Leaderboard

They are different right to left. What size brakes do you have? Each size has a different spindle, that is 10 inch, 11 inch or 12 inch. I have a set of Plymouth 10 inch spindles I would donate for the shipping cost. For my cars I am changing over to Chrysler Windsor 12 inch brakes, so I have the “take offs” gathering dust.

I was referring to physics not emotional reasons for disconnecting the battery. The point was if there are residual drains in our old cars it could be beneficial to address them. The only exception I can think of is a clock, I don't know how they interface with the car, my P15 doesn't have one. Driving it is timeless.......

disconnecting the battery lead is going to hurt anything....the extra effort to do this if gives the owner peace of mind...go for it......I do mine also but it can be up to a dang year between drives and often more than 6 months between starts....the poor ole battery is just 15 years old.

once you polarize the unit there should not be further need unless you change major components or swap polarity.

That is probably the 110 freeway heading north. N Figueroa St is not a very long stretch of road. The 110 heads northeast from there to Pasadena passing the Dodger stadium along the way. 15 years ago I drove that stretch of road many times and I never saw any 55-57 Chevy's or Ford's on the road 😁

VINTAGEPIC: I spied a Route Van over on the FB

On my 1950 Dodge there is a slide the hold the the tumbler in.

I haven’t welded those rear frame connections yet. I keep changing my mind on how I want to do this. Also there is some additional tubing that needs to be worked onto this connection, where I reinforce the frame at the door sills. I decided that I really needed to work out the sub frame connections and brace the crossmembers. I have some odd stamped channels & light tubing that will do the job quite nicely. There you can see how the heavy steel brackets will bridge from the reinforced crossmember to the edge reinforcement channel on the back of the floor pan. (Where are the red magnets are.) Those landing pads need some big bolt holes in them and I don’t know exactly where they’re going to be. I know approximately, based on what the pan was like before I reshaped it and Welded up all the holes. But I think I’m going to put oversized holes in them on the drill press before they are welded in, and then I will use big flange nuts. The rear subframe rails will each get some sort of a reinforcement shoe on the on the forward end, which attaches with the flange nuts.

I basically change my oil and filter ever two years. Also I base this on the amt of driving that I have done. I have a 1939 Desoto that also has the bypass filter. The older oil can style stated that you could go 8k on an oil filter because it was a bypass filter and not a full flow filter like we have in our modern cars. I also replace my oil bath filter element with a NAPA paper element that fits perfectly in my air cleaner housing. I feel that since inmy area we do not have dirt roads and the old tar/chip roads the amt of dust and other air quality junk has lessened so I change the filter when it needs to be done and also blow out the filter every year. I also use the new Castrol GTX Classic that has a very high amt of ZDDP and it is a W20/50. This oil can NOT be used in a modern car becasue the modern cars have catalytic converters and this oil will destroy the converter. I know a couple of posters on the forum do not like the Castrol oil products but the oils of today even the Walmart brand is totally better than what was being used back in the 30-50's. I think the biggest issue is that you check the oil and the mileage and then make your our personal decision when to change oil and filter. I feel that both should be done together. The real big culprit if only starting your engine and not letting it get upto full operating temp and then radiator temp thermostat is not fully open the you get water and other acids building up in the oil pan which is not good for the car. So in the winter time if you start you are in your garage let the car fully warm up and get the temp to be above where the thermostat opens. At lot of people change the oil before putting the cars away for winter storage becasue the water and acid issues. some prefer to start the year with fresh oil every year, again a personal choice. Also at the end of the year is the perfect time to check all the fluid levels and to test the antifreeze quaity. In out older cars you should be usin ghte OLD GREEN AF that is labeled as INT inorganic and not the modern AF like the extended fomulas. You will have to look for the old green AF but the auto stores still carry this product. If you AF is still good and not showing any signs of turning brown and is still green I also dump in a bottle of Water Pump Lubricant and Anti-rusting agents. AF breaks down as it gets older and you start to loose the antirusting agents so that is why it turns brown. The protection of frezzing is still there but th einternal rusting chemicals have been depleated. Also make sure that you also have the correct style radiator cap. Some of the early cars used a non-pressure cap and then they started to go to pressure caps. If you over fill the radiator some of the systems will purge the extra fluid in the radiator. In my 39 Desoto which is non-pressure system the water level is approx 1 inch down from the top of the tank. Let you car determine what is best for your cooling system. Also time to check the battery fluid level and also take a reading of the electrolites in each cell. Most caps can still be removed, but do not overfill ech cell. The original rubber bulb filler has a small hole approx 1/4 inch above the end of the filler tube. This was there so that when tested the fluid it would suck out the extra fluid if it was overfilled. The new bulb do not have this over fill hole. I have a older document on batteries that describes this information. refer to the attachment. This info was taken from my Autolite Battery Manual Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Radio dry fit and fuse block mounted