55 Fargo

Hey 38, your engine puked out some coolant, how much did you need replace? Up to 200 for a short time is not too bad, especially pulling uphill, after you added water did your rad go down again? Did you recently refill your cooling system, if so, it will puke out some coolant sometime till it finds it's own level. In your part of NY state, what is the ambient temp these days, running at 175 to 190 on the higway on a hot summer day is not so bad, keep an eye on things, carry a gallon or 2 of premixed antifreeze, just in case. Go through the search thread for overheating, read all about how to properly clean your coolong system, if you have not done so. Also in the mean time, check your timing, make sure it is correct, this can heat up an engine at highway speed. Doing 60 to 65 mph o hot day, wit a flattie and maybe 4.10 gears will definately warm her up. Let us know what happens......Good Luck sp if you have an original non-pressure rad, you have an overflow on the top of the rad, this allows hot coolant to flow out down the side of the rad

Pat there is one of these about 10 minutes from my place too.......Fred

My 47 Chrysler has a 218 D40 Canadian Engine, I also own a C38S engine, which is the correct engine for my car, it has full flow oil filtration, but needs a rebuild.

These were truly great engines, I have 4 of them, 2 that run a 218, 228, 251, and hopefully a 265, which is out of a Massey combine. The combine one still looks good, paint is still on engine, although faded. I do have a concern of how many hours are actually many hours may be on it. Wonder how many hours the average combine ran each harvest season, and how many rpms, were required to run the combine, how hot they would get, and how much wear can be expected on the engine if it were used 2 weeks for 12 hours a day...........Fred PS Hemmings Classic Car magazine ran an article on the 20 best engines of all time, The Chrysler Lhead 6 was not included, they included the 318, the 225 Slant 6, they wrote that the 225 Slant 6 rpelced the inadequate L head 6, the slant 6 is great, but so is the flathead, why else would it have been used in all of these other applications, in Canada they were manufactured until 1972, used in so many industrial applications, how many other gasoline engines can claim a service record from the 1930s until 1972...........Fred

I don't see why not, it will not fit on the Dodge D25, which is really a P15 with Dodge badges, but that is a Canadian thing. The D24 should be much like the C38 Chryslers, the hood, front fenders, rear fenders were all the same regardless if the car was a Seedan, Club Coupe, Businessmans Coupe, Convertable, all the same, the doors, trunk lids, and rear windows were all specific to each type.............Fred

No, the Chrysler hood, is the same for all C38 models, ie Coupe, sedans,. It is a one piece hood that opens from the front of the car, it also has a hood release cable to enable you to open the hood from inside of the car. So the answer is no Phil, these hoods do not interchange, the Chrysler hood is also longer than the D24 Dodges and much longer than the P15 Plymouth hoods..........Fred

Canadian engines do not have this crank flange difference according to my sources, but who knows, stranger things have happend. All Canadian blocks are the same size, design etc, they are the 25 1/4 inch blocks, they had different bores and strokes, to create the 218,230,251,265, but the block was all the same, so you can make a 265 out of the 218 block, by boring and then using the 265 crank and rods, what a versatile engine. The industrial engines, also had hardened cylinders, so I have read on another forum..................Thanx Fred

Was just playing with my 251 ci it has a 3 C38S, which is out of a 1946 to 1948 Chrysler Royal. I has full oil filtration. The valve chambers had some dirt in there but no sludge, the cylinders are not scored, the head is off, there is no cylinder ridge at all. The number stamped into the top of the piston are #1613996, no other stamp to indicate .020, .040, 0.60, so I am going to assume these are stock pistons, the bore is 3 7/16. The water tube is rusted in badly, water passages pretty rused up, hope the block isn't cracked. This maybe my best candiate for rebuld, as it appears to have minimal cyl wear, and full oil filtration, and is alo the right 3 of engine for my 47 Chrysler...............Fred

