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I read a study recently that claimed that humans eat more bananas than monkeys. For the life of me, I cant remember ever eating a monkey.

The plate needs to come off to surface it for sura as the FD coupling only has a forward bearing .... none at the rear to support the clutch driven plate that might need surfacing. It needs to be carefully removed while not damaging the bellows seal and graphite ring to surface it properly.......

My daughter, (knowing my interests), gave me some manuals this Christmas she had collected through the year .I will be adding them to my modest library of automotive literature. The U.S. Military Automotive manual is one that I have not yet read, although I am sure some of you on this forum are quite familiar with it...

Very nice! I'm sure the excitement is building more and more. One thing I'd like to mention is that the freeze plugs look like they have small, deep indentations. I've seen posts by other guys who left such a dimple in their freeze plugs, and it didn't properly expand the plug against the recess in the block, and the plug ended up falling out. The plugs should have a broader, somewhat shallower deformation (flattening of the initially curved surface). It could be an optical illusion caused by the photo, but I just wanted to caution you to keep an eye on those plugs. Conversely, I had a plug fall out of my engine, many years ago, because the machinist didn't flatten it enough. So it can't be too little or too much. There's a range of deformation that'll get you a good fit. And of course, you need to use sealant around the edges. I've read of some people using Permatex (not silicone), others who use JB Weld and others who use Indian Head gasket shellac (or other equivalent brand). I'm sure there are other types that can be used with success as well.

I've got new 7.00-16's on my one ton that I bought 2-3 yrs ago. As with any of the bias plys-they flatspot when sitting for any period of time, and round back out after a short drive.

nice...you will be chiming in now to help folks with parts numbers...….?

Kendall - I'm a Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute grad; B Arch '77. As my dad used to say about engineering school graduates: "Four years ago I couldn't spell "engineer", and today I are one!"

Moving forward wanted ads are going to be free. They will still run for 30 days and you will need to re-enter your ad when the original one expires. For sale ads are still $4.99 for 30 days and if the software works correctly (and I have it set up correctly ) you should be able to renew it without entering a new ad.

16 months later the engine is done. I think the shop needed some xmas money so the contacted me a month ago to let me know id be done before Xmas.

My oldest daughter made it home for Christmas. On a run into town she decided she wanted to try out the old whale. She was pretty proud of herself as was I. Mechanical things tend to petrify her. Made my day!

I like the D R A T but it would be better viewed in a rear view mirror...

If there are any rules, we break them. I'll be taking her now so she can take me later.

You're always welcome in Clements brother!....I mean, we let Mark in fur pete's sake. 48D

Gotta get on the soap box. Went to one car show w my 1 ton got parked in the back in the weeds-haven't been back since. I go to a fair amount of cruises, and am always accepted. Don't do car shows anymore. I don't care about trophies or awards-that's not why I'm in this. Truck shows are a whole lot more inviting. These things worked for a living and bear battle scars. Some are restored to nicer than new-mine will never be. I don't look as good as I did 40 yrs ago either. It's all about fun, camaraderie, and shooting the breeze. They can take the trophies and stick 'em. I've been to shows where there were more trophies than vehicles, and everyone got one (hmmm why does that seem familiar today)? Another pet peeve is charging the exhibitors upwards of $30 for the exhibitors, and spectators get in free???? How about no trophies, reasonable registration fees, and charging the folks that are coming to enjoy the show? Off soapbox now.

I prefer to think more of it as 'character' building....

just from the pictures, it looks like that engine is in decent shape. No broken rings, no scored journals babbitt looks good and the head gasket certainly shows no sign of leakage. Not all older engines had a seal in the back but instead relied on the slinger which is a good size on your crankshaft. Sometimes there were grooves in the babbitt to help excess oil drain back. The valve seat can have an insert put in it which is not a bad idea in any case. Good luck with it.

Camshaft driven generators were commonplace at this time. Buick had a cam driven generator with the distributor on the back of it followed by the water pump. Very neat but hard to service.. Your engine will likely have thick walled babbited inserts for the main bearings which can likely be re used. This engine shares no components with the later 25 inch engine . Water pumps were used on all Chrysler engines except the 4. Engine designs were advancing rapidly at this time. You will find your engine has very narrow application. The SAE publication Chrysler Engines 1922-1998 by Willem L Weertman will give you the whole story/