55 Fargo

Thanx for this post, not to sidetrack this thread,, but all too often, the go and "search" is pontificated by a few members. Searching as you mention at times produces very good info, and sometimes it does not. The new format displays a ? mark, is this not a question??????????? worthy of an answer if possible..............

Try Ads, Adds 1+1=2....LOL

Any Canadian 3 spd trans and clutch housing will work with this set-up. You will need to move the clutch cross member forward to accommodate for the shorter housing as compared with the fluid drive housing. The other item to be addressed is the clutch throw out bearing push rod needs to be shorter, and that's about it. Contact timkingsbury on this forum, he is from near Milton Ontario, and maybe able to set you up with the correct parts for this swap.

Where are the pics of the car, the award and your 7 days of work??

steel rod make a hook on 1 end, end use a slide hammer to knock it out. Is it a brass tube, which engine is this?

Good Luck on the Fargo Tail gate, they can be a challenge to find. Try this guy, moparmansteve@gmail.com, he is located near Winnipeg Manitoba. or this guy too kevin@higgelec.com, he is 3 hours west of Winnipeg

That sounds quieter from here ....LOL It certainly will make a difference, and plan on doing more to my truck too. Years ago, had a 64 Chevy truck, and put carpet on the floor, and could not believe how much quieter it was...

Well on mine, could use new door rubber, and more sound deadener. At some point want to take apart all the leaf springs, and remove a spring from each "pak", as well as make sure all pivots,hangers, shackles are good too. These are trucks, ride like trucks, and do not expect them to ride and sound like even the cars of the same period, but making improvements never hurt anything...

And Graham Page with stock engine, note the alternator is driven by the water pump..

Pics of the 32 Chrysler, complete with Bias ply tires, and it road and handled well. The Graham Page Roadster, with a Chrysler 250 and T5 trans

hey all, had my old Fargo out yesterday, was quite windy and warm, so windows down, vent open. Now these trucks seem to have the aerodynamics of a barn door, y truck is partially insulated and sound deadened with "poor mans" dynamat, carpet on the floor, door panels. She is still a noisy old beast, driving into the wind at 65 mph, gotta do some more work on her to quiet things down more. I also had a ride in a Chrysler car last night, it had the headliner and panels, but floor only mats, it was so much quieter and a softer ride, but it's a car. My truck handles and steers well, and is not having too much driveline noise but do have a 6 blade fan. I would need to do some suspension softening and more sound control, before I ever ventured out on a long trip, but she is a Truck....LOL

Yes later today, including the Graham Page roadster project with a 1950 250 engine and T5 trans..

Hey all, had the pleasure of getting together with George and the 32 Chrysler, super nice car and super nice owner. The car is powered with a 250, rebuilt in 1989, has now 150000 miles, T5 trans and 3.73 rearend. This car cruised effortlessly at 70 mph and smooth, at one point slowed down to 30 mph in 5th gear, but he just put the pedal to the metal and back to 60 mph in no time flat. I have more to share and the pics a little later today.

The US built trucks with the shorter 218/230 engines and the front sump pans fitting on the longer engine? You will of course need as mentioned, a 25 inch truck oil pan, easy in Canada, as all were 25 inch engines, the pick up assembly, and swap, not difficult. or do as others have suggested, bigger bump stops, I would lean toward a truck oil pan. You can get 1 from Canada no problem, or off the big trucks in the USA.. Check with Tim Kingsbury or George Asche in Fertigs Pa, PM Tim on this website, if you want, he can hook you up possibly.

Oh okay, didn't think you were trying to start something, thought perhaps you knew about the build, the internals, crank mods bearing mods etc. Not sure where the 200 hp ans 6000 redline came from, but the engine was hardly revved up in the 2 vids i watched..

Really what makes you say this?

My Fargo, runs just fine on Manitoba Regular gas supposedly 10% ethanol, but usually buy Premium, for the no ethanol content. My engine does not ping, so my timing must not be too far advanced, so far no issues with fuel quality in this area. If your engine is detonating a lot, should you not retard the timing a bit?

Tim and George and the Boys, so very sad to hear this news, and my prayers and thoughts will be with the Asche family. George knows that his beloved June, is perfectly fine in the next world, but as stated this will be a life changing event. My parents are quite elderly, and with that issues too. My mother is very sharp and with it, but her mobility is impaired as a result of a stroke a dozen years ago. Glad to hear the family and community, put on a nice send off luncheon, and hope George is doing well too......

BTW, post any old pics, of the cars ,engines and drag strips if you have any? That really adds to a thread like this. I just finished adding dual carbs and exhaust to my engine, but could see it being more lively with a shaved head and hotter cam. I have owned a few Chevy 216 engines, and a few 235s and 1 292, that 292 had lots of grunt...

Hi Brian, thanx for reviving my old thread, very cool post,

Manual or not, would keep an eye out for any issues........ Having said this, do not think oil pressure is the issue with his engine temps... Maybe there is no issue, just the temp this engine wants to run at, and if it's not boiling over and running well, maybe not a big deal, for me, I could see this happening in a Tim Hortons drive through, but a parade, not for this cowboy...

I dunno, you will need to check out this water pump and confirm or eliminate it. Idling, the rad should be hotter on top and cooler as it passes back into the engine, otherwise you know what happens, it gets hotter and hotter and boiled right over...

Usually means new pistons,rings valves, bearings, oil pump gaskets machining etc. The 1951 has an internal by pass water pump, with the tstat housing and no short hose from the tstat to waterpump. The external water pump by pass, is just that, water bypasses externally, instead of internally. 3/4 mark while driving, is what about 180 to 190 degrees, what did the new gauge indicate while driving at speed?

Do not see a problem with 10W30 on a rebuilt engine in good condition, have run it no problem in my engine, and never went below 30 psi at an idle. 0 psi at idle when hot indicates an issue with bearing clearance, oil pump issues, something is up with this?I know that at 500 rpm you only need to see 10 psi of oil pressure, but these engines when fresh run 30-40 psi at idle when hot...PS that kinda oil pressure on an old 216 stovebolt is normal, not n a Chrysler flathead 6....

When this engine was rebuilt, was the water distribution tube replaced, and/or pulled and cleaned if brass? The 160 t/stat idea is fine, but when the stat is fully open at about 180, it can still climb. Now low speed driving and idling can be a radiator fan issue too. If this engine has clean water passages and the tube is clean and distributing water as it should, that part is good. A good fan, water pump in good working order, rad efficient and clean, at an ambient temp of 80, you would see the engine getting good and warm idling for a long time, but again, do think it should be closer to 180 or so under those circumstances. What temp was it running after the parade, once you were driving up to speed?