On the subject of Canadian engines. Chrysler of Canada began making their own engines in about 1938. But they made only one engine, the 25 1/4 inch long block used in the US in Chryslers and DeSotos only. In the US they made a shorter, 23 inch long engine for the Dodge and Plymouth. The big engine in the US, had a 3 7/16" bore. In Canada, they made the 3 7/16" bore model for the Chrysler and DeSoto but they also made a 3 3/8" bore model for Dodge and Plymouth.This was the same block with smaller bore and smaller pistons. By juggling the bore and stroke, they made a range of engines to match what the US was making. For example, the Canadian Plymouth used a 218 cu in engine from 1942 to 1954. It had a bore and stroke of 3 3/8 by 4 1/16. The American Plymouth also had a 218 cu in engine but it had a bore and stroke of 3 1/4 by 4 3/8. The biggest version of this engine was the 3 7/16 by 4 3/4, 265 cu in used in 1952-54 Chrysler Windsor, DeSoto, Crown Marine to 1972, Dodge heavy trucks to 1961 and many industrial engines. There were crankshafts made with 4 1/16, 4 1/4, 4 1/2, and 4 3/4 stroke. With the 3 7/16 bore these gave 225, 237, 251 and 265 cu in. All these were made at one time or another, the 3 7/16X4 1/16 for an industrial engine, the others for DeSoto and Chrysler cars and large Dodge trucks. By large I mean big dump trucks, buses etc not pickup trucks. There was one exception to the rule of 3 3/8 bore Dodge and Plymouth, 3 7/16 DeSoto and Chrysler I know of. 1940 and 41 Chryslers used a 241 cu in engine combining the small 3 3/8 bore and the 4 1/2 stroke in the long block. The 3 3/8 bore engine was used with the 4 1/16 crank for the 218 Plymouth and Dodge engine, and with the 4 1/4 stroke crank for the Dodge 228. Either engine will interchange with the other. My 1951 DeSoto has a 1953 Dodge pickup engine in it right now. If you wanted you could turn your 218 engine into a 265 by boring it 1/16 and installing the 4 3/4 crankshaft and rods. The blocks are the same, and a 1/16 bore is a piece of cake. They were made to take an overbore of at least 1/8" as part of the normal rebuilds they might need during a normal service life. 1/16 is only .0625". When changing crankshafts you must use the matching connecting rods. They made different length rods for each application, that way the same pistons could be used with any crankshaft. The 4 3/4 stroke crank has rods that measure 7 3/4" center to center.The 4 1/2" stroke crank uses 7 7/8" rods. The 4 1/4 crank uses 8" rods. The others are made in proportion, the rod being 1/8 shorter for each 1/4 increase in stroke. The 4 3/4 stroke engine also had unusual looking rod bolts, the head is like a nail head. I believe they made these small headed bolts for crankcase clearance. One other change they made was to add a full flow oil filter to the 1952-54 Chryslers. You can tell this model instantly by the cast aluminum tower oil filter. The other models used a bypass filter that consisted of a cannister connected to the block by 2 small metal pipes. You cannot convert an older engine to full flow oil filter because the block castings are different. The full flow oil filter was also used on some industrial engines and truck engines. You can usually indentify an engine by the serial number. But when in doubt there is an easy way to check the stroke. On the #6 cylinder there is a plug, by unscrewing this plug you can drop a wire or small metal rod into the cylinder and measure the stroke directly by turning the engine over carefully. This hole was provided to make it easy to find top dead center for tuning purposes. As for cruising speeds. When new the Plymouth had a top speed of 85 to 90 MPH, the heavy models 90 to 95. All would cruise comfortably at 55 or 60, but could do 70 or 80 if you wanted to push them. Today out of respect for the car's age I would keep the speed down to 55 or 60. But if you rebuild the engine with new pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump etc. and especially if you have the moving parts balanced, and use synthetic oil then cruising at 70 to 80 should be no problem. Edited by Rusty_OToole (07/08/07 09:56 PM)

Not sure if this applies to the Canadian built engines, or not. The crank flange on my 218 is an 8 bolt as is the 230 and 251s. Is this the case with the Canadian engines. I do know that the Canadian 218 was only mated with a dry clutch and 3 spd trans, the 230 and 251s were bolted to a fluid drive clutch usually. If what you are saying is correct, I may have to rebuilt my 218, when it needs it, as I do not want to run fluid drive again in my Chrysler. Being the same block, as the 251, I suppose I could use a different crank and rods, or just beef up the 218 with shaving the head, decking the block, maybe a little port and polish, then fitted with dual carbs/exhaust......Fred

Bill here is a pic of the above noted engine, it appears to have a C on an embosssment before T335.............Fred

