chopt50wgn

Had used a phenolic spacer years ago when I had a pro street Dart. It did help with better atomization .Not sure about keeping the fuel from boiling as I did not have any problems before the spacer or after . I never liked the "wood" spacers cause I figured they would be too absorbent of the fuel.

I agree that getting it tig welded is going to be the way to go. Once the area is filled with aluminum, any machine shop can repair it.

Don..............I was thinking the same but don't know how. Would like to have the old name hooked up to new so I am not a "newbie"

Hey everyone...................have been using the sunsetdart name for years.So I decided since I have sold my pro street Dart 5 years ago, I should change my screen name to a more fitting name..............chopt50wgn.............suits me better I think.

Stainless steel is not a surface treatment. Stainless is a mix of different metals , don't know which ones, and is produced as such. There are different grades stainless as well. The best one is the one that never developes any rust. I have seen low grades of SS develop small amounts of surface rust. Yes you can sand SS and that's why you see polished SS on cars. The SS is sanded with various grades of grit going from rough,probably 500-600 to fine 2000-3000. Then after the sanding the polishing.

Opening the drain plugs on the block is a good way to drain the system. Sometimes when you open the petcock or remove a plug the hole can and sometimes be covered up with a rust layer. A screwdriver will break the rust and allow for drainage. Using the Prestone system is a backflush and really only does the heater core and radiator.

I have seen a few companies that make radiators for many makes and models. Since you want to stick with a stock copper/brass type, try Walker radiator or US radiator. If you change your mind and go aluminum, try Griffin, Afco, Ron Davis,. You can always paint the aluminum black to look stock as well.

Did you bench bleed the master before you put it on?

For every pound pressure on a radiator cap it will boost the boiling point by 3 degrees. Take a 15lb cap x 3= 45. Add 45 to 212(boiling point of water) = 257 boiling point. NASCAR,NHRA and many other sanctioning bodies in all forms of racing allow only water.

Have you tried Mcmaster-Carr?................they have tons of fasteners of all kinds.

Here in Pa that dumbass groundhog predicted an early spring. We are supposed to get snow on Sun nite into Mon here..............they indicted the groundhog and sentenced him to death.

If you use stainless you know that it will need a different flare than regular steel . It is also harder to bend without kinking as well. I helped a buddy do his 40 Ford in SS . It came our great but it does take more time and money.

Tim...........believe me I get these questions everyday from customers and I do the best I can to help them understand. I do understand your views and opinions so I am good with that. And like another member said........it's not for everyone.....and I'll let it go at that.

You have flammable and combustible mixed up. Evans, as is antifreeze is combustible which means that either in a misting situation and it must have a source of ignition to combust. and a hot header will not ignite it either. If you pour Evans or regular antifreeze on the ground and throw a lit match in it, it will go out. We have been around for over 25 years and have never had anyone who uses this coolant have any fires. The reason most sanctioning bodies ban the use of coolants whether it us or a 50/50 mix is clean up if it's spilled, not fire .

