Leaderboard

Hmm, I guess we all have a different idea of what ready for assembly means. To me that means all the cleaning, painting, measuring etc is done. All that is needed is putting the parts in, That shouldn't take more than a day.

I took my time assembling my flathead engine. I checked and re-checked all my work. It was a first time flathead rebuild for me and I took it slow. I thoroughly enjoyed the process. I suppose a flat-rate mechanic back in the day would have done so many rebuilds, he could do it in a day. Not me. I did it when I had spare time. Between my full time job and honey-do lists. Everything that I was unsure of I stopped and researched. Even when I was sure it had it right, but didn’t grasp the why, I stopped and researched some more. I considered my engine to be a self taught correspondence course in flathead rebuilding. I learned a ton. If I recall I dragged the block home from the machine shop in about mid-June. I let it sit all summer. I believe I started reassembly in early Oct. i flashed it up about Jan 1 or so. A very memorable, enjoyable period in my life. Out to the shop to tinker and make a real man outta myself. Lol.

Do you have a friend thats done a re-assembly of an engine ? That would be a great help to you. Otherwise as stated above take your time and I'd measure all your clearances as you go. check this guys video.

It doesn't matter....it'll be finished when it is finished. If someone asks when it will be ready to run, just tell them "Thursday". No need to specify which Thursday. Enjoy your new engine!

since it's been sitting for a year you'll need to clean it again and inspect for flash rust on all the machined surfaces including the parts, tap all the threads again so your torque readings will be accurate. I'd suggest reading the service manual on the section you're working on, then watch the video which may make it easier to understand what he's showing and telling you. Take your time with it, enjoy it and learn from it. Don't worry about taking multiple days to assemble or how fast someone else can do it. There's very little in the car hobby that beats the sound of an engine you built yourself firing up for the first time.

Although I have never built a complete engine from scratch I will suggest that unless you trust the machine shop completely be sure you check that all the oil and coolant passages are clean and clear. You might already know this and thus can safely ignore my post but I felt it needed to be said

To the posters that recently purchased dead batteries from NAPA or any other company this is a very bad policy for their store and company. Since each battery has a manufacture date on the battery it is the direct responsibility of the store management to rotate their stock and to also verify the dates on the batteries. If they are not doing that process then they are not checking their supplies. I would write back to the headquarters of each company to let them know what is happening and then ask for a rebate because of having to take the first abtteryy back and then get a second replacement battery. Most companies want your repeat business so they might throw you a refund or a gift cert for your next purchase. I always keep a pulse battery charger on my 6v 1939 Desoto and this seems to make my batters last longer. But the seller should be always looking at the manufacture date prior to selling you a battery. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Thanks Sniper. I know I have a long road ahead. Brakes, fuel, glass, etc. The gas tank is my biggest concern. Haven’t researched it yet, but I don’t think it’s being reproduced. To fill it up, you have to tip the drivers seat forward. So I don’t think the truck tank will work. Anyway, I’m looking forward to getting it running and driving.

This just happened to me last week. Put a new NAPA Commercial 6v battery in my 38 sedan delivery. It hasn’t been started in 40+ years. Rebuilt the carburetor and distributer and hung a lawn mower gas tank under the hood. Stomped on the starter and after it turned over a few times it started and ran for 30 seconds. Got out and poured a little gas in the carb. Tried it again, and nothing. Wouldn’t even click. Pulled the battery back out and took it back to NAPA. He tested it and said it’s “dead, dead”. I also didn’t notice the label (sticker) on the battery said 8/22. It was 2 years old when I carried it out of the store.

additional information - flathead rebuild download

Nice find on that radiator. I’m at a standstill right now Kus I want a new one myself . I have been looking at the champion one to replace my old one before I get it restored.. but was hoping to find original without giving up a body part… so nice sir.

For my 51 Plymouth, Flaming River says it uses the same adapter as my 65 Cuda, which tells me that the Cuda's wheel should fit the 51's steering shaft. It also says it will fit your 49. By implication the Grant adapter for my 65 Cuda should also fit both our Plymouths. Now will it cover all the gaps and work with the horn button? that is the questions nor have I actually tried it.

The selector rod needs adjustment. That is the rod connected to the cam that moves the rod forward when the column shift lever is pulled back.