55 Fargo

Yes you can still use the ammeter, whoever told you that is uninformed. But if you happen to use a 90 amp alt, it may peg the ammeter when pushing the juice. Seriously I have a alter 50 amp I think hooked up to my 60 amp ammeter, works great. Now having a voltage gauge is not a bad idea as an addition too. The GM 3 wire 10SI is where a light comes in, so maybe best to avoid that alt, go with the 10SI 1 wire, or a Mopar alt and regulator, of course the latter requires 12 volts, the GM 1 wire can be bough online for 6 volt pos grnd.....good luck

Doing a complete diff swap is not overly difficult, and you get modern brakes to boot. Doing a 3rd member swap is easy IMHO, but you gotta be able to pull the drums, backing plates axles to do the job. T5 trans swap, all depends on what you want, some of the gear ratios aren't that desirable, with say a 3.90 or 4.11, 1st gear on the older NWC s is so low you will be starting in 2nd. This conversion is of course more involved as mentioned. The Chrysler A833 swap, with a simple adapter plate would be easier, but again, this trans has no ebrake drum, like a T5, so something needs to be fabbed, or you need a modern rearend anyway.The gear spread is nice though.

Pressure bleed, and follow the correct sequence, are you using Dot5, it is sometimes harder to get the air out, but it's well worth the effort, for any car that sits for long periods at a time. I have had no brake fade, but have no hills here, hills, freeways, lots of heat, brake fade could happen on any drum style brakes much easier than disc. Your car is a what SBC 350/350, do the front brakes in modern disc, heck put the MC on the firewall too, whats the difference now that it is basically rodded anyway. If I went modern V8, I would not bother with the undefloor MC ever again.....

Dale, on my 47 Chrysler, with OEM dual wheel cyl 11 inch brakes, I could easily put you into the front windshield,on a stomp on the brake pedal. Yes disc are more modern, yes they deal with heat better, but make no mistake, Lockheed dual wheel cyl front brakes, properly adjusted and in good order, are very decent responsive brakes. Trouble is, so many are not working or adjusted or setup correctly, having a front disc brake conversion is not a must, but a want, the OEM brakes work very well when in good order... 1 disclaimer, having modern V8s and a lot more speed and HP, may justify a disc brake upgrade, as well as a lot of other upgrades..

So, exactly how fast were you going? Was't this nerve wracking on the freeway? But thumbs up to you Bro....

Reg, I have always found this interesting, your truck, with a 250 engine(most likely115-120hp), has no issues with a 3.0 gear diff. This is great, and you have hills and traffic, so not like you are just putsing down a level old time highway on Sunday lookin for the ice cream stand. Yur truck is lighter than jeffs for sure and any 3/4 ton variety, with the 250 engine, versus a 218, well the old saying "no replacement for displacement", rings true. My truck older unrebuilt 228, but has duals intake/carbs and tru dual exhaust, with 3.23 gears. My new add-ons, make a big difference in getting my truck going, she is also a 108 inch WB lightest of the truck models, and I am happy about that fact. Jeffs engine, while it runs nice, and has good compression, has not been rebuilt, and most likely has miles, these engines have a lot more juice once rebuilt, with a shaved head to raise compression. Its a fact that these engines develop torque at a fairly low rpm, with stock cam specs, but the powerband is a higher rpm IMHO, not at 1600, but comes alive at 2500-3000 rpm.....

All good info here, with those who have done this and been there. Someone I know is running a 32 Chrysler with the big tall bias ply tires, 3.90 gears and a T5, this works very well with his 250 engine. My truck has a 3.23 rear gears, in high winds and long hills you feel it, a 5th or 4th overdrive would not work well. These engines seem to like to do the grunt work from 2500-3000 RPM, now going below 2000 up hill or ion strong wind seems to zap the powerband, regardless of the fact the torque max starts at 1600-1800 rpm.

Post any on topic related question you choose. There is plenty archived, but new questions and more info is fine too. Every thread on here most likely has been asked or discussed in some form or another in the past. If everyone just used the search and never started threads, this would be a very boring go no where website. The mentioned car is no longer being driven, needs repairs to be safe and roadworthy, and might be sold too, don't think that owner has disc brakes anymore, but not sure. Use whatever supplier(s) you choose, nobody has a monopoly on upgrades for our needs...

Good idea, thanx

Do you really think you would convert back to Lockheed dual wheel cyl drum front brakes after disc? Most likely not, unless your car is going to be a Concourse or Plymouth club resto. So don't worry too much about ging back to stock, the new disc will confirm this on your first drive....

I know a gent with a 32 Chrysler 250 with well over a 100 k since he rebuilt it, 3.90 diff, T5 trans, 70 mph all day long, drove to BC on our west coast, Rockies. He then hauled back a 2500 lb camper with it, no problem. This is not just him talkin, I have driven in in this car, it moves nicely. Yes your truck is heavier, your engine has miles, with a fresh 250, the 3.55s might be fine, but 3.73 would be better as Mr Flaming has posted, his truck is quite a bit lighter than yours too.

Yes I also am running P 235 75 15 tires, could certainly use smaller tires, but on a truck it don't look right. I find my power band picks up at 2000 rpm, not where max torque begins at around 1600 rpm. So with 3.23 gears, and when I shift into 4th at say 35-40 mph, my rpm is only at about 1600 rpm, but in 3rd much higher wanting a gear change. With 3.23 diff gears, those older lower geared T5 trans gear spreads, might work. My engine has miles, so with say a fresh 250/265, 3.23 gears would be okay, but 3.55 better...

