55 Fargo

Chet, I posted this in th morning today, this happened about an hour away from where I am sitting. I was asked why I posted this by another member, yes it is a real savage evil killing, but wanted to share this with my friends on this forum, not to sensationalize it, just to report the very sad side of human life. Just because this happened in Manitoba, a very lightly populated Prairie Province, does not mean we don't have savage killings once and a while. This a real tragedy, I feel sorry for the folks who witnessed this, and the post trauma this might invoke. My heartfelt sentiments co out to the victims next of kin..........Fred PS this must have been a big deal to hit CNN, as most events in Canada do not.

Canada will switch to waterbase I think in 2010. Ingredients, wouldn't surrrise me, no doubt in 10 or 20 years, the new water based products will be not goo either, whats next soy based., or canola oil based..........Fred

Jon, no disrespect, but I apologized from the start of this thread. Maybe I should remove it.....Fred

Lou, looks good, like the color and all. Let us know when you try the Chrome paint, like to see how it comes out..........Fred

I also did floors with urethane clear coating some years back, it went on real slick, not sure how it stood up, as I sold that house a while back.....Fred

I have chosen to dlete this thread because of it's graphic nature.

Hi all, was looking at the Candian Tire Flyer (Canadian Chain Store), Tremclad Rust paint (Made By Rustoleum for the Canadian market), is now available in water based rust paint. Now this is odd, who would have thought there would be a water based paint for rust:eek: , almost an oxymoron:rolleyes:. This paint is more expensive too , guess the VOC laws will eliminate evrything solvent based someday, Macco here in Winnipeg is already using some water based primer and paints:D ..................Fred

Thanx Jeff, Rust Mort really is designed for heavily rusted metal and not clean sandblasted metal, or any metal that is mostly derusted..........Fred

Hi all, was getting gas tonight near work, a small chain gas station called Race Trac Gas. Anyway, the store owner, is about 70 yo, we get to talkin about Chrysler Flathead sixes, he goes on to talk about using the in Stock cars in the late 50s early 60s, he used to rev the you know what out of them, ran straight pipes out of the exhaust ports, Fenton type aluminum finned heads, multiple carbs etc. This Dude knew his flatheads, had a lot of good info, he also loved these engines, he claimed they would rev up there stock car engines to 4000 to 5000 rpm, not sure about that, but it sounded good. Nice to run into others who know these engines, and love them too.......Fred

If you do the R and R, about $2500.00 to $3500.00, try and find a decent used engine for now, you can swap them and have yours rebuilt whenever, that way you can drive the truck.......fred

Hi Welcome to the forum, good to see another Winnipeg area member hope to see your truck in person sometime.......Fred

Bob, good to see another Mopar going back into service. Maybe he could get another flattie from somehere for the time being, Missouri must have a lot of flatheads around. That would sure save him a lot of work in going to a SBC, then going back to a flattie, a lot of work in both prospects. He might be better off to try and find another flattie now and swap it in..........PS not that there is anything wrong with having a SBC

100 lbs, is considered acceptable, or even less if they are consitent with each other. 60 lbs is on the low side. Any idea how many miles onthis engine? Have you been running it very long? Too bad your so long away from my location, I could hook you up with another engine in short order.........Fred ps Bill W from our forum also lives in the Vancouver area, he is very knowledgable on Mopar flatheads.

5.9, these are all fairly consistent readings, 100 to 110 is usually best, but if they are all 95, not so bad. The #5 cyl is a bit off from the rest, possibly sticking/leaking valves, a bit of a head gasket leak in this area, or rings that are more worn on #5. I had a lower reading on #5 cyl when I first got my flattie going after several years, it still runs very good, my reading were a little higher than yours, 100 to 110 with # 5 being the 100..........Fred

Kevin, you might be able to take it and have it machined, down a bit, this can be done where they rebuild clutches and flywheels. If there is very little rust, say just surface rust, how about steel wool, or fine sandpaper. If this rust is heavy, maybe this part should be machined smooth, that would take care of any possible warpage or uneven surfacing. I may be wrong about this, so someone else may chime in to correct me. This part is called a Clutch driving plate, is attached to the fluid coupler, and the clutch pressure plate bolts to it, the clutch disc mates with the surface of the clutch driving plate. PS just looking at my Mopar service manual, the clutch drive plate requires a special puller to remove it from the fluid drive hub. Do you have the fluid drive off now? Maybe you could just clean up the surface by hand, just to get the rust off, this you may be able to do without taking off too much clutch plate material. Not sure if this helped or not.........Fred