Thanx again Charlie, Right now I have a 218 ci Canadian Long Block in my 47 Chrysler coupe, it has a dry clutch and 3 spd trans with a 3.73 rearend. I have no idea how many miles are on this engine, whether it was rebuilt since it was new in 1951. Current status of this engine, compression 100 to 110 across the board. Oil pressure when warm is 40 lbs at an idle, 50 to 55 at highway speed. This engine does not smoke, or appear to have an oil burning problem, it does however leak like a siev, going through about a quart every 500 miles, most of which is leaking out the rear mainseal or oil pan. Only other problem with this engine, it has a slight lifter tick. I am not sure how many miles it can handle, if I can use this engine a while longer or not. When I started to use this engine, the water jackets were filthy, water tube half plugged. The valve chamber, had next to no sludge, so maybe thats a good sign. As I have blathered on about, I am afraid to push this engine too much because I don't know how many miles etc. I have a 228, longblock from a 1955 Fargo truck, it runs well, water jackets are super clean, was used inthe truck until 3 years ago, when the owner put in a V8. This engine is okay too. I have a seized 251 with full flow oil filter, vavlve chambers clean, cylinders look good, very little ridge, may or may not be a good candiadte for rebuild. I also am going to buy the Massey Combine engine, it's either a 251 or a 265, hours unknown, owner says it runs well and does not use oil. So for now I will use the 218, then decide which route to go, on another engine...............Thanx Fred

Thanx Don

Thanx Charlie, if that be the case, I already have a 251 sitting in a 48 Chrysler, but it's seized, and was rebuilt using the Chrysler Method" in 1956, whatever that means. If the 251 I have was rebuilt once already, can it be done again, even if it's currently seized.........Fred

At least he know now where he doesn't want to be, he should come over and hang with us, Rebels.........Fred

Hi Don, I have also heard that the Oil Breathers are superior. I have one on my 47 Chrashler, it is in great shape. I had cleaned it very thoroughly last year and filled it with fresh oil, my question is, with my limited driving, how often should it be cleaned and re-olied? Fred

Hi all, just came back from looking at a 265 ci flattie from a combine. This engine looks in good shape, has the original orange paint, although it's faded, it's not all greasy or oily looking. It apparently did not use olil when last used, never overheated, had good oil pressure. It was from around a 1970 or 1972 combine, it has a Mopar alternator on it, it also has the updraft manifold and carb. I tentatively bought it for a $100.00. I was wondering if parts were as readily for the 265 as they are for the 251. I have plans for this engine to go into my 47 Chrys at some point to replace the 218 Canadian long block, that I have now. Any ideas suggestions, welcomed..........Fred

There are a few things you can do to get your highway speed up, you can swap the hog heads on your diff, to taller gears, install taller tires, go with an OD trans, or swap in a diff with taller gears, it's all been done by memebers on here. The oil pressure is good, (how many miles on her), and is your temp is around 180 degrees great, you can alo check it when the engine is running and warmed up with an infared thermometer, or stick a cooking thermometer in the top of the rad, this will verify your gauge..................good luck Fred

Hey you, Gimli is only 30 miles away from where I live. I was at the Lilypad Cruisers 7th annual Show and Shine last weekend with my 47 Chrysler Coupe. I also own a 1955 Fargo 1/2 t truck framewith complete drivetrain, but no body or box, and idea where I might find one? I am located just outside of Selkirk off Hwy #9.....Welcome to the best Mopar forum going, been on here 3 years..........Fred PS when you come to a complete stop in 3rd or 2nd, keep it in 2nd or 3rd momentatrily, then shift into 1st or R, thats what I do, it works no grinding or noise

I bought a brand new black 1997 Neon Sport, with Air 5 spd, fast little car, drove it to close to 300000 km or 180000 miles, sold it to the neighbours kid, he smashed it up in a month......was a good little car. I once bought a 1989 Firefly, drove that little puppy all the way to Southern California twice, was super cheap on gas, and quick too.........Fred

Hola Crap is right, yes he also Lurks on PWHM 1946 to 1948 Chryslers, and possibly the Walter P. Chrysler Forum...........Fred

Sorry to hear this Jim, thats thesalt and mild Southern Ontario winters that will do that, might have saved her in Polar Manitoba............Fred

Not sure Arthur, I am using glass beads, nice finish with this product, don't see any reason to go with soda, on a car body yes, but small items, this glass bead is great.

There are 2 265s for sale here, both in different locations, both supposed to be running, one looks good the other not so good, both can be had for $100.00. I would say here in Thrifty Manitoba, you would not pay more than $200.00 for a flattie and trans set-up, at least I wouldn't. I would send one of mine, you could have it, but shipping would be more than it would ever be worth..........Fred

Tim you are right, the Law, usually has bigger fish to fry, unless the perp, has a lot of rip-offs going on, and that he may have been under investigation. I really don't think this is the case in this case. Just some, Moron, who is notconcerned about anyone but himself, otherwise this would not have happened in the first place. The positive, is we know who it is, we know who we are dealing with, and hopefully nobody else on this forum gets scammed by Mr R. again.