55 Fargo

Take care and cover you guys, wet and extremely windy here too the last few days, Tornado warnings too, much cooler here today, about 60s.

A couple of weeks ago, with my 47 Chrysler Coupe with flathead 6 underhood I pulled into a local country general store with gas pumps etc. The owner and another local yoko, started jabbering, oh you should put a Hemi In the car. I said why a Hemi, how about a SBC, that way I can be like everyone else around here, I wasn't in the greatest mood at the time. I love flathead 6s, mine runs great, I also like SBC engines, but don't want one in this car, at least not at the present time, but everyone else knows what we should be doing with our cars, these 2 guys, are okay , but neither one has any of there old cars running and on the road. Some guys have great ideas, are also fussy, have big plans how to do the body-off resto, but all too often never get a car finished and on the road. I started with a real basket case, it isn't finished yet, I know the amount of time money and work that goes into fixing an old wreck can take. Oh, just caught myself, not trying to hi-jack your thread, hope you can helpd this guy out with his Desoto, glad to hear of another old Mopar on the road..........Fred

Thanx Joel, so using bondo fillers/fibreglass resins, 2 k urethane or epoxy primers, lacquer based primer, acrylic enamel or urethane paint should be fine over rusto primer? I have done most of these things to date,on my rustoleum type metal primer on my car, so far no problem, hopefully there is no problem. I am going to PM you, I have some filler questions, if you don't mind? Will do this later today, or might email you..........Thanx Fred ps luv the Truck, hope to see it someday

The 2 K Urethane primer/surfacer, is compatible with the following, it can be applied over , all sanded clean OEM finishes whether there enamel or urethane, 2 k epoxy primer, etch primers, all body fillers and putties. As I have mentioned before, there is an individual that uses Rustoleum Primer, as a base primer,on bare steel. He then uses auto grade lacquer based primer/surfacer, with filler and putty, to date he has done several cars, with no ill effects to the 1 st base coat Rust primer, no paint has fallen off or wrinkled etc. The cars he has painted are topcoated with single stage acrylic enamels. There are some high end resto shops in the USA, that use plain old Rustoleum primer,as a 1st base on very expensive classic car restos. I will agree with follow the directions of a manufacturers paint system, as it would yield the best results, but unless you are a trained professional, ie, you work in the industry, and have been trained by say PPG on the use of there product lines, you as a backyard painter, may not be privy to the manufacturers warranty. I have personally used the rust primer on my car, it was reduced with Medium Speed acyrlic enamel reducer, 3 coats wet-on wet. To date I have also put over this primer, bondo filler, fibreglass filler, fibreglass resin. These products are very strong , they did not phase the rust primer, this primer is not soft, it is hard as rock. I recently painted some heat registers, I used white rust rattle can paint, this paint is over a month on the registers, it is still soft, that is because I did not doctor there formula, with hardener or reducer, that paint would no doubt have troubles with adhesion and compatibility with other paint type. Whatever works, works, not everything does mind you, the guy who gave me the rusto primer idea, I respect and value his judgement, he has a proven track record working with these products..........Fred

That has never happened to me using this type of primer, maybe the paint is different, I als never had the paint/primer stay soft, once hardner was included. I think for some reason the Rutoleum you had on the running boards may have never fully cured, that would cause a problem like this. I have used fibreglass resin, bondo, now urethane products, on the fully cured ruso primer, never an issue to date. I know another on this forum who uses filler, and lacquer based priomer surfacer, and acrylic enamel topcoats over ruto primer, with neve na adhesion problem. 2 K Primers, can be different though, so as you say your best to strip to metal and shoot on the epxoy.......Fred

Hi all, I bought a high build urethane primer/surfacer yesterday. I was concerned about using it over Rusto pirmer, which is really alkyd/oil based primer. No issues whatsoever with urethane over the rusto primer, in fact I have been using body filler and fibregalss resin over it too, no issues with adhesion/ wrinkling or peeling. So far so good, if I was to do this over again, I might prime over the bare metal with 2 k epoxy primer, it is reasonably priced for the more economical brands. I still think the rust primer doctored with reducer, is a great substrate/initial primer, it has great adhesion, and corrosion protection, as does epoxy primer, but a 2 k epoxy primer has fantastic corrosion/water resistant properties. So far so good, plan to topcoat with acrylic enamel.........................Fred

Hi Johnny, I know where there is a 1943 Dodge 2 1/2 ton Army Truck here in Manitoba, it's owned by someone I know. It runs, has new rubber, but needs brakes and other things, it's for sale for $500.00, not in the cards right now, $500 can buy a lot of things for my 47 Chrashler right now.........Fred

Jerry here is a pic of the $215.00 tank in my 47 Chrysler Coupe, it is the Tanks.inc, 1941 to 1948 Mopar Gas Tank. You have to mod the mounting straps a bit, the filler neck hooks up very well to the stock filler neck extension that comes up to the gas cap. If you are running a 12 v system no issue with a 1 wire fuel sender unit, if you are running a 2 wire 6 volt snder, you need to shorten the float arm and place ii in a slight different direction, quite simple actually.........Fred ps so far very happy with this tank, should have bought there stainless version for $325.00 though

Hi Steve, thanx for the info, looks like decent paint. Whats it like to worrk with ,does it spray on nice, is it real shiny, how much car, can you do with a gallon...........Fred

Hi Rodney, no I don't just through out the remains of the only piece I had, it was even too rough for a template, will make something up myself, maybe use, some 1/8 masonite, with flexifoil or carpet attached to it , that is a good sound deadner..........Fred

Looks good Dennis, might try something like this myself...Thanx Fred

Hi all, my rust repairs inside my trunk have been a while ago, it is painted inside with a stain black, I currently have black indoor/outdoor carpet on the floor. I am thinking about what to use as a permanent covering on the floor protion of the trunk. I also need to do some repair area on the rear outer edge of the trunk floor, the portion that rises up, in the middle of it is the latch striker plate for the trunk latch assembly. As this 4 inch wide portion is rough, I am thinking of running the carpet or rubber flooring up and onto this section, this would cover all the ugly beat-up look to it, or I can use a filler and smooth it over and paint it I suppose. Just fishing for some ideas, and to see if my idea would work or not...........Fred Here is a pic of my trunk, at the time of the this pic, it was dusty and dirty in there with wires hanging, it's cleaned up now with better paint, although it still gets dusty as the trunk lid weather strip is in rough shape. My question is this, would it be alrigh to cover the whole floor including the rear section that rises up on the floor where the striker plate is mounted?

Mirage, the Tech oil inthe USA may come from a different source/location than in Canada, I did not get this information from a clerk, I got the info from the Wal Mart of Canada head of Automotive Services Canadian Division In Toronto, he then directed me to Safety Clean, I then spoke with the Manager of the oil refinery in Chicago, this is when and how I got this info on what and how Super Tech/Tech oil is manufactured, at least for the Canadian market..........Fred

Tim you use Risilone, so did I at times. And Mirage you are absolutely right on the oil viscosities, he is certainly better off using the heavier oil you have recommended

Phone Wal Mart and they will tell you, Wal Mart Tech or Super Tech oil, is re-refined in Chicago, by Safety Clean Products. I have no issues since I have returned to Castrol GTX 20 W 50, I do not burn oil on acceleration or deceleration. My engine compression is 105 to 110 across the board, oil pressure is 40 lbs at an idle, and 50 to 55 at highway speeds. The engine is not rebuilt, has miles on her, but when I removed the valve covers, next to no sludge. I have used Wallyworld oil on other engines, but have since only used some better products. Phone Wal Mart, ask them where the Tech or Super Tech oil is made, I am not talking about there synthetic line. I have done this research last spring,sorry will not use Wallyworld house oil again, only my opinion. As far as governement requirements and standards, well hopefully they are reliable, not sure how much I trust huge wealthy oil companies, but I suppose quality control is regulated.........

Not sure about Wallyworld staright 30 or 40, the Wallworld Tech or Supertech oil is re-refined oil, my experience with it was not good, it would thin out when warm, and mt flattie would puff blue. Since switching back to Castrol 20 W 50, no issues, I like this oil and Rotella 15 W 40, for flatties. I also have heard good things about Lucas oil additives, whether it's snake oil or not is to be seen...........Fred

The best Mopar I ever owned in the 90s was a 1997 Neon Sport Coupe, gave me a 130000 miles of trouble free driving with the exception of the head gasket, an inherent problem with these cars. I sold it to the neighbours kid, he smashed it up in a month. I currently have a 2005 Dodge Caravan, it's olay, but does have a few minor electrical problems,so far just the usual maintenance things, with the exception of the front swaybar bushings. I have 55000 miles on it now.....Fred

The important question is, what does the Mackster like and prefer, all others are secondary....

Hey Mackster, I like it man, lookin cool.

Yall better have an old toilet bowl flower pot:p to go with that couch, heck this old red neck place down the road from me, has the couch,toilet, claw foot bathtub, and a stationary cowboy sitting on the couch:D

Has anyone tried the Trinity 1945 Starfire Acrylic Enamel kits, they have a lot of nice colors, it is a good price, $71.00 for a 1 gallon kit, includes the reducer and hardener. They have a lot of nice colors, the down side is you have to pick one of there ready made colors, but there are quite a few of them to choose from. Just was wondering if anyone has tried this paint, I will most likely go with Centauri, but who knows, maybe this paint might be okay.....Fred

What happened did you notice it having problems over the acid etching primer, how long has the etch primer been on? I thought once the etch primer was good and cured you could shoot enay primer over it including 2 k epoxy, but maybe not.

Looks Great, but heck it's on the wrong side of the firewall..........LOL