keithb7

Heat soak it the term used when the engine is shut off and left to sit. Quickly, everything bakes as there is no more circulating coolant moving heat away. Gas evaporating form the float bowl, and possible vapour lock in the fuel lines can be symptoms when heat soak takes it's toll. As @Worden18 mentions, you will see the temp gauge rise. This is prime time when you are most susceptible to problems as you attempt to restart the engine. That's been my experience.

Putting my ‘38 tranny back together today. I’ll try the Redline MTL.

Yes you are going to experience issues with Ebay too. “People are the same wherever you go.” -P. McCartney. I’m just saying ebay is likely the one place with the largest offering of NOS parts. There are many sellers there with their inventory on the site. A quick example: I was considering a replacement synchromesh assembly for my 82 year old Plymouth car. I looked up the original part number in my 1938 parts book. I searched that part number on E-bay. There were many NOS options at various prices there. Not too shabby at all for an 82 yr old car.

In reality, unfortunately there is no single source of all the highest quality, great fitting parts. As cars get older, quality parts become more scarce. Reproduction parts? Few if any meet or exceed the original design by the Chrylser engineers. If I had to pick one place that has the largest selection NOS high quality parts? E-Bay. There is no easy quick answer. Your choice of part selection will come with experience. When ya get burned a few times you don’t forget.

Rarely seen, the man behind the moose is exposed! Plymouthy Adams akin to Grizzly Adams? I suspect so...

Illustrating the clearance that I enjoyed.

On your one question about car jacking. I raised my 38 up and used regular common 2T jack stands. Wheels remained on the car. The bottom of the tires about 5 ½" off the floor. No problem dropping and sliding the tranny out. Your tranny is about the same height as my 38 tranny. Not sure on your 52 Crankbrook if you can take out floorboards. In my '38 I can. It was so nice to gain full access to the top and bottom of the tranny. Makes for a quick easy re & re. A helper up top can assist with guiding from above if wanted. This pic illustrates how I installed the tranny myself, from the top side. I slid it on the guild bolts. Easy-peasy.

@JusticeBuford I get parts from various sources. E-bay is a very good source for quality NOS parts. Andy Bernbaum for some reproduction other parts. However quality and service there is spotty. There’s several more suppliers as well Oldmopar.com or Kanter Auto Parts. Egge machine shop has engine rebuild parts. Vintage Power Wagons another good one. Keep watching for local used parts offered for sale. There are plenty of people with dead old Mopars laying around. Many parts are interchangeable. A $100 load of used parts can save you a lot of money down the road. Welcome to the group. There is lots of good knowledge and helpful folks here.

I’m getting closer to meeting flat rate labor in 1953. Lol. That was fun. I learned lots more too. A neat snychro system. I have a better grasp how synchros work now. If I can help you with any questions Chris, I’m willing.

Chris the tranny I show above here is a 53 tranny. Not a 38. I am however, comparing the guts of this 53 tranny to my 38 tranny. Both are now currently apart. ?

I decided to punch it apart and get a good look inside.The 3 speed basic operation of this spare 53 tranny I have here is the same my 38 trannny. However I see updated parts. Synchro is different. Pinion appears the same. I ‘m going to do more parts comparing tomorrow. Chris if you drop your tranny, the rear output seal is an easy one to change. My ½” electric impact popped the main nut off easily. Then I used a dead blow hammer to pop off the park brake drum. Then you can easily access the rear seal. Seen below in this pic.

For kicks I took the shift linkage cover off this spare tranny I have laying around here. I believe it’s from a 1953 Belvedere. Looking at the guts inside, the gears and shafts appear identical to my ‘38 tranny. I may take it apart for spare parts. Pic of guide bolts that @JerseyHarold mentioned seen here.

Does your tranny look like this one? Weight seen. Hope my wife doesn’t see the bathroom scale here.

Weight of car, number or passengers, diff ratio, percentage of road grade, condition of engine tune, compression, car momentum and speed before approaching a hill all have a considerable impact. My generic statement of hill climbing performance is very vague.

What a P.I.T.A. @Todd B. Looking back at your threads I see that this has been going on for over 3 years. Electrical problems on modern vehicles can be a nightmare without a doubt. If you are diligent in searching, you may get lucky and find someone who wrecked, and is parting out their 2011 Ram Diesel. You could maybe get a deal on a good used computer this way. Hate to bring it up again, but Facebook Marketplace is a good spot to be looking. I just looked there and found a 2013 Ram Diesel being parted out near me here. At the risk of sounding like an arm-chair quarterback, could a fuel pressure gauge have been installed in the cab to monitor the fuel system to see what it going one there? Before throwing money at that system? Dropping the tank and changing the fuel pump was an expensive experiment. I installed fuel pressure gauge in my 1999 Ram Diesel. It's nice to know exactly what is going on while I drive it.

