55 Fargo

Did y'all order from Rock Auto, they have real fine prices for a lot of parts for our cars, all the best..............Fred

This is true, but should you not use the pump that has the backing pplate for internal by-pass, for an internal by-pass engine? I read somewhere on our website, that you can use the waterpump designed for internal bypass on a non- bypass engine, because the by-pass is in the t/stat housing, with the short hose, correct? But you should not use the waterpump designed for an external by-pass engine on the internal by-pass engine (1950 and beyond), as the coolant would not by-pass, with this type of waterpump, is that correct? If I am wrong, I would like to know what is need, just in case I need to change my water pump.......Fred

The waterpump you need for the P 23 engine is the internal by-pass type, if you use the non by-pass type you will have problems, as your engine is designed to use the internal by-pass waterpump. I am not sure if the water pumps for the 23.5 inch block is different than the pump for the 25 inch block, but I doubt it.

Hi all, have not tackled this job as of yet, my engine leaks oil out of the back of the oil pan big time, probably 1 ounce per day, or so it seems. I am going through a quart of oil every 500 miles, this engine is not smoking oil out the tail pipe, It was appearing to smoke a little this spring, when I was using Wallyworld Oil, since I have switched to Castrol 20 W 50, no evidence of burning any oil, just leaks like crazy. I am going to drop the pan and change the gaskets on the oil pan. I do not plan to change the rear main seal, because on my 1951 engine, I think I need to have the flywheel off to do the job, and I ain't going to do all of that again in-car if I can help it, I know now I should have done this last summer when I did the rear freeze plug repair, had the flywheel machined, new clutch, but did not touch the pan gasket or rear main seal. If I change the oil pan gasket, will this help with the oil leak if the rear main seal still leaks? I really need to slow down this oil leak, this is the only thing I find needs to be corrected on this engine at the moment, "touch wood"............Fred

You could add some grease into the axle bearing fittings on the diff, if they need it, check your lube levels in your trans, diff for peace of mind, as well inspect your wheel cyls, mc level, and maybe repack your front wheel bearings, if you are so inclined..........Fred ps don't forget about checking the levels in your steering box

hehehehehe, shame on me kant ur spel, them thar wurds propurly, givem, Ole Roy from that big ole store wallmart, thems be sparkin all night long.

Hi all, pulled my plugs tonight, they have about 1500 to 2000 miles on them since March, when I last ahd them out. They were amazingly clean, not fouled a slight brown/beige tinge to them, but other wise clean. Does this mean all is well internally on my engine, I was expecting to see either black or some carbon, as the engine is old, and I don't think rebuilt. I cleaned the plugs,as I mentoned not very dirty, regapped them and installed them with a bit of never seize on the threads. I am guessing the igntion/fuel portion of my engine must be okay.......Fred

Hi James, will do, I will forward you the photo and his name along with his email address..........Fred

Looks good Steve, nice blue color also...........fred

Amazing isn't it. We go and with all good intentions buy something, and someone is not honest, rips people off, then the scallywag hurls the abuse, comes up with some lame retarded ailibi, just be "Honest and Upfront", thats all anyone expects and should recieve if they are giving you there money for a product or service, what the "BLOODY H" do these guys think, that everyone has money to send around the globe for the fun of it.. I work evreyday with criminals, the way these guys do business, is exactly the way so many cons have conducted themselves in life. They wonder how come they wind up in prison, well it's often everybody elses fault.........Fred

Lacosa Nostra "Our Thing", this P15 D24

This is interesting, I wonder where in Canada thaty are making these replacement panels......Fred

Hi Dan, yes I have been to this website, I have posted a question on there as to how old this tiller might be, but so far no response. When I went over to a small hicktown lawnmower repair shop not far from home to buy a new belt, the owner had another just like mine sitting with his other old yard machines out back, what are the chances of that. They no doubt made a lot of these machines that were sold in the USA and Canada.........Fred

I have met a few of these guys before, never joined there club not sure if I will or not. Funny thing is, I feel I know you guys a whole lot better, guess that happens after being a regular on here for 3 years, have got a lot of help, laughs and guidance from you guys on this forum..........Fred

Thats exactly where I think my squeak is coming from, I will try this out..............Thanx Fred