HUH, man its damn near winter here, and this job ain't too big, but a bit of a pain. I ain't pullin off sheet metal this go round, if I get at it, will paint inside the cab, the door jambs and the insides of the doors, it's inside the cab, not under it or the box that's not the issue right now. When the time comes, off comes the box, and front tin, for a complete and thorough job, but hey thanx for the reminder....LOL. Nothin I undertake goes on for "months", too obsessed to complete it.....LOL I don't need another truck, have my van, my Hemi Ram, and trailers to haul anything around, heck I don't haul with the Fargo anymore, it's all pleasure.

Okay been a lot of trans questions and differential gearing questions, engine RPM reline limits etc lately. A lot of the newer members, usually younger and most never experienced a low geared truck, let alone a engine driven rad fan. So tell us, what is your Diff gear choices and why, this can include transmissions, whether stock, or some more modern Overdrive types. Geographic locations, local traffic and speed considerations, as well as terrain types. I currently am running 3.23 rear gears and a T 98 acme 4spd trans, this with a 228 long block, dual carbs/exhaust. This current ratio, is a little tall in 4th gear, at 40 mph, which around 1800 rpm, she is a bit sluggish, once I hit 50 mph she spins up a lot better, doing 70 mph, she is not running all that hard at about 2800 rpm. I see an optimal cruise RPM at 2500-2800 rpm, yes 3000 should be no problem, but 3400-3600 on a continuous, gets busy and is running these engine hard. I am hoping to go back to a 3.73, or even 3.90, and do intend to adopt a A 833 trans for this.....

Easy as pie, use a Mopar alt, with the regulator, for 12 volt only, or a GM 10SI 1 wire for 6 volt +- or 12 volts, and a GM 10SI 3 wire can be used too. Fab or Epay brackets to use on the OEM bracket, unlikely you will go back to a genny after this though...... I can post some pics of mine tomorrow for you.....

Well I had the frame for this truck first, think I would have cleaned and painted it.........LOL I built this truck from parts from at least 3 or 4 trucks, it's Dodge/Fargo, 52/55/56

Hey all, although this is not a question, feel free to throw in your expert advice or 2 cents. I could have posted this on the truck board, but am posting this here, as it applies generically to cars or trucks, and I started on this "car side" many years ago. Okay so here is what not to do, with my Fargo truck, when I slapped her together, (she was originally intended to be a rough errands/parts hauler), had to sell my beloved 47 Chrysler Royal, so this truck is my 1 and only. I did minimal prep, filler, blocking etc, shot on hardened enamel paint. The metal work and welding was done well, but as mentioned above, was supposed to be a "rough truck". So now, I have an interior of my truck, that needs to be prepped and painted, including the inside of the doors, roof, dash etc, right now it's multi colored. I will never do something like this again, lesson learned, this should have been prepped and painted right along with the rest of the body. So I now have a choice, pull everything out, prep and paint, or drive as is, and paint it when the rest of the truck gets the "real paint" later, maybe in retirement. I am making a choice, very soon and if I decide to prep and paint will get at it, this of course will now involve a lot of masking and tarping of the rest of the truck....

Here are pics of the slant 6 distributor conversion. This is a very starightforward deal, not overly complicated, but use resistor type wires and plugs, no solid core wires. You can also use a GM HEI with it too if you choose. Most guys like this, but most guys on here have not done this first hand either, I have, and it is nice easy project.

Hey Tod, 6 of 1, 1/2 dozen of another, I am sure it will grow on me. I did not like the look of 46-48 Chryslers, when I first bought the 47, but I sure loved it's look after a while........... The site owner GTK, does not need my blessing on this new format, sure it has some very progressive features, above and beyond the latter..........

I still like the other site format better, and some other web forum formats. But whoever likes it great fill your boots. So far do not care for it as much, but time will tell, once I am used to it. I do not care for all the big, bold colors, but it sure is better than Hotrooders.com, black background hard to see. I have no issues using any of it's feature, just a preference, not my website, not my money, so not my say.....

I prefer the previous format, and I have no difficulty navigating this new update. Pic file uploading is better with this new update. But hey it ain't my "Website", and it ain't my "money"

yes it sure can be 12 volt - or 6 volt + or _. You can either buy this alternator built for your needs, or do it yourself with the kits. I am currently using a 12 volt 10SI 12 volt alt, no problems at all so far in 4 years. The starter, the 6 volt can be used on 12, but there are pitfalls, long cranking should be avoided. 1956 and later 12 volt starter it will have a green tag, am not 100% sure if the ring gear is the absolute same as the earlier 6 volt, but think it is. 6 volt is fine, I much prefer 12 volts, regardless of any opinions on here, and I have had both. If you go to 12 volt, you could get a mopar alt and regulator too. Nevermind what any negative types tell you, investigate and make your own decisions, if you stay with a 6 volt, that'll be fine too...

Another way to electronic ignition is with a Mopar /6 distributor conversion. Not that difficult, you can use it in conjunction with a GM HEI, if you don't like the Mopar style module. It takes a bit of effort, but is certainly not that difficult....

Yes I read this, and posted on that HAMB thread too Greg. The OP is a guy who has all the answers, so not sure what he is getting at. Tim Kingsbury, has a lot of info and stats for theses engines the heads, the cam profiles etc. This same guy has been on this forum, but did not hang around , he did not see eye to eye with a few members, no big surprise there.

Exactly, ask me ow I know this......LOL