Perform s Google search. Do a little research. You'll likely find a scam. Send them payment, you never see it, or hear from them again. Additionally, would you put your life on the line working under a $51 car lift like this?

Does a 50 Windsor have the 251 ci engine? I thought it did. It definitely has the flathead. My ‘53 has the 265 engine. Its fine in town. On steep hills she can maintain 30-35 mph. No more. But its 1953. It purrs. Its classy. Smooth. Good enough for me!

A lovely reminder how nice and classy the Windsor is to drive. Running errands today. Made a lot of smiles on people’s faces today. Chasing storm clouds home. We made it. With the old opposing wipers getting caught in the rain is always dicy. Lol.

In later videos on their You Tube channel they progress further. They had plenty of wiring issues. Spark at the correct time seemed to be the issue. They also got the 12V conversion sorted out and finally got it running.

Thanks @westaus29. That's the best explanation I have seen yet for servicing a synchromesh. I have placed an order for a NOS synchromesh complete assembly. When it arrives and is installed, I will proceed to disassemble my worn synchromesh. To learn and better understand its function and assembly. My current plan of action is replacing the pilot bushing. Also I will attempt to check bell housing alignment with the crank. I think I have a spare pinion I can use to insert into the pilot bushing, then mount my dial indicator to. There is a chance it is out of alignment. The engine was swapped so it could be out. I'll see what I can mock up to work for an accurate reading.

Interesting perspective from the younger generation. Hey, they are trying, and they have lots of energy. A few years of reading this forum, months of reading manuals and sourcing parts, they'll be talking and sounding like the rest of us here. Keep at it guys. We all had to start somewhere.

I did some more reading and looked at my tranny closer again. I think I can answer my own question here about clutch gear wear. See the little brass squares in the pic above? These contact the cone shaped ramp on the adjacent gear. As the sliding synchro ring slides toward the neighbouring gear, the brass area rides up the ramp. As it engages, it speeds up or slows down, to match the rotating speed of the adjacent gear that it is engaging. My brass squares are worn pretty good. Then the speed does not match as well as it should. Then the gears grab and grind a little when they engage. This synchro is only used in gears 2 and 3. I found a new, original Chrysler, still in the box clutch gear assembly on Ebay today for $80. Seemed like deal to me. My tranny getting a new synchromesh. The ramp area on the adjacent gear is the shiny polished ring seen in the pick below. The green arrow pointing at it. I think I am on the right track here. Your comments are welcome. Thanks.

We lived at this spot for about 15 years. We built the deck, the retaining walls, the fences too, ourselves. We started from scratch and landscaped everything. It was a wonderful relaxing spot. It was a fair amount of work to upkeep but it was nice. We sold and moved to our current home about 2.5 years ago. So far we have not done much to the landscape. Just grass and a few little flowers here and there. You know how it goes...I'm too busy with old Mopars there days. A couple of pics of our previous garden, as it matured... Some of my best memories were working so hard with my wife to build the retaining walls and stairs. We cut up and removed the 20 year old old wood-based original retaining walls. We excavated all of it 3 ft back by hand with shovels. We carried every block in by hand from the front yard. 19 quantity of five foot high pallets worth if I recall. We placed all the crush drainage rock in by hand and packed it. Many a summer night we were out there working under lights well past dark. I was so very proud of my wife for her efforts in this project. We did it together. No heavy equipment. No help. Just her and I. We sifted all the dirt thru screens ourselves and layed out a base for the lawn. We carried away countless buckets of rocks that we sifted out. We took them away and dumped them. We installed sprinkler systems too. The project was a real marriage strengthener.

Good looking car! Congrats. Enjoy it. Certainly looks like a good candidate to throw some money at. You found a good home here on this site. All the help you might need is right here. I recommend seeking out an original shop manual. A parts manual is real nice too as it helps with sourcing parts. The parts diagrams are great too. A Motor's manual from about the period is a nice addition to own too. I can't help with performance parts. I run stockers. However there certainly are some fine folks here who are in the know. Welcome to the forum, it's nice to have some young blood here among us.

If its fairly rust free and runs, drives and the price is right go for it. Keep an eye out for used parts. There are lots out there. If you have the room, your own personal spare parts stash is nice to have. There are still lots of new general wear item parts available. Andy Bernbaum, Old Mopar, Rock Auto are a few parts sources. There’s several more. You need good brakes. You may need to go thru them. You didn’t mention it. Have a look on ebay to give you an idea on parts costs. 6V system is adequate if it is maintained with proper sized starter cables and good clean solid grounds. Personally I have no desire to upgrade to 12V. 6V is fine. These low revving flat head engines can take abuse. They seem to be pretty easy to get running. Without seeing the car, depending how picky you are, what you’ll spend to make it drivable can vary widely. Fun simple cars to work on and maintain yourself. Be aware of the opposite lug threads on the two sides of the car. Always spinning toward the front bumper is tightening. Got any pics to share.