This method works very well, I would highly reccommend you try this, I have done this on my flattie already. The Electrosol cleans out a lot of greasy, goopy crud, that is a result of old glycol antifreeze and water. This is straight forward and simple to do, try it you will be pleased with the results............Fred

Hi Phil, I hear you on the "trials and tribulations", I have had a few myself. All is well at the moment with my engine, with the exception of the oil leak. I have a spare engine in the wings from a combine, if my current engine goes south all of a sudden. I really need to concentrate on body/paint now, I want to get all of the bodywork done,followed by paint. Then chrome and interior, then I will maybe go back and play with any mechanical issues that still exist, hopefully I am not doing this backwards.................Fred

Hey Reg, I figure you might have a likin for the flathead 6s. Do they all run?

Wow Phil that swap was done a while ago, any idea how many miles you have on that engine, what kind of condtion is it in. I am contemplating doing the rear main seal and oil pan gasket on my 1951 D40 engine, but I am not real keen on pulling the trans and flywheel to do the seal, yuk, not a fun job, should have done it last year, when I did the rear frost plug...........Fred

Merle, what about wetsanding, then shooting on some clear, would that clean it up.........Fred

Hi Dave that looks great, will look killer once polished out. Yes it was time consuming, but the prep is always time consuming in any autobody makeover. Once all the bodywork and prep is done, the painting and wetsanding, can be done fairly quickly, if you are willing to work at it daily, till it's done. I am really thinking of mixing Rusto (Tremclad paint), with autobody enamel reducer, and Evercoats universal gloss/hardner agent, and using my HVLP spraygun to lay on the paint. I know it would turn out nice, and hopefully save a lot of bucks, that I don't have. I am glad you followed through on this experiment, looks great........Fred

I posted this on another thread a while back, just thought this might be of some interest to you.........Fred Here is a number of items that require attention to have this engine run at a decent temp w/o overheating. -clean rad with good flow and the ability to dissipate heat, particularly important at highway speed, and when ambient temps outside are hot. -fan belt tight, fan in correct position for maximum flow, especially important in slow city traffic at speeds under 35 mph. -water dist tube, needs to be free and clean - water jackets pronounced clean, remove side freeze plugs, clean out, flush every hole you can. -correct waterpump in good shape and working -rad hoses in good shape, especially the bottom hose -160 to 180 t/stat, drill small hole in lip, to allow air to escape when filling system. -correct engine timing, correct point gap - heat riser, not stuck in cold warm-up position to allow hot exhaust to circulate to intake, rather than exhaust freely. - brakes not dragging. If all of these itmes are functioning in good order, you should be okay, if not something is amiss if you overheat and boil over. If your current outside ambient temps are over 85 daily, then you may run hotter under the hood, a good target is 170 to 190, even the odd time up to 195 or even 200 is not going to be critical, it's when you start climbing to 205 210, that the trouble begins. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze will raise the boiling point to 220, a pressurized rad will add 3 degrees for every 1 psi of pressure. -warmer climates, ie Arizona, California, 75% water 25% antifreeze would be fine You want to keep it under 200, it's best if it could be maintained at 185 degrees, your engine will run cleaner and more efficiently.............................Fred

Hi Tim, thanx for the reply. I am using Sems Rustmort, so brush or spray bottle it on, then, rinse the whole panel after the alotted time for the Rustmort to work, then use a rag just dampened with the acid, wipe quickly then prime, Correct? Rustmort is supposed to stay on 24 hours, but I don't think clean sandblasted metal will need it to sit on that long, any idea how long the acid should sit on, before rinsing? Thanx Fred

Hi all, just had my spare trunk lid sanblasted, it turned out great and was only $30.00 at the local Headstone maker. I have to repair the rust yet in the bottom lip, but I am going to prime it with my favorite rust primer first. Now this ? is for Tim Adams, should I sand it first before shooting on the Tremclad, it is super clean metal now, with the exception of the inner bottom lip, whichj is a bit of swiss cheese now. I want to primer it ASAP, as it is extremely humid here these days...............Fred ps sure beats a bunch of time trying to sand all the paint and rust off, and it is not warped in the least, so $30.00 is sure worth it, going to have my rear fenders done there also.

What an awesome car, get her fixed and on the road, she is meant to drive.......Fred