Hi all, last week I was informed that my tiller engine a 1955 B & S 2 /34 hp engine cylinder was scored, could not be repaired. Same day, Princess Auto a large Canadian retailer of discount tools hardware etc, has 6.5 hp Honda Clone engines on sale:) for $122.22. I mention this to my folks, my Dad goes and buys me one, I bring it home, install, put on a new belt and pulley, add oil and gas, and vavoom the engine starts first pull, and is she ever quiet and smooth. Very happy with this Chinese made Honda knock off engine, did a lot of tilling the last couple of days, the old tiller works great too, needed a little bit more lube in its drive mechanism, but she works just fine so new tiller, cost $122.22 plus $12.00 for a drive belt.............Fred ps I know the engine is cheap, but Honda parts can be used with it, even if I get 5 years it's worth it

Rustoleum Enamel is brutally tough, once it's cured and adhering well to a surface. Thsi stuff is great for a base, ie the Rusto primer, then all your bodyfiller, primer/surfacer, topcoats can over this. It makes an excellent substrate primer, and has a great anit-corrosion properties, and the best part is it's darn cheap to buy, Removing the grill and all of the trim is a good idea, then you can sand strip, prime and paint, this not only makes for a btter job, it will also look better as a finished product............Fred

Hi all, this evening I was out cruising , been doing that a lot lately, put on over 500 miles on the odometer of the 47 in the last few weeks. Anyway, I am driving down Hwy 9, its a single lane old highway with a speed limit of 100kmh or 62 mph, I was doing about 55 mph, as I was getting near my road to turn off, I notice a number of cars behind me, I decide to pull onto the shoulder and let them pass, I pullover, the cars are passing, then I notice a white 64 Impala SS convertable:D , he immediately pulls over, he and his wife and daughter were cruising and just wanted to see if all was well:eek: with me. We shoot the breeze for a few minutes, he is the President of a local car club, " Lilypad cruisers" out of Petersfield Mb. He invites me to the Selkirk A & W, they all meet there on Wednesdays nights in summer, Selkirk is only 5 minutes away so I join them and a few others. Swell group of guys, also got invited to join the club, and was also invited to there show and shine this Saturday. I hope to go, and hopefully the weather will be nice. Just goes to show, us old car guys are a great bunch...........Fred

Rodney I am going through the same thing right now, it is coming from the right front, either a fitting needs grease, or the shock mount is squeaking or something. I did this to myself, I have been washing with my pressure wahser a lot under the car, the front end, backing plates, etc. My greasegun is not working, so I am going to go buy another, hopefully I will eliminate this totally annoying, embarassing noise from the car. This Saturday, I am taking the car to a small local Show and Shine, was given a personal invite from the Lilypad Cruisers of Petersfiled Mb. Club President on the highway this evening..........Fred

Rodney, ain't nothin like the feelin when all is well with the "old cars" isn't it. Glad to hear all is well again, I don't sleep or live well when something is major wrong with my cars........Fred

James, glad to hear you got things runnin again. 72 YO, whatta ya mean too old, heck you did it didn't you, hope I can do the same if need be in 26 years when I am 72.............Fred

Now, this gives this individual a Clear nessage and opportunity for redemption. I hope the party comes clean, either refunds your money, explains the truth, or makes an arrangement to pay you. You are being a fair man, a Gentleman actually, I hope this matter resolves itself promptly, and this forum can move beyond this situation................fred

Hi all, a gent I know from PWHM 46 to 48 Chryslers, has a car for sale near Grand Forks ND, he lives in Central California, and has decided to sell this car, its a 1947 Chrysler Windsor Club coupe, it is not running, but is fairly decent and complete. Last year he was trying to get $700.00 for it, but may want to make a better deal this year. I could use this car for parts etc, but my finances will not allow this at this time. I am not in the business of selling cars nor is the owner of this car, just wanted to know if anyone is interested in this car for parts or a project. I have one pic of the car, if anyone is interested, I can put you in contact with the owner who lives in California...........Fred

Thats great, is this engine rebuilt? If not have you gone over the igntion, fuel system, cooling system etc. The brakes, have your MC rebuilt, or buy another, or are you going with upgrade front disc and a dual mc. Either way get all new lines, hoses, Raybestos wheel cyls are priced well through Rock Auto, front disc kits are available from Old Daddy ( just purchase the pads, rotors and calipres at your local NAPA for Charlies kits, he has a great price on them), and ECI Brakes, Scarebird etc. No feeling like hearing the flattie fire up the first time......................Fred