55 Fargo

I agree, there are plenty of good epoxy primers aout there, some have a pot life of 8 hours or more, some have a film build that is thick, they all have super adhesion properties. Epoxy primer seals very well, as you mention can go over firmly adehered surfaces. It is hard to sand, so this is where you can shoot on a high build primer surfacer, such as PPGs K36 or PPG K39, these 2 primers will sand and block sand to a nice fine finish, then BC or Topcoat can then be laid on after this. I know guys up here that have done all there body work, then shot on black or grey epoxy primer, then drove the cars like this for a while, with no problems. I personally used enamel rust primer, mixed with medium speed enamel reducer, it is much like epoxy primer in appearance, it also seals well, adheres fantastically, and so far has no rust issues, this is not for everyone, but is okay with me, my next step, is more body work to be followed by highbuild primer, sanding,blocking and topcoat........

See see you can do it, Steve either rent, borrow, or buy from Princess Auto an engine hoist, get a buddy who "knows how", and pull the engine. At the same time clean up the trans, bell housing, take the flywheel in for machining and balancing, flip the ring gear or get a new one, clean up and paint firewall and innner fenders, starter motor, genny have rad cleaned, paint and clean fan and pulleys, etc. Once the engine is rebuilt, and everything is cleaned up and painted, you can re-install,the engine. Gte a new clutch and pressure plate if yours is old, or have the old clutch rebuilt. Once this is completed, you should be good for many years, don't forget to check out the intake and exhaust manifolds, make sure your heatriser isn't stuck in the wrong position..........good luck

Steve, heck you could hall the engine to where Kevin had his done in California, and still save bucks, and have a holiday at the same time. Seriously, shop around, pull the engine yourself, then take the block in for the rebuild.........

Steve , pull the engine yourself, it ain't that difficult, get several estimates as already mentioned. I would even get estimates in Washington State, you could drive the few hours to the Seattle area and may be save some bucks. Or try and find another engien,used and in good shape, if that is possible........Fred

PPg K 36 or PPG K39, urethane based 2 k Primers. My uncle figures these are great products, he is an eclusive PPG product user though. Are you stripping the car to bare metal, or are you priming and doing bodywork over the OEM substrate. 2 K Epoxy primer can be used,as a first primer, it has superior adhesion properties, is excellent on bare metal, will also adhere to clean prepped oem finishes as well, it has less build properites, and does not sand as well as primer surfacer. But once primed with epoxy, you can do all your filler work, then shoot on primer surfacer, which has high build features, it will sand nicely too. After you sand, strip, panels, epoxy prime, do all filler metal work, followed by a PPG high build primer K36 or K39 primer surfacer, get everything nice and smooth, then blocksand to perfect your work, use a guide coat, to find all your highs/lows. Light colors will allow you to get away with less then perfect panels, dark colors, will enhance the imperfections, but dark colors also let body lines blend in better, where white will sometimes allow body lines to be more pronounced.........

How about a an electric fuel pump for back up, and or starting prime. Sorry to hear about your fuel pump dilemna Norm, how about a new pump froma different source, and/or reebuilding your own, or rebuilding a decent pump thats not from Carquest. The more I read about fuel pump issues, the more I like the electric pump idea as an auxillliary or back up pump..........Fred

Here is the trunk lid, the under side is all finished and painted Jet Black. The outer side is primered, but needs some filler, sanding, then it will be painted too. This trunk lid is m experiment learning curve, so far not too bad

Just got home from nightshift, 15 hours after the test panel was painted with the rust paint and hardner, the paintis as hard as rock, tried to dig my fingernails into the paint surface, no chance, very hard finish compared to not using a hardner...............Fred

Hi all, mixed up a batch of gloss black rust alkyd enamel high gloss, mixed it with 25 % medium spped reducer, and 1/8 part Evercoat DOI Wet Look Acrlyic Enamel Hardener Catalyst. These autobody products mixed just fine with alkyd rust enamel, sprayed on nice, shot on 3 coats wet-on-wet, little bit of orange peel, I suspected my paint was too thick (old paint in can), should have reduced the paint more. I am also using an HVLP gravity gun with a 1.4 tip, so maybe that might be a problem, more than likely it is the green operator that is to blame. So there we have it, hardware store rust enamel can be reduced with autobody enamel reducer and mixed with hardener both products are intended for acrylic enamel, but is working with alkyd enamel. I should be able to paint my car with this stuff, but will need to tweak my paint mixing and get a bit more experience with the paint gun, but it is definately a possibility. I would be using a medium blue, my test have been with blcak, black is a tougher color to work with..........Fred

The Brightside is good stuff Dave, and will or should hold up better than Rustoleum. I spilled fibreglass resin on my 1 week old primered trunk lid, the primer is a Rustoleum type paint iwht auto enamel reducer, but no hardner, did not phase it. Hey enamel is very tough paint, they painted stoves, and all sorts of outdoor equipment with it for years, it has a very hard surface once cured, the urethane paints, are definately glossier, should hold up better in the sun, but not sure if they are a tougher surface than cured enamel. The guy who started the roller paining thread on Moparts, his name is Martin, he is a Canadian from Toronto, he has 2 cars painted with Tremclad (Rustoleum ), he has spilt gas on it, dropped heavy objects on the cars, and no problems with the paint. One of the cars a 1974 Beetle, go into a sight fender bender, he repainted the fender, with Tremlcad, according to him, the old paint on the rest of the car was just as shiny, this was 5 years later, and no color/tint difference either.

