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And my version- 1940 Dodge. Fun car to drive.

3:73 is better for highway, 4:11 is better for truck things and slower speeds. I read a post from a guy a few years ago, he had experience with 3:73 and 3:55 with a T-5. He loved the 3:73 and could cruise effortlessly down the freeway .... they worked good. The 3:55 gears, in 5th gear cruising down the highway was good, but if came to a slight or moderate incline ... he was always downshifting into 4th because he did not have enough torque in 5th to pull the incline ..... so with the 3:55 it kept him busy to drive it, enjoyed the 3:73 better. Same time many have ran the 3:55 gears with no problem, they have fresh engines .... some have headers and dual carbs .... they run ok with 3:55. You have a average motor with moderate miles on it, the 3:73 seem to be the sweet spot. Personally I think I want to stay with 3:73 to limit high speed. With a straight axle front end and factory springs/suspension. I imagine 70mph would feel like 100 mph and plenty fast enough.

It'll be quieter in the cab with a 3.73 over the 4.11

I see myself trying to spread out inside the trunk to sleep. Rear cab wall removed. Then clambering to get back out. The split (rear cushion splits only) bench seat, tilts forward only slightly. So you can access the spare tire behind the seat. There’s no way to get out the truck hatch from inside the trunk. I’m over 6 ft. Could be an interesting manoeuvre to get out of there via a cab door. Perhaps I’ll send my wife in there first. See if she can get out. She’s much smaller than me.

Well you inspired me to dig out some original brochures. It appears in 37 they called the basic lineup all business models. By P15 models the official name appears to just be a 3pass coupe however from my data book it's pretty clear they still knew their target customer

Interesting... I hadn't heard of that brand. Obviously I'm not familiar.

It's been my understanding that the 8 hole crank flanges were made to accommodate the Fluid Drive couplings. Generally you'd find them in the 230, and larger, engines. However, the 218 in my truck does have the 8 hole crank, because my truck has a Fluid Drive, with a standard 4 speed spur gear transmission. From what I've read, over the years, the 8 hole crank flange is thicker. Probably to accommodate the heavier FD. This added thickness is accounted for in the flywheel mounting flange offset. If you attempt to interchange the 4 bolt and 8 bolt flywheels you may encounter improper starter spacing, as mentioned earlier. It may be wise to do some measuring before going too far down the 're-drill' rabbit hole.

Merle, I thought the same but search show said company as listed.

Do you mean Rusty Hope disc brake kit? I have his kit on my truck. There are some challenges you'll need to work through, but otherwise it's been working fine for many years now. Much improved stopping power, even with the stock master cylinder.

Here is a replacement unit to give you an idea of what it looks like when not under the dash. New Replacement Closed-Cab Power Wagon Windshield Regulator - CC797133 – Vintage Power Wagons

Did car people just sort of add the word “business” over the last 60 years? Were they called a business coupe back in 1938? I hear stories of travelling salesman selling, out of cars like this. The rear cab wall being removed, and then they could easily sleep in the trunk. Is this folklore? I’m tempted to try it honestly. Go on a 2 nite road trip. Sleep in my ‘38 coupe. Try and find old roadside cafés to wash up and have breakfast. Could be fun!

Before you do anything, check the brake adjustment. If your brakes are out of adjustment you'll have to pump them to get them to work. Get a shop manual if you don't have one and follow the directions.

Rather than guessing, buy a brake pressure kit. It is a guage that screws inplace of a bleeder. That will tell you lots. If the fluid isn't squirting out at the T that switch ties into that is a problem, tells me no rear brakes to speak of. Since the fronts and the rears all get the same pressure from the same source I have to wonder how well the fronts are working? Finally, and this is important, you need to make sure your brakes are properly adjusted, otherwise this very issue can occur. Pressure will not build till the shoes hit the drums and if there is too much gap you cannot build enough pressure.

If you're going to install front disc brakes I would suggest going with rear disc brakes as well. I used the Rusty Hope front disc conversion and a Jeep Cherokee diff which had disc brakes and with 3.73 gears. My original 51 had a 3.73 so no issues with the speedometer. The truck stops like a modern vehicle with 4-wheel disc brakes and parts are readily available. You can find details of the conversion in my 51 rebuild thread. The diff I used was a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee diff with 3.73 & disc brakes, Dana 44HD-A. I would suggest staying away from the 44HD because it's an aluminum center section diff. I would suggest instead look for a Dana 44 from a Jeep. The jeep diff will require 1.5" wheel spacers if you're using the stock 51 wheels.

seldom an ashtray lighter or radio, but theyre damn cute. This one here is a members I believe