55 Fargo

Yes it certainly is not a hotspot, especially the northeast corner of the state, near Glascow. I was thinking around the Hot Springs area might be a lot more moderate and it certainly is compared to other parts of the state.. I have never seen temps anywhere near -65, even in my area of Manitoba. I have experienced -40 or so with a windchill of -52, and even that is not an every winter thing. Plenty of -40 to -45 with a windchill and -35 for the air temp itself. I was referring also more to the west coast climate as compared to Montana or Manitoba. Indiana, cold winters, but nothing like Montana North Dakota or Manitoba...

Some on here are so full of "hot air" and "gas" there speed needs to be measured with a shovel and gas leak detector.......

Block heaters make a big difference, as well as thin oil for the severe cold weather. Good battery, and cables and an engine in good tune, compression fuel and spark and you got fire... You guys don't have cold like this place, -30 to -40 overnight lows every winter. A modern vehicle without a block heater would be dicey in our climate conditions a lot of the times. Synthetic oil a good battery really help with extreme cold. The OP is eluding to cool weather I would guess, not winter snow and ice cold conditions, but I could be wrong.....

Mine can cruise 65-70 mph easily, have not been above 70 or so, could see it hit 80 mph, as I have 3.23 gears... PS it and I prefer 60 mph most of the time, this truck steers and rides just fine at that speed and even above. I have stock brakes up front and modern drums on the back, stops fine...

How cold is it getting? Maybe your battery and cables aren't up to snuff? A well charged 6 volt battery and decent 2/0 cables with good clean connections. 8 volt coil, well how are you going to go 8 volts from a 6 volt system? Gm 1 wire alts can be bought for 6 vlt pos grnd, if you are having an issue with the genny and regulator on yours. How about a block heater or magnetic oil pan heater, would that help?

Nice Old Truck

The T5 or TK trans is not you only option, as a matter of fact, you need to be aware of the gear spreads and ratio for T5s, as some are geared so low, that 1st is useless, with certain differential gear ratio choices. Or get the parts for your trans, not much to these for rebuild. Possibly a donor trans may be out there too. The Chrysler A833 overdrive, 1975-86 in everything from Volares/Aspens, vans and trucks. Easy to install, with a simple adapter plate, again with other modern trans, an ebrake has to be upgraded to the rear brakes, via a diff swap. All depends on what you want and for your intended use. There are options, besides a T5 conversion. Whichever route you choose, be aware of the gear spread and all of what is needed to make it work.....Good Luck$ Try this trans supplier, for parts and info, https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual

Yes forgot about pos grnd, tried a GPS a few years back in my 47 Chrysler, fired the fuse in the gps unit. This could be an issue with a USB type socket charger, unless the polarity is reversed and really, and with an 8 volt battery set-up, do not see why not, as he does not have a Mopar 6 volt tube radio, which is the most sensitive of all....

My biggest concern is your oil pressure does drop to 10 psi, this is when hot and idling slow I understand. If you have a lot of clearance, then perhaps a complete overhaul could be justified. If all is well except the valves and/or rings, then you may be able to do a ring and valve job n car and call t good. Do the diagnostics and report back, both wet and dry compression tests and a cylinder leak down test.....Good Luck

Let us know what you discover....

Well if a complete rebuild is in order than thats what should be done, but not just replacing bearing inserts. New valves, pistons/rings, new guides, new cam bearing timing chain all new bearing, possibly the crank needs regrinding and on and on. The OP is asking about a valve grind and maybe a set of rings, infact he has not completed a diagnosis to determine what he exactly needs yet. It sounds like he wants to freshen this engine up, while it is in the car, then get more use, which if the car is driven sparingly could last a long time. As Lou Earle once put it, do you know how much oil you can buy for the price of an engine rebuild. Many ring and valve jobs were done, and most likely got a lot more miles on an engine because of it.

Well yes they will power up, and draw double the amperage than the same motor would on 6 volts, lots of heat develops and things fry including the wire leads. A 6 volt starter motor will live on a 12 volt diet, as it is operated for a brief period of time, again wire leads should be beefy to handle the current load and heat...

Why, cell phoned typically charge at 5volts

Where did you read or hear that. Of course the best course of action is to measure the cyls and journals for wear, replace timing chain and gears all new guides valves, pistons and rings. But if the engine is in need of a valve grind and maybe just rings, you could get a lot more miles and time out the engine, for a lot less money.... BTW what valve seals, that's for a Chevy stovebolt 6s which is an overhead valve engine with valve guide seals

Why couldn't you do a ring and valve job, if all is well. For the amount of miles you will put on it, this could very well work out. Do a wet and dry compression test, and a cylinder leak down test, and discover exactly what the problem is. Perhaps a valve job will be all that's needed for another 30-50k miles.

Contact Tim Kingsbury AoK Racing, he and George Asche are the 2 you want to go to, to find out what is needed to make power with these engines. From Mild to Wild, a lot of the builds are not intended for "street use", but they are the authority on this topic.....

kool and welcome, purists whats that, maybe on the AACA site. This is the type of engine you need to go racing, My truck, ain't pure at all, since this vid was shot finished up painting in the cab.

Availability , someone added this at some point. The Chrysler plant in Windsor Ontario, used both, don't think so though. These are Canadian built cars? 25 inch engine on first car, most likely a 218 and 3 spd trans, 3.90 rear end. easy to drop in a 250/265 with R10 overdrive, no ball and trunion ujoints either, very common cross and roller type...

Have you contacted the rebuilder??? Like wouldn't that be your first bridge to cross? Give them a call, and tell em what happened, if he is reputable, they will do something about it...

Jon, it appears you have installed and adjusted your brakes as per spec, what is the problem currently? You have other posters digging up your past dealing with the same issues, did you not resolve this at that time? Do you have decent brakes, or are you now displaying uneven brake shoe wear after several years? Please enlighten us with what is going on , before others blow a head gasket....LOL

Only 1 way to find out ....LOL they seem evenly matched, that VW engine can most likely rev a bit higher, it is rated at 0-100kmh or 62 mph in 26 seconds

Well yes, which Guide? NADA over inflated, these are prices in USD correct? I would think this is a #2 truck, once cleaned up, a #1 should be flawless, this truck is not that specimen most likely. So 10-15 k might be on the money for this truck. Auctions can drive up prices to the max....

Ya no kidding, flip that for profit, not likely for some time. I do not think the truck was worth 25 grand, just my opinion, and would not pay that much even if it look like it rolled off the assembly line. I would say 10-15 k, range, not 25k Yes the year and model, sentimental reasons love for that model etc, it wasn't even a short box with a V8. I will give praise where it's due, this truck was in very nice survivor condition, that is a for sure.

I was referring to the GM truck, the 67 Dodge, but it ain't a Fargo either, nice truck though, again a bit pricey IMO, but opinions are like "A s" everyone has one....

For an S15 without a T5, think they might be some buyers remorse...............LMAO