chopt50wgn

The flasher in the fuse box must be changed to a LED flasher. I have 12V's and they do make them for that system, but not sure if they have one for 6V. Check with companies like Ron Francis, Painless, American autowire and the like to see if they carry one.

Had Hagerty years ago on my pro street car. Never had a claim but watched my premium go up every year. Switched to Grundy, same agreed value, premium was half of Hagerty. Now with my wagon I have Grundy as well and premium is very reasonable .

If the bulbs you are changing to LED are also turn signal bulbs, you have to change the flasher to an LED flasher. The LEDs won't work with the OEM flasher.

Ah yes.........the time it takes to complete a small project is always more than you think. But the rewards are well worth it. Took me 6 years to get my suburban done and I still need to paint it, but being in primer is still fun cause I can drive it.

When I put my suburban tail gate back on, I got some sheet teflon and cut it out just a hair smaller than the hinges. Kinda like a gasket but very thin.So when I attached the top and bottom hinge, I didn't have the hinges crack the paint when you tighten them......just a helpful hint

Most aftermarket fans do make much more noise than say one out of a Taurus etc. I had a Spal fan in my old hot rod and one nite I came to a red light with some kids in the other lane and they asked if I had a blower under the hood . The fan was that loud. It cooled the motor but it was not that quiet.

I know everyone has thier likes and dislikes but where would the car culture be if there wasn't a Gene Winfield, or George Barris, or Bill Cushenberry. These guys are the old school customisers and I hope some of the young guys like chop, coming up still keep this art going.

I have been using the Marine Sta-Bil in my tank for years. I have also used the Lucas Oil Fuel Treatment. Both have worked very well due to the car sitting in the winter months. I do start it about once a week and have not had any problems with the ethanol fuel we all use nowadays. Both fuel treatments do help neutralize the problems that occur with the ethanol fuels.

Everyone comig to our place this year. Son coming in from California, first time seeing him in a year,plus the grandchildren. Life is short, so enjoy the most important around you................Family!!! Merry Christmas

I caught 2 possums in live traps this past fall. They lived under my small barn. I caught one and took it about 4 miles to the river. Next day took his or hers brother or sister the same place.

I live in Pottstown and have been to Pollacks. There are 2 other museums close by, one in Boyertown that is open most all the time and a very private one owned by Ross Meyers. It's call 3 dog garage and is only open to the public maybe 3-4 times a year. It is a working museum with very rare cars, lots of race cars like protoype Daytona and older Mustangs,Cougars, and lots of old school hot rods. There is also a Ridler winner that he had built by Troy Trapanier. When it is open usually on a Saturday, it is open from 9am-1pm. It is also in Boyertown. If you go to their website, you can email them for the next open house. I was told it will be after the first of the year .

If I am not mistaken, Eastwood makes a steering wheel repair kit.

Cory..............to do a good flush of the system, you should also drain the block. You want to look on either side of the motor. You should see a plug above where the oil pan bolts to the block. Get that plug out and flush all the old water/coolant. Once you get that done, there are back flushing kits out there. You can find them in any good parts place, NAPA, Advance auto etc. Then just follow the directions on how to hook it up. It's not rocket sceince and once you get that done , I would refill with any of the green/yellow antifreeze. I highly recommend staying away from any of the so called high mileage coolants like Dexcool, HOAT's etc. You also want to maybe use a good chemical flush when you back flush the system to help remove even more gunk and grime from the system. Prestone makes a good one which I have used in the past.

Moose is correct, you have to be a business or have a business get you a visitors pass. I was there in 2011 with the company I work for, Evans cooling. It is a bucket list place for any car guy. I was told that if you walked every aisle in every hall, it is 36 miles long. And that's not including the outside which is a big show in itself.

You're probably going to need some shims. They would go between the bolts that hold the hunges on. You can also use a paint stir stick to get proper gap around the door. Check out you tube, it should have some sort of door alignment.

Great job............reminds me of the old school 50's custom...................glad to see you doing it that way.

I wanted to pass on this info on how to figure out how many gallons a gas tank holds. You multiply length x width x height and divide that by 233.

I have always liked the American 200S wheels. I had them on my custom van back in the 70's. So when it came time to get wheels for my wagon, I knew just what I wanted to put on. They are 15x6 front and 15x10 rear. Some called them coke bottle or daisy wheels.

Did you have the manifold off? If you did the leak could be coming from the intake. They give you gaskets to seal the ends of the manifold but most everyone uses a nice bead of silicone instead of the gaskets. If it's not that, you can use a dye to run thru the system then using a blacklight the dye can be seen. But you have to have the motor running so you can flow the coolant.

I have always said when it comes to cars.................if you are building a car to sell and make money, you are building it for the wrong reason. I think most everyone here on this forum just purely enjoys working on their own car. It gives you a feeling of satisfaction when you complete one project and you know you did it right. You step back and say to yourself..........."good job".

I have a 50 wagon and I made this radiator to fit my radiator support. Not sure if the 55 has the same type support. I work for a cooling company so making this was not a big deal. I also don't know if you are looking at getting a stock replacement copper/brass or go to aluminum like I did.

I like keeping my mechanical skills up to par. Knowing when there's a problem and also knowing you can probably fix it keeps you happy. You know every nut and bolt on and under the car and when you do find and fix a problem, you have a good feeling of accomplishment. I like driving my car and I do go to shows and I go mainly to see my friends and be able to talk and exchange stories of the good old days. I am 64 and it is a special feeling when you can relate stories from days gone by when you used to cruise the town every Fri.and Sat. nite. My grandson is 12 yrs old and having him ask me about what I did when I was a teenager just floods my memories back and am more than happy to sit him down and tell him how thing were back in the good ole days.

I used it on all my chassis parts and frame in my 50 wagon. I even did the interior parts with it like dash and window trim. I used the satin finish and it looks great. Does it hold up like a 2 part epoxy.........I'd say no.............but.do you need it to? It is a good paint and I have had good luck with it every time I used it. If you are building an off road vehicle and don't want scratches, then I'd use an epoxy. If you are wanting a good and basically strong bonding paint that looks good, then I would use Eastwoods. It says you can spray directly over bare metal. I never do that and I always put a primer down first then use the black.

The t-stat allows the motor to build to the temperature of the given temp setting in the t-stat. So if you are running a 160, then when the motor gets to 160 it will start to open. All t-stats will open at said given temps, but they are not full open until 15 above the given temp.......example.a 160 is not full open til it hits 175 . Also a motor needs to have heat in it to burn off any moisture in the oil and when running a 50/50 mix the pressure helps keep gaskets and seals tight.

Don...............the laser temp gun didn't work cause the aluminum is too shiny. If you put something on the radiator to cut the shiny ,it should give you a reading..