chopt50wgn

If the pics he sent me were of a pile of parts from a 50 Ply wagon ,I may have been in belief he was on the up and up. But these pics were of a perfectly restored car. I'm going with my gut here and agreeing that it's a scam.

This guy contacted me again on my personal email . He actually sent me pics of a car he was supposedly parting out.............get this..........these pics are of a perfectly restored 50 Ply wagon. Like he's parting that out................I thought I blocked him on my email. Guess I will have to try that all over again. I just deleted his email and if he gets hold of me again..................I will not hold back on some good ole whoop ass.

I also was contacted by this guy.................glad to know now it's a scam............will be aware again if am contacted.

I 've got 5/16 fuel line on my 360 powered wagon. Works great and am upgrading over the winter to the MSD Atomic FI and will still use 5/16 line.

I have to agree that having many vehicles just sitting around is a "sickness". I to have a few friends who have 3-4 cars just sitting or they are in stages of getting fixed. I look at it this way...........I pool my money allotted for my project.................use it to get my project to the next phase................save more money and continue until it is on the road. Unless one has very deep pockets and who does these days, it's hard enough to get one done let alone having 3-4 sitting in the wings...............oh, and the other thing...........I ain't getting any younger, at 63 now, these old bones don't like crawling in and under cars like they used to 20 yrs. ago. I do kid my buddies that have these collections...........I tell them they have OCD................old car disease................but I guess we all have that to some degree as well.

Just a few facts about t-stats.........................they open at the given temp they are rated for, like 160 or 180 but they are not full open until they hit 15 degrees above the opening temp. Example- a 160 opens at 160 but is not full open until it hits 175. A t-stat may open and close many times while driving which can give you varying readings on the gauge. It is due to a variety of factors. On a hot day it will probably be open more as the hotter temps along with hotter air hitting the radiator will keep it open. On a cooler day it may open and close due to air temps being cooler .

I have found and also used thru out my whole car fine threaded bolts. The bolts I replaced that hold on the calipers are fine thread and every bolt under the car are also fine thread. I also have nylock nuts where they can be used and dome shaped lock nuts where they are near heat. Most all motorcycles use fine threads as well due to vibration. Fine threaded nuts and bolts stay tighter and now I also make sure I use Loctite on everything. I do agree with Grdpa 50 and I am not a fan of lock washers either. I had a conversation with a well known fabricator and he told me he never uses them. He said they work well when you are working with wood but stick with Loctite and a good flat washer when putting together anything with metal.

Since the motor is building excess heat, the hood is acting like the top of an oven. The heat being generated has no where to go so the motor is absorbing more heat.

My buddies website is.................dwmotorsports.us

Any powder coating shop will bead blast most any part even it is just bare metal. The metal needs a "tooth" for the powder to bond properly. Bead blasting will not remove the chrome, just rough it up some so the powder will stick better. My buddy has a shop and has powdered lots of parts for my car and I have seen the "almost chrome" powder he uses. It does not look like chrome. It does look more like polished aluminum . He always preheats the parts, then applies the chrome powder, then when it is still hot, applies two more good coats of shiny clear powder.

Water is the best dissipater of heat ,but it will still boil at 212F. What happens inside the motor ,as the internal metal temps start building heat, it will turn the water to steam vapors. Those vapors can not remove any heat from the metal, so the motor will start to run hotter. Using an antifreeze does 2 things, it will help lube the pump and also slow down corrosion within the motor. Not sure what pressure cap you are using but for every pound the cap is it will boost the boiling point by 3 degF ...........example....a 15 lb cap will boost the boiling point of the system by 45 degF, so with water boiling at 212F add 45F and the new boiling point is 257.

I normally don't put something on a thread that shows my stupidity but I hope this will help everyone who works on any car or truck. I have my 50 wagon inspected and on the road. Am taking short trips working out all the little bugs. This has been a 6 yr. project and since the chassis is all new I don't want any problems. I take the wagon on my day off over to my job to show everyone. They have only seen pics and wanted to show it in person. I get there with no problems, spend about 20 minutes there and am off for a cruise. I am driving slowly thru a curvy section of road which empties out to a major highway. I am slowing down when I feel a big bump and the wheel pulls to the right. I hit the brake and it goes to the floor.......panic!!! There is a car about 100 ft ahead waiting to get onto the highway. I slowly push the E-brake down and I get the car stopped just as the other car merged onto the road out of my way. I stopped about 30 feet from the major road. Turned the motor off and get out to see what happened. The right front brake line is hanging with the fitting still attached to the line. I had it flat bedded back to my shop. Took off the front wheel and the caliper came off in my hand. One of the bolts came out of the caliper mount and when I hit the brake, it jumped up, grabbed the inner part of the wheel and literally tore the fitting right out of the caliper. It also ripped off one of the ears on the mount and the wheel ground down and bent the caliper. I have Wilwood disc all round and luckily can get the parts to fix. I didn't hit anything or anyone and the only thing hurt was my ego for forgetting to check every the nuts and bolts. I did a check on the other calipers and found they were just snug, not tight. They now have Blue Loctite on all the threads. Also did a check oh every nut and bolt on the chassis. Morale of this................ALWAYS TIGHTEN EVERY NUT & BOLT ON YOUR CAR !!!! I got very lucky and had this happened if I had merged onto the major highway and got up to speed, I shudder to think what could have happened.

I have used Hi Temp silicone in every gasket, seal and thread and have never had a leak. I put on a thin layer on both sides of the gasket. I never use Teflon tape on a motor.That's for house plumbing not motors. If a piece of the tape breaks off it can get stuck in the most inconvenient places.

Just had to chime in here and say................very cool wagon!!!......It will be a nice driver no matter how it's done over.

One thing to remember when purchasing an electric fan is static pressure drop once the fan is attached to the radiator. Some fan manufacturers will state the drop in their ads. Spal has the lowest drop of most all fans on the market. Have seen tests of fans rated at 3500 CFM and once attached to radiator the CFM rating dropped to 900. That's a 2600 CFM loss. Spal HP fans are rated in the area of 2750 and the drop is 400, so you have a legitimate 2350 CFM rating.

Here's the dash in my w50 wagon. I have a console where the radio and tach are as well.

Need to know where to put the VIN tag in my wagon.......thanks

I have a Fatman MS2 front end on my 50 Ply wagon. I just got the car up and running and it rides and steers like a new car. Tim is correct in saying the right coilover spring rate is the key to proper ride height and ride.

I have been doing all my own body work and painting for over 30 years. I mentored under a friend for 2 years before he would even allow me to pick up the paint gun. He stressed prep of metal and body work immensely. He always said that he could teach me to paint in 30 minutes but to prep the car correctly it would take another year or so. Prep work is 95% of the job. I did my wagon last fall in epoxy primer. The materials were over $600 and in labor another 30-40 hrs. of my time. Painting and bodywork is not out of your reach by no means, but like everyone has said here................it will take lots of time to learn what to do and then the expense of buying all the equipment to do the job.

There is a mat out there that has a dense type air bubble middle. It is foil backed on both sides and can be glued down or just laid to fit. The jute stuff works well but if it ever does get wet you have to remove it and let it dry out. The foil backed , you just wipe off and put back.

The Eastwood /Hushmat/ Dynamat stuff will stick to a smooth surface. You may get it to stick to a textured surface but it may not stick as well as a smoother surface.

I used the Eastwood mat as well. I will say this...........when you cut a piece to fit, make sure that's where you want it to go. The stuff is really sticky and where you put it, it's there. I also got some aluminum tape at Home Depot to seal the seams between the tape and then used a wallpaper roller to smooth it all out.

Besides the somewhat shoddy craftsmanship on these shows, many people think a vehicle can be transformed into a real nice car in a week. I have 2 friends who have fabrication shops and the work they do is top notch. But the problem I hear from my friend is the customer thinks a car can be built in a week with all the details. And they always bitch about how much money it costs. I told him to hang up this sign............Good work ain't cheap, and cheap work ain't good........which one do you want.

Here's a pic of the motor and the rear roll pan. The windows are smoked glass except for the front which is just a light tint. Motor is a lightly warmed over 360 with a 727 auto. It's hooked to a Heidts IRS and a Fatman MS2 front end. I have an MSD Atomic EFI to put on but am going to wait til I get some miles on the car with the carb. This was supposed to be done 2 yrs ago, but everyone in here knows what happens to the best laid plans. I also want to take this time to thank all who helped me find some parts and even sold me some to get this far. Everyone in here are always ready to help another Mopar nut........thanks

Well, it's finally wired and motor is running. Taking it to be 4 wheel aligned next week then driving it!!!