you average the rain fall amounts we are "short" for many of those years. No, we aren't, it's the natural pattern out here. Drought is the wrong word for it, which is not to say we shouldn't conserve in leaner years. But hey drought sells, normal rainfall amounts do not. Now my data is very limited, I mean 100 years is nothing in the grand scheme of things, but it's what I had to look at.

I never prefill hydraulic tappets for just the reason you had. Glad to hear it's running, I hope the valve stem seals were your issue.

Well I detailed this exact swap on my 51 so do a search under my username disc brake swap I gave you the Good The Bad and The Ugly

I am reminded of what my Dad used to tell me, little boys who lie grow up to be weathermen

You have a point. I was checked the torque on the steering box mounting bolts on my 51 and they were loose

Don;t think anyone is new building these parts, which means you get NOS, if you can find them. Bernbaum's can usually help out, though I don;t know if he has housings anymore.

Not so, they aren't matched pairs, so to speak.

Ha, my son needs to build up his guns, mine can do the job lol.

You're going to have to clarify what you mean in regards to why your knuckles need to be replaced. Because something doesn't sound right to me.

Gee I'm thinking about putting p245 in the front to match the Rears

Yeah headlight designs have been proprietary since the '80s. But technology is gone overboard I don't need my headlights to steer. I did put LED headlights on my 51 but it didn't cost nearly as much as they want for the Jag ones. Heck it was less than one refurbished one

Well I put over 2,000 miles on the Jag in the first 2 months of this year. All I have to say is woohoo. I've got two issues to fix on it and then it's time for a tune. One issue is that my windshield washer fluid reservoir would go empty very fast within 3 days and me not even really using it. The other issue is I have a headlight fault on the left front headlight well I guess I'm redundant there saying front headlight lol. So last week, my son and I looked at it and we determined that I need to replace the left headlight, you'll note I did not say front headlight. Very spendy since it's LED. Even the junkyard ones are spendy and no guarantee there. I found a place that sold refurbished ones for about $350 but they're out of stock. So we manually adjusted the vertical setup so that it shines down the road properly but what doesn't work is the Adaptive part where the headlight turns the same direction as your steering wheel. I can live without that for now. The washer issue ended up being the headlight washer on the left side is broken so when you hit the squirters it's supposed to pop out and spray the headlights well what happens is fluid goes down that line you turn the pump off and it's siphons the fluid out of the reservoir until it's empty. So we pulled the line and capped it off with a bolt in a couple of zip ties for now. It's my first car with headlight washers so it's not like I need it. I'll end up seeing how much that's going to cost me for parts and then we'll replace it ourselves. I got a couple of other things I need to address some missing bolts nothing serious. Then it's time for some hot rod parts and pump it up to about 480 horsepower. Sad part is that will be cheaper than replacing the headlight. Assuming I have to buy a new one from Jaguar who seems to be the only people to have one in stock.

I have a pressure gauge hook to a hose that screws onto the Schrader valve on a fuel injection fuel rail. It's only about a foot long so I just use it under the hood to test pressure but if you can simulate the stalling in your driveway you could probably do something similar and watch the pressure gauge to see if your fuel pressure drops off when it stalls. It should not since the pump is electrically driven and not driven by the engine