I hope I can shed some light here.............I work for Evans and have been there for over 10 yrs. Yes ,water is a better dissipator of heat....but water also boils at 212 degF and with a 15 lb cap it boosts boiling to 257 degF. One thing most do not understand is what the temp gauge is actually telling them. Most sensors for the temp gauge are located near the t-stat housing which is also near the outlet for the top hose to the radiator.........so as the coolant flows past the sensor it registers the temp back to the gauge. So what you are seeing on the gauge is the coolant temp at its hottest point and it is also leaving the motor. You are not gauging temps of coolant in the block. If the pump, fan and rad are doing there job, temps coming back into the bottom hose should be 15-20 deg cooler but you aren't gauging the coolant coming back only going out.I tell all my customers that if the gauge is reading a higher temp, which it can in some instances, that internally the motor is 30-40 degrees cooler but you are also not gauging that. I had it in my 600hp pro street car for 9 yrs and never had a problem When a motor with a 50/50 mix starts to run hot ,what is happening is the internal metal temps are turning the water into steam pockets. Those steam vapors cannot recodense fast enough back to a liquid to help pull heat away from the metal. Consequently the motor starts to build temp. Evans coolant stays a liquid and pulls more heat away from internal metals because it won't form steam vapors. It eliminates corrosion in the system along with no more electroylsis and it is a lifetime coolant. Evans coolant also does not generate pressure so stress is gone on the hoses , gaskets and seals. I had a customer call me and ask if he put our coolant in would his car run cooler...........I told him bluntly..no.........he said his hot rod has a blown/injected 1200 hp motor and runs 230 all the time. I went on to explain what I just did above here. He bought the coolant and put it in............one month later he called and said he proved my point of what I told him. He said he had the car out on a 90 deg day. Was just out cruising and the temp went to 230, no hotter, but also no cooler. he said he was not worried because our coolant can handle higher temps. But he did want to prove to himself what I told him about a cooler motor and not rely on what the gauge is reading. With the motor running and gauge reading 230 he got his digital heat gun out and started going over the block and heads..............he told me the readings were 180-195..gauge 230. I don't tell people to buy our coolant because its the best thing since sliced bread or that by putting ours in will bring your temps down to 180 sitting in traffic with the AC on on a 100 deg day because thats not how we work. But I do like to let people know HOW we work and to understand what you're seeing on the gauge and to understand the cooling system alittle better. We also are all hot rod people so we understand. I have had many customers call me with cooling problems asking if they use ours will it cure there overheating. I tell them no .............what I do is troubleshoot the system to help them bring the temps under control with the 50/50 mix. Then once they get the system under control, then give me a call. I could go on and on but I just had to chime in here so all here could get a better idea of what we do and how we work.

Eastwood sells a pinstripe remover wheel. It is similar to an eraser on a pencil. You attach it to a drill and just go lightly over the stripe and it removes it. If you use compound , you have to be very careful not to rub thru the paint underneath.

Have you tried Ron Francis? They have a harness called Bare Bonz.................it has everything . I am using this harness in my wagon. Check it out on his site.

I have a drawer full of receipts and am afraid to take them out and add them up. But everytime I open up the door to the shop, I smile when I see the wagon sitting there. I will say that I do have a wife who totally stands by what I spend on the car. She also knows that if a priority arises, which is anything that has to be done in the house, that any money earmarked for the car goes to the house. She has bought me things for the car and has done sewing for the interior for me as well. I am lucky to have a wife who likes car and who likes me to be happy.

There is a indoor show this coming weekend near me. It the Northeast Custom Car Show in Oaks,Pa. This is the 3rd year and I went to the last 2. The first year there were many very nice cars including the Ridler winner. There were lots of nice customs and hot rod of all kinds and was a good show. Last year all my car friend said the same thing I did..........was not that good. Last year was like going to any cruise nite with many cars I have seen on the road. I am going again this year and hope it is better or at least as good as the 1st year.

I removed the vent windows on my 50 Ply wagon. I also am having a split windshield put in with a seamed center with no divider. On the wagon, the new front driver/passenger windows have a piece of metal in the door that is integral to the structure and hinge. The guys doing the glass have had to notch the glass in the front mainly because of the top being chopped 4 inches. But it is coming out and should have the glass done this coming Thursday. The rear side glass is already in and is a smoked glass.

Every year I put the snowblower away around the 1st week of March. Then it will not snow anymore and spring is on the way. They predicted we were going to get 2-4 inchs and we got nothing. I should be a weatherman. As a matter of fact how would anyone here like to have a job where you can be wrong half the time and still make big bucks?.......lol

It may be as easy as spraying the nut with some PB Blaster, the new WD-40 rust buster stuff, or any of the products out ther. Spray the hell out of it for even a few days and then give it another try.

Take off the offending wheel and use a dial indicator to see if the axle flange is running out of round.

There are numerous ways to remove paint and everyone here has good ideas. But if you decide to go the soda blasteing which does work very well, most paint companies will not guarantee their paint over soda blasted metal. Soda blasting leaves a residue that is very hard to remove and if it is not removed, everything from primer to topcaots can be jeopardized.

Be careful when recessing the firewall. If you are going to use an aftermarket A/C-heater, make sure there is enough room to mount the new piece when the firewall is set back.