Chets looked a lot worse than mine, although I had a hole, my corners were very solid, most of it was pretty solid, so I took the easy way out.......Fred

Rust Repair Update

Dave I think Roberts also has the 1 piece universal weatherstrip. Thanx for the heads up, I was going to order one of the supposed custom fits, too bad they don't fit, this is not the 1st time I have heard this........Fred

Kanters has them for sure, maybe Roberts to, not sure about Burnbombs

Hi all, I have looked at thew threads regarding the trunk, and under hood colors. I presume, the P15 and D24 had a blueish grey color in the trunk, the 46 to 48 Chryslers had whatever color the outside of the car was, in the trunk and under hood, with the exception of the inner front fenders which were satin black. I am currently just finishing my trunk lid, I had it sandblasted, I did some rust repairs, it is now in primer, once all of my work is complete, I want to put the topcoat on the inside. The rest of my trunk is satin black, I am not sure if I should do the underside of the trunk lid in Black, or go with the color I am thinking of using on the cars exterior, which is a medium shade of Blue, but that could change, before the whole car is painted. I would hate to paint under the trunk, and the underside of the hood, which is next, in the Blue, then switch colors. Would it look okay if I painted it Gloss Black under trunk/hood, even if my eventual car color is something else. Just fishin for ideas............Fred

Ed, I have found bikers take a lot of double takes, even the outlaw ones, they seem to like my old car...........

I get all kinds of questions, what is it, a Dodge, close it's a Chrysler. One. I am sick of is this, oh boy that will be a nice car when finished, that one annoys me, cuz I think she looks great now, especially where she came from. At the local Wallyworld parking lot, this older guy, and his wife pull up in a 1976 Porsche, he immediately walks to my car, says wow I love the car, he asks, does it still have the flathead 6, he knew his old Mopars. Last year, one of these Ice Cream truck guy pulls up beside me, he looks like Lloyd on Dumb and Dumber, he opens his mouth and says' "oh she is still rough" he is talking to his buddy. I retort, just like your gonna look like at 60 if you don't get fixed up, he just gives me a benign smile, I drive away laughing. I get stopped and asked questions all the time, mostly from old guys, at this local car show, a Lady about 65 also told me about some late night excursions in a big 48 Chrysler................Fred

With thiscurrent diff ratio 4.89, and P215 85 16 tires, around 30.4 inches tall, at 55 mph, your engine would be turning at 2972 rpm. 4.89 diff ratio 30.4 inch tire @60 mph 3242 rpm @65 mph 3513 rpm 4.11 diff ratio 30.4 inch tire @55 mph 2498 rpm @60 mph 2725 rpm @65 mph 2952 rpm You can calculate this yourself at www.4lo.com ..........Fred

I have a question from those who have used an electric fan either 6 ro 12 volt on our type of rads, not modern rads, but our type of rads. Now Don Coatney is corrrect, a fan does very little cooling after 40 mph, it is then airflow through the rad, anything restricting this, will impede efficient cooling. Now my question is this, when I am driving my car, and its extemely windy, my engine will run warm to hot when going with the wind, and of course run cooler when going against the wind. I attribute this to the vacuum effect, when going with a fast wind, the air, the wind resistance is lessened, thus creating much less airflow on the rad. Now when going with the wind on warmer days, and I mean strong winds, would a pusher fan compensate for this and create more airflow across the rad at highway speed thus increasing cooling efficiency, or is my theory wrong? On my 47, when the outside ambient temp is warm say over 65, and I am travelling with the wind, my engine can run up to 15 degrees hotter, when I go against the wind, or if there is a only a slight breeze in either direction, even on hot days, I run a normal 170 to 180 degrees engine temp, but as I have said, if travelling with a strong wind, my engine temp can go up to close o 200 on warm days. Just thought maybe a pusher fan could compensate for lack of airflow in these situations. Has anyone else experienced this with there cooling systems, am I overlooking another problem that may cause this? Thanx Fred

How are the motor mounts, you mention the clutch,maybe it's not aligned correctly when last installed, maybe there is a balance or some problem with the flywheel. Not sure if either of these items can cause what problem you are experiencing, or if this has something to do with the engine internally. I take this engine is a 251 Canadian built engine being your in Ontario? Hope someone else will chime in with better advice, welcome to the Forum BTW..........Fred

This guy goes to the bar, the bartender asks?, "what'll it be", the guy says Pepsi, the bartender says:confused: , WHAT, Pepsi, you always drink Scotch. The guy says, everytime I get drunk here, I hurl on myself:o , and the wife says if it happens again, she'll divorce me. The bartender leans over the bar and says, listen this is what you do, you put a $50.00 bill in your front shirt pocket, then when you hurl on yourself, you tell the wife the guy sitting next to you at the bar hurled on you and then paid you $50.00 for the drycleaning. The guy says , great idea, then proceeds to get drunk. When he gets home, his wife confronts him, what did I tell you:mad: , your drunk, and you hurled on yourself again, he tells her the story of the other drunk hurling on him, she asks, why did he give you $100.00, he answers , he crapped in my pants too ................

Started my engine tonight, it has been over 24 hours since last started, started first crack, not sure why the other day it went dry. I still am going to replace it ASAP, but also like the electric fuel pump idea.

Now Steve, you have got the right idea Buddy, getting together with friends, all with the cars, having a few and eating a good meal, now that is what car life is about. I was thinking about this on my home, I would love to be able to drive my car down and meet with some of you guys on here, I have been on here 3 years, and have not met any of yall face to face. I hope to be able to someday get down and join some of you, and hopefully bring the car. Being fairly far away in central Canada, I am a ways from a lot of even your Northern events, Detroit is about 1200 miles from my door, so it is a bit of driving I would have to do. Again, we all have differing ideas, likes and dislikes, but this Forum is like a Brotherhood of old Mopar guys, a lot of us have become good friends on here, I talk about you guys a lot with my own friends up here..........so no more squabbling or I will stop